MILA-1 decent build pictures

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Kingston

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
3,716
Location
Helsinki, Finland
I built quite the MILA-1 preamp here. It should really be called MILA-2 because I've extended the features and ranges significantly. Max gain is about 80dB, way more than the original due to more relaxed output stage feedback range. The layout is an ultimate success. This is my first project where I don't see a trace of 50hz hum even at max gain looking at FFT plots. Careful planning, paranoid shielding of wires and lots and lots of mistakes in past projects finally paid off. Sturdy copper bus ground helps I guess. Power supply is a regulated (250V B+ and 12.6V heaters) brute force thingy, reminiscent of G9 with some (probably unnecessary) tweaks like additional RC networks.

Transformers are Cinemag CMMI-10C input, CM-9589L output.

MILA_front2_web.jpg

MILA_front1_web.jpg


I didn't test the feedback "range" switch before having the panels engraved and it actually goes to about +30dB, unfortunately not shown on the panel now. I actually didn't quite get why newyorkdave had intentionally limited the feedback range with the mere 3-way switch, and used the unnecessary parallel resistor configuration for the output feedback. 6-way double pole rotary switches are just as cheap, and one can easily extend the feedback range from 50k to no-feedback and anything in between.

And the overdrive is very controllable and good sounding this way. Maybe NYD only likes linear amplification.

One other thing I learned here: always laser fonts and graphics if you can. The graphic "wheels" around knobs show some engraving crud. I told the engraving guy to "cut corners and save time when you can" and that's the result. At least it only shows in pictures with a camera flash. Since this is anodised black panel, laser would have been ideal.

The reason for doing this type of "dual layer" front panel is because I can.

MILA_internals1_web.jpg

MILA_internals2_web.jpg


Those veroboard bits near front panel are input modules (pad, phantom and impedance switches). They don't belong on the thick turretboard and I was running out of space anyway. I used relays because I got paranoid about hum, not because I absolutely needed them.

Phantom PSU PCB is another veroboard slap-in module I did not yet wire in.

The layout was originally a bit nicer, but I found out about these awesome russian PIO caps after I had already build this. In they went, fitting just barely. Next project will have only PIO caps in the audio path. I don't care how big they are, they just sound so much better.

This is the best preamp I have ever heard. It's going to be hard for me to top this. It's probably going to have to be something quite exotic, maybe single ended output, and I'm ready to design my own from the ground up this time.

Mike


[edit]

I posted the turret board layout I used on this project somewhere else on the forum long a go. Obviously it should be linked here as well:
http://www.michaelkingston.fi/files/mila-1_turret_layout_kingston.pdf

That file was actually used as a drill template taped on the turret board. If you're going to do that make sure the paper is scaled to correct size for the caps.

[edit]

might as well collect all the documentation here.
The original schematic by NYD: http://groupdiy.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=38699.0;attach=23436
 
>>> Next project will have only PIO caps in the audio path.
Now you're an AUDIOPHILE.
 
The difference is, I can hear it, instead of imagine it. And can prove there's a real difference with an oscilloscope.

To my further defense, these russian PIO's are cheap and will last forever.
 
>>> In they went, fitting just barely.
In addition to being an AUDIOPHILE, you're bragging as well.
 
Panels look pretty good all in all
and i think anyone who finishes something
[ and without a pcb ] can be proud
too many of us are falling behind in the
" get it done " dept.    Bravo , nice work
 
Looks good! I know it has been kind of a contentious subject recently, but if you had time and were so inclined, I would be interested in hearing a comparison of a little feedback v. a lot of feedback. Best, Ben
 
"In addition to being an AUDIOPHILE, you're bragging as well."
i don't hear bragging, to me it's more the joy of sharing the results of a job well done.
congrats
 
riggler said:
Where did you get your PIO caps? I've seen them around on ebay. Looking for a US source that's not absurdly overpriced...

keywords "PIO cap" "russian PIO" will give you everything you need. They are all good, and work out to very similar prices as quality polypropylene caps. As far as I understood pretty much all of the ebay "stores" ship internationally with decent prices. They all seem to be from Ukraine. Lots of forgotten ex-soviet military surplus warehouses there I presume. I've ordered from a few and it's good service, all of them.
 
ubxf said:
i don't hear bragging, to me it's more the joy of sharing the results of a job well done.

"In they went, fitting just barely."

"""fitting just barely"""

[quote author=ubxf]it's very Manly[/quote]

 
Kingston said:
Power supply is a regulated (250V B+ and 12.6V heaters) brute force thingy, reminiscent of G9 with some (probably unnecessary) tweaks like additional RC networks.

Great post!  Congrats.  Inspiring.  I'd love to learn more about your RC filtering if you care to share...
:)

 
plumsolly said:
I would be interested in hearing a comparison of a little feedback v. a lot of feedback.

My file sharing skills are low. I had trouble with my webserver with these images alone.  :-[ I guess I need to buy more space, but no sound examples for now, sorry. It's just a distortion dial basically. The distortion is not nasty grain like 12AX7 very high gain tubes, which have rather abrupt saturation curves. 12AV7 in MILA is saturation that softly crunches up just right with, say highly dynamic vocal loud bits. works wonders if compressed after. Great smudge/softening effect on drum bus as well and needless to say it works best on bass. I'd say this type of distortion is the main reason we still use tubes. Surprising how few serious preamps feature this. I mean, it's damn easy to drive tubes to distortion, and it seems most preamp designs do everything there is to avoid it.

Next preamp I build (and the first I will design) will be somewhere in the middle ground between guitar amp (with tone stack!) and a clean preamp. If it takes a power soak, then so be it!

tommypiper said:
I'd love to learn more about your RC filtering if you care to share.

It's just 220 ohm (or was it 470) resistor to 220uF cap on B+ output. Chip regulators are not perfectly noiseless, and this erases the last bit of white noise from the otherwise clean regulator output. If you have a decent sound card and some FFT software you can watch the effect on max gain on some type of preamps.

[silent:arts] said:
(except of the handles)

Aww heck. I had to try, and you were right.

MILA-no-handles.jpg


Less busy this way. Thanks for the recommendation.

I was a step too much in this direction:

spoiler.jpeg
 
Perhaps you could try a simple capacitance multiplier as a HV power supply (maybe next time).

Some hints here:

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=38334.0
 
Yes, next time. KISS pattern. For a feedback based designs B+ regulation is unnecessary anyway. But since I wanted no-feedback option, I went with this "brute force" chip solution. That's all I knew half a year a go.
 
looks great. 

Kingston said:
Great smudge/softening effect on drum bus as well and needless to say it works best on bass. I'd say this type of distortion is the main reason we still use tubes. Surprising how few serious preamps feature this. I mean, it's damn easy to drive tubes to distortion, and it seems most preamp designs do everything there is to avoid it.

So true.  Virtually nothing you can buy off the shelf with low NFB.  I think the Manley preamps are 10 dB NFB at the lowest setting; much lower than most.  25+ dB NFB was the norm in pro gear by 1955.  RCA BC-2B console pre was low for it's time, at about 10 dB.    My 95 dB Gates units of 1947 have at least 30 dB NFB.  1955 on you get units that clip harshly, not quite as harsh as the next decades transistor gear, but not too far off.  All depends on if you want euphonic drive soft knee, or not, as to which type you like. 

I think NYDave was paying attention to all the criticism out there about how the tone changes with NFB change, and limiting the available steps the way Manley and some others do. 
 
Great job! I'm slowly gathering parts for a similar project, though I am sure it will not end up as nice as this.
 

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