dagoose
Well-known member
Forum is back online, time for a new post with some nice pics of a nice EQ box! 
http://www.dagoosemusic.nl/diy/nite/ << more pics here!
http://www.dagoosemusic.nl/diy/nite/ << more pics here!
finished nite EQ3d (pics inside)
- Thread starter dagoose
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
3nity
Well-known member
Very Nice...Looking forward to star mine but way to for that.
:thumb:
:thumb:
khstudio
Well-known member
KILLER! :thumb:
Love the Faceplate.
How did you deal with the POT's Center not being correct?
I have those same pots & I know their off quite a bit. :sad:
Love the Faceplate.
How did you deal with the POT's Center not being correct?
I have those same pots & I know their off quite a bit. :sad:
dagoose
Well-known member
[quote author="khstudio"]KILLER! :thumb:
Love the Faceplate.
How did you deal with the POT's Center not being correct?
I have those same pots & I know their off quite a bit. :sad:[/quote]
thanks!
I'd have to check with the pots, i also noticed that 0 is not really center position, maybe i'll try to add some ressistors to the pot to center it.
I'll keep you posted about that (though i don't think it's a real problem)
Love the Faceplate.
How did you deal with the POT's Center not being correct?
I have those same pots & I know their off quite a bit. :sad:[/quote]
thanks!
I'd have to check with the pots, i also noticed that 0 is not really center position, maybe i'll try to add some ressistors to the pot to center it.
I'll keep you posted about that (though i don't think it's a real problem)
dagoose
Well-known member
To all about the case: I think it's better and cheaper to order the pursusha case, mine was about 160 euro's in total (case and engraving) so Purusha is cheaper and easier.
MartyMart
Well-known member
Looks gorgeous !!
Marty.
Marty.
khstudio
Well-known member
[quote author="dagoose"][quote author="khstudio"]KILLER! :thumb:
Love the Faceplate.
How did you deal with the POT's Center not being correct?
I have those same pots & I know their off quite a bit. :sad:[/quote]
thanks!
I'd have to check with the pots, i also noticed that 0 is not really center position, maybe i'll try to add some ressistors to the pot to center it.
I'll keep you posted about that (though i don't think it's a real problem)[/quote]
It's been discussed before but you can't
Love the Faceplate.
How did you deal with the POT's Center not being correct?
I have those same pots & I know their off quite a bit. :sad:[/quote]
thanks!
I'd have to check with the pots, i also noticed that 0 is not really center position, maybe i'll try to add some ressistors to the pot to center it.
I'll keep you posted about that (though i don't think it's a real problem)[/quote]
It's been discussed before but you can't
They're too far off.
Greg
Well-known member
Kevin:
Which pots work correctly?
Which pots work correctly?
kato
Well-known member
Beautiful work - especially the case.
Probably well worth the money for a one-of-a-kind piece of gear.
What are the tall blue film caps?
I've seen them in some of my gear but they're unbranded. I wonder what type they are.
Probably well worth the money for a one-of-a-kind piece of gear.
What are the tall blue film caps?
I've seen them in some of my gear but they're unbranded. I wonder what type they are.
khstudio
Well-known member
[quote author="Greg"]Kevin:
Which pots work correctly?[/quote]
The only ones I know of being correct are the ones used in the Original...
Bourns.
ANY pot that reads about 47k to 52k (or so) will be good.
In the original thread, when I was first putting this project together, I measured the original pots & postd their center points.
It was discussed in length & I don't recall exact details... but from memory:
about 47k to 52k for the center point.
Also, ANY pot (with the correct resistance & taper) will work but you'll have to find the center point (aprox 50k) spot with a meter, mark it, then put your knob on (12 O'Clock position)
You'll loose a little adjustment (at the TOP with the Alpha pots from Small Bear) but should still have plenty of range (probably the same)
I used these same pots in mine but never finished the complete unit... so I haven't dug into YET. But it works great... Very much like my original EQ3D. Except the center point of the Alphas are around 70k - 80k. :sad:
The BOURNS Pots are more expensive & you need to buy at least 50 to 100... I guess we could have done a Group Buy.
IMO, the pots are the ONLY thing that's a PITA with this build... still, it sounds the "Same". :wink:
Which pots work correctly?[/quote]
The only ones I know of being correct are the ones used in the Original...
Bourns.
ANY pot that reads about 47k to 52k (or so) will be good.
In the original thread, when I was first putting this project together, I measured the original pots & postd their center points.
It was discussed in length & I don't recall exact details... but from memory:
about 47k to 52k for the center point.
Also, ANY pot (with the correct resistance & taper) will work but you'll have to find the center point (aprox 50k) spot with a meter, mark it, then put your knob on (12 O'Clock position)
You'll loose a little adjustment (at the TOP with the Alpha pots from Small Bear) but should still have plenty of range (probably the same)
I used these same pots in mine but never finished the complete unit... so I haven't dug into YET. But it works great... Very much like my original EQ3D. Except the center point of the Alphas are around 70k - 80k. :sad:
The BOURNS Pots are more expensive & you need to buy at least 50 to 100... I guess we could have done a Group Buy.
IMO, the pots are the ONLY thing that's a PITA with this build... still, it sounds the "Same". :wink:
dagoose
Well-known member
[quote author="khstudio"][quote author="Greg"]Kevin:
Which pots work correctly?[/quote]
The only ones I know of being correct are the ones used in the Original...
Bourns.
ANY pot that reads about 47k to 52k (or so) will be good.
In the original thread, when I was first putting this project together, I measured the original pots & postd their center points.
It was discussed in length & I don't recall exact details... but from memory:
about 47k to 52k for the center point.
Also, ANY pot (with the correct resistance & taper) will work but you'll have to find the center point (aprox 50k) spot with a meter, mark it, then put your knob on (12 O'Clock position)
You'll loose a little adjustment (at the TOP with the Alpha pots from Small Bear) but should still have plenty of range (probably the same)
I used these same pots in mine but never finished the complete unit... so I haven't dug into YET. But it works great... Very much like my original EQ3D. Except the center point of the Alphas are around 70k - 80k. :sad:
The BOURNS Pots are more expensive & you need to buy at least 50 to 100... I guess we could have done a Group Buy.
IMO, the pots are the ONLY thing that's a PITA with this build... still, it sounds the "Same". :wink:[/quote]
That's a good one to measure the 47k and mark it and use that as the centerpoint for the knobs.
But i think it should be possible in some kind of way to do some 'things' with resistors to get 47k at the REAL centre of the pots isn't it?
Didn't actually check for the zero adjust so far (just played around a bit), if it sounds good it's cool with me and the nite EQ sounds really good to me :grin:
Which pots work correctly?[/quote]
The only ones I know of being correct are the ones used in the Original...
Bourns.
ANY pot that reads about 47k to 52k (or so) will be good.
In the original thread, when I was first putting this project together, I measured the original pots & postd their center points.
It was discussed in length & I don't recall exact details... but from memory:
about 47k to 52k for the center point.
Also, ANY pot (with the correct resistance & taper) will work but you'll have to find the center point (aprox 50k) spot with a meter, mark it, then put your knob on (12 O'Clock position)
You'll loose a little adjustment (at the TOP with the Alpha pots from Small Bear) but should still have plenty of range (probably the same)
I used these same pots in mine but never finished the complete unit... so I haven't dug into YET. But it works great... Very much like my original EQ3D. Except the center point of the Alphas are around 70k - 80k. :sad:
The BOURNS Pots are more expensive & you need to buy at least 50 to 100... I guess we could have done a Group Buy.
IMO, the pots are the ONLY thing that's a PITA with this build... still, it sounds the "Same". :wink:[/quote]
That's a good one to measure the 47k and mark it and use that as the centerpoint for the knobs.
But i think it should be possible in some kind of way to do some 'things' with resistors to get 47k at the REAL centre of the pots isn't it?
Didn't actually check for the zero adjust so far (just played around a bit), if it sounds good it's cool with me and the nite EQ sounds really good to me :grin:
khstudio
Well-known member
No, it's not... at least with these pots, they're too far off & in the wrong direction... Adding resistance will only increase the already too high center point. There is a 5.6k in series with the pots but removing it won't be enough either.
It's ALL been discussed before so you'll have to search the BIG thread & see why.
HARPO mentioned changing the gain of the actual IC's to compensate but this seem like a lot of work compared to centering the KNOB.
khstudio
Well-known member
[quote author="jeth"]I have no idea, just an outside guess, but could it not be possible to parallel resistors across the pot to move the center in the opposite direction to putting the resistors in series?[/quote]
:idea: That may be a good idea... I have a feeling that may have also been discussed but I can't say for sure.
Maybe someone else can chime in on this one. :idea:
:idea: That may be a good idea... I have a feeling that may have also been discussed but I can't say for sure.
Maybe someone else can chime in on this one. :idea:
Harpo
Well-known member
[quote author="khstudio"][quote author="jeth"]I have no idea, just an outside guess, but could it not be possible to parallel resistors across the pot to move the center in the opposite direction to putting the resistors in series?[/quote]
:idea: That may be a good idea... I have a feeling that may have also been discussed but I can't say for sure.
Maybe someone else can chime in on this one. :idea:
Don't think so, but YMMV.
The pot is part of Rin of the summing stage around U5 with feedback resistor R30, actually set to 56.2k.
Paralleling any value to it will bring the total resistance of this pot down with the drawback to loose decreasing values and a different pot bending law.
This stage has a voltage gain with pot ccw of -AV=Rfb / (Rpot + Rseries)= 56k2/(500k+5k62) = 0.111 = -19.1dB and pot cw of -AV=56k2/(0k+5k62) = 10 = +20dB.
The required pot value at center for 0dB in this stage with the given values would be Rfb - Rseries = 50k6.
Increase Rfb to (your pot value at center + Rseries) where Rseries = 1/10th of Rfb and you are there.
Have a look at (unproven paperwork, so someone might doublecheck or try) this Excel sheet , so worst case will be changing 6 resistors (hopefully less).
-Harpo
edit: see following note
:idea: That may be a good idea... I have a feeling that may have also been discussed but I can't say for sure.
Maybe someone else can chime in on this one. :idea:
[/quote]
Don't think so, but YMMV.
The pot is part of Rin of the summing stage around U5 with feedback resistor R30, actually set to 56.2k.
Paralleling any value to it will bring the total resistance of this pot down with the drawback to loose decreasing values and a different pot bending law.
This stage has a voltage gain with pot ccw of -AV=Rfb / (Rpot + Rseries)= 56k2/(500k+5k62) = 0.111 = -19.1dB and pot cw of -AV=56k2/(0k+5k62) = 10 = +20dB.
The required pot value at center for 0dB in this stage with the given values would be Rfb - Rseries = 50k6.
Increase Rfb to (your pot value at center + Rseries) where Rseries = 1/10th of Rfb and you are there.
Have a look at (unproven paperwork, so someone might doublecheck or try) this Excel sheet , so worst case will be changing 6 resistors (hopefully less).
-Harpo
edit: see following note
khstudio
Well-known member
Thanks Harpo :thumb:
Harpo
Well-known member
In case you change Rfb, you also should change R48 (actually 56.2k) to the same value as Rfb, so voltage gain is set to -AV=1=0dB when switched to bypass.
If the excel sheet is of any use, Kevin might put this file in his folder to keep things together.
-Harpo
If the excel sheet is of any use, Kevin might put this file in his folder to keep things together.
-Harpo
lookn4tone
Well-known member
Hey dagoose
Looks awesome. What poly caps did you use and how does it sound?
Has anyone done a comparrison with different caps? The WIMAs are expensive for this project (And which ones are you supposed to use anyway? It's all pretty confusing if you ask me). I'm inclined to use the Panasonics that Kevin used, but don't want to have to recap it if something better (clearly a better choice) is available.
Again, very, very excellent build!
Steve
Looks awesome. What poly caps did you use and how does it sound?
Has anyone done a comparrison with different caps? The WIMAs are expensive for this project (And which ones are you supposed to use anyway? It's all pretty confusing if you ask me). I'm inclined to use the Panasonics that Kevin used, but don't want to have to recap it if something better (clearly a better choice) is available.
Again, very, very excellent build!
Steve
dagoose
Well-known member
[quote author="lookn4tone"]Hey dagoose
Looks awesome. What poly caps did you use and how does it sound?
Has anyone done a comparrison with different caps? The WIMAs are expensive for this project (And which ones are you supposed to use anyway? It's all pretty confusing if you ask me). I'm inclined to use the Panasonics that Kevin used, but don't want to have to recap it if something better (clearly a better choice) is available.
Again, very, very excellent build!
Steve[/quote]
Hi steve!
Thanks!
I think it sounds great, really smooth highs and stuff but ofcourse i haven't got different caps to compare.
I used caps from RS, partnr. 823-998, i ordered different ones before but they where HUGE so i had to reorder, i think Wima's are also to big to fit in case of the 1uf caps.
Still happy with the result though i wouldn't choose orange engraving on a silver panel anymore, it's quite hard to read with bad lightning, i think a black panel with orange engraving is cooler.
Looks awesome. What poly caps did you use and how does it sound?
Has anyone done a comparrison with different caps? The WIMAs are expensive for this project (And which ones are you supposed to use anyway? It's all pretty confusing if you ask me). I'm inclined to use the Panasonics that Kevin used, but don't want to have to recap it if something better (clearly a better choice) is available.
Again, very, very excellent build!
Steve[/quote]
Hi steve!
Thanks!
I think it sounds great, really smooth highs and stuff but ofcourse i haven't got different caps to compare.
I used caps from RS, partnr. 823-998, i ordered different ones before but they where HUGE so i had to reorder, i think Wima's are also to big to fit in case of the 1uf caps.
Still happy with the result though i wouldn't choose orange engraving on a silver panel anymore, it's quite hard to read with bad lightning, i think a black panel with orange engraving is cooler.
