what size drill for tapping an M1.6 thread ?

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Junction said:
Rob, its been like 20 years since I have been tapping holes for a living, but trying to visualise in my head, but turn that sucker in 1 turn clockwise and then back it off anti-clockwise half a turn to break off the swarf and then continue like that all the way through, 1 turn forward, 1/2 a turn back. If you just try to plough through without the forward/ back approach, thats when you will either break the tap or tear up the thread.

Maybe one of you other "ginger beers" would like to comment, but this forward/back process is the way to go.

Michael

Yes, I remember this from school, & plenty of lubricant !
 
Yes, anything 2mm or less is a bugger - as I reminded myself again this week. I don't mind the broken tool so much as the pain of getting the broken tap end out of the job.

(For some reason aluminium seems particularly good at snagging small taps, despite it being soft.)
 
And...

The other thing that breaks hand taps is not going in perpendicular to the work. You might want to make an alignment jig from a scrap of metal, with a hole the size of the thread to push up against the surface of the work.

Where possible, I put bigger taps in my lathe (without power) so I can align them.
 
Gold said:
abbey road d enfer said:
In one of my first jobs, we bought a tapping contraption that was installed in the dril press. There was an automatic reverse; whenever you stopped pressing, the tap would reverse at low speed. Apparently, this doesn't exist anymore; it seems it's much cheaper buying an automatic tap machine...
Like this? http://www.mcmaster.com/#tapping-heads/=hrxcyy
Yes, that's exactly it. Less expensive than I thought.
 
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