Hello,
Nice Build.Hope You get Your Powersupply issues solved.
Just a few Thoughts.
If you have 160 Volts for the B+ Voltage, this results in 80 Volts Polarisationvoltage. If You use a Capsule that can take only 60 Volts , what are most Capsules excluding the original AKG and the Tim Campell TC 12 , the Diagram might get pulled into the Backplate. This happend to me with a Rk12 Type Capsule. Have a look here how to solve this Problem :
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=25597.0
or this:
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=51320.0
I have 2 double Powersupplys for my 2 Pairs of G7 s. With one Pair, I did the mod from the second Link, the other Powersupply give me 130 Volt B+ Voltage ,65 Volt for the Backplate, and 0/65/130 Volt polarisation Voltage for the rear Membran. This works also very good. The Sound of the different Pairs are not compareable because they have very different Capsules (Rk 12,Dale M7 ) and different Outputtrannys ( the beautifull Haufe that silentart offers in his Shop at the Whitemarket for the Rk12 and a vintage UTC O8 wired for 10:1 (15k:150 Ohm ) for the M7 equiped G7) Both Pairs sound fantastic but different.
I also bridged the 10kOhm Resistor in the B+ Line for the Polarisationvoltagestring. This gives You a better, more balanced Figure of 8 Pattern because without doing this Your Rear and Front Diagramms have little different Outputs,as they sit at different Voltages.
Do You have a spare,cheaper Ef 86 that You can install during testing? It would be a pitty if You blow Your beautifull Telefunken Silvershield .
Your Cathodebypasscap looks very small and cheap. I used Panasonic FC 220uf 35v.
I also enlarged the smoothingcondensers for the Heatersupply in the Powersupply to 22k uF and installed a 100 n Filmcap at the 7 pole Xlr for a Hf Filtering.
Condenser are cheap ourdays and I think its good to have a big Reservoir for the Heatercurrent.
Greetings and happy building.
Lothar