SB4000 Support Thread

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
this is the switch i am using

http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/KB16SKW01-12-GB-RO/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvxtGF7dlGNplnCu9XOiLP6OJOBSQYWOBA%3d

EDIT: Ok so i changed R141 to 10ohm to get 1A and the light now illuminates. Thanks for your help. Maybe you might be able to help me out on a problem i have over in the D-La2a Support thread?
 
jonathanmorbin said:
this is the switch i am using

http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/KB16SKW01-12-GB-RO/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvxtGF7dlGNplnCu9XOiLP6OJOBSQYWOBA%3d

EDIT: Ok so i changed R141 to 10ohm to get 1A and the light now illuminates.
The illumination in your switch is NOT done by a LED. Yours is a incandescent lamp rated at 12V 60mA. 
 
I'm trying to order the PCB and the Faceplate from Serpent audio, but their website seems to be off (for the shopping cart part…)

Are they still in business?
 
jonathanmorbin said:
this is the switch i am using

http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/KB16SKW01-12-GB-RO/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvxtGF7dlGNplnCu9XOiLP6OJOBSQYWOBA%3d

EDIT: Ok so i changed R141 to 10ohm to get 1A and the light now illuminates. Thanks for your help. Maybe you might be able to help me out on a problem i have over in the D-La2a Support thread?

You should not be running a lamp off of the main PCB, especially 1A!  The traces are not sized for this much current, it is designed for an LED, 20mA max, which is spec'd on the schematic, please read and don't randomly do things without understanding what you're doing, this is dangerous.  You are going to burn up your main pcb and power supply.  The 12V rail is not designed to be drawing this much current, it's probably blazing hot right now.  First off, you should put the propper resistor size for your lamp, which would be 200R for the rated 60mA.  If you insist on using a lamp based switch you should wire this over directly to the power supply, do not wire it to the main board.  The 12V regulator is probably going to start to get hot with an additional 40mA over what it was designed to, you'll probably need to move it off the power supply and provide additional heatsink.
 
Is there anyway to order a complete kit (components, PCB, hardware, chassis, faceplate, etc).

I'd thought this used to be an option on the Serpent site.
 
Hello all,

i have 2 questions...

In the begining of the month i was trying to buy the DIY Parts kit for this compressor, with the kit i had in my cart the Front Panel Combo
( FrontPanel+PCB ).
the website went down and i was some days waiting... now i want to buy and the Front Panel Combo don´t exist anymore on the store list.

Anyone knows anything about this?
Serpent Audio don´t do panels anymore?

great, king, best regards allll :eek:
 
Hey all,

A year and a half later, and I finally got around to building the SB4000 based off of Serpent's excellent kit. Working on the front panel, I seem to be missing the lorlin adapters for mounting the switches to the PCB. From what I can tell, these are mostly structural, lifting the switch a bit higher.

I can probably find a workaround using a generic PCB, but just wanted to double check here in case I'm missing something.

Thanks to everyone on this thread, it has been a great resource while building this kit.


 
Hi Guys,

Does anyone have an .xlsx version of the BOM on the first page of this thread?
 
Hi,

I need some help here...

I have a company that makes me the Front and Back Panels for this compressor... but he´s asking me for a  .DXF or .DWG file with all the information.

Can anyone help me with that? Seems that the parametal file is not enought for this...

Thanks all

King regards
 
Zirafa, Yes thats all they do for the threshold and gain pots.  Makes them level with the switches.  You could mount the pots to the front panel and wire them to the board if you're a little unsure.
 
Hi

I have two units 1st one lined up perfectly.

Second unit I can not calibrate the meter

  • Unit turned off - meter reads 0
  • Unit turned on- meter reads 1db of gain reduction (in bypass)

When I try and line up the meter I do not have enough play in the trim pot, when set at the lowest position with 10db of gain reduction I can only get the meter to show -12db of reduction.

The Trim pot is reading as 5K.  I have also checked R129 this value is correct.  I also tried swapping U16 TL074 swapping from the working unit.  I also tried the Meter from the other unit to rule this out of the fault.  Not fully understanding how this circuit works I am unsure where the problem might be occurring.

Any ideas of where to look next?

Both my units compress nicely however both units click when the release positions are switched.  This is acceptable level on the fully lined up unit.  on the unit which has metering issues it is louder.


Thanks
 
Hello! This is my first post in this forum. I’m reader, not a writer and most of the questions are already answered.

But for now I want to ask if Ruckus will ship the SB4000 PCB kit including the adapter PCBs for the Honeywell pots. If not, I have to order different pots.
I emailed Ruckus, but still got no answer. Maybe somebody else can answer this.

Greetings from Austria!
Assrael
 
assrael said:
I emailed Ruckus, but still got no answer.

I posted on this forum a month ago looking for some support, no replies.  I reposted again in the hope someone/Ruckus might answser.  For some reason it seems he is off Radar  (although is username does show recent activity) Other members do not seem to be into this project to offer support.  It is disappointing as normally the forum and white market sellers are great at offering advice.

 

 
hey guys! i have my sb4000 running since a year now, and it´s still fine. but in the last time i did more mastering. the ratio of 2 is mostly a bit to much. is there a easy way to change the ratio´s? for example: 1,5:1, 1,6:1 and 1,7:1 instead 2,4 and 10? thanx for the help and regards from munich!
 
Electrobumps said:
I posted on this forum a month ago looking for some support, no replies. 

This thread is living since September 2010. Hopefully it will not get an dead thread now.
I've ordered one week ago a PCB set from Ruckus. Got an order status message, but no response to my question. Let's wait...


solderboy said:
is there a easy way to change the ratio´s?

This is also interesting for me.
In my opinion it's only changing some resistors. But I do not know the math behind the circuit.
 
solderboy said:
or... has someone the schematic of the sb4001? there is a ratio of 1,5:1...

Take a look at the schema of Igor's Mixbuzz. There is a ratio of 1,5 and the values of the resistor network are very similar to the SB4000. I would say it is a good starting point to experiment with.
 
thanx assrael, good idea. i compared a bit... seem´s i can change the ratio 2 to 1,5:1... 4 to 2:1... but 10... i am not shure... someone an idea?
 
Need opinions on VCA options. I bought some vintage DBX VCA packs on ebay.... while having a small beer... well a few beers. Didn't pay close enough attention to the description/package and wound up with two DBX 207 VCAs. I believe these are interchangeable with the DBX 202s, but not sure. What are the expert opinions out there?

DBX 202
DBX 207
Quad THAT modules

Thanks
 
Mrosso said:
Need opinions on VCA options. I bought some vintage DBX VCA packs on ebay.... while having a small beer... well a few beers. Didn't pay close enough attention to the description/package and wound up with two DBX 207 VCAs. I believe these are interchangeable with the DBX 202s, but not sure. What are the expert opinions out there?

DBX 202
DBX 207
Quad THAT modules
The 207s are not VCAs, they are RMS detectors.
When searching for these ancient VCA modules (for whatever reason), pay close attention to the following letter(s), IE 202,202C,202R,202X,202XL,202XT,202XTC,2001,2002,2002N,2002R,2002T,2002T1. They are not interchangeable without circuit adaption.
 
Back
Top