External PSU connector for 250V and 48V

@jdbakker.  Thanks for the links, I guess I am the THIRD person to start this thread, but I really did search first.

@tubegeek . Thanks for the idea... I use those for low voltage too, but they are kind of a pain primarily because there does not seem to be such a thing as a "chassis mount" female of any of them.

They lock, can't get confused with XLR, but inside of the termination housing is tiny, and it is 250V DC so I am not comfortable with it.


I like the idea of the stuff that is rated for a lot more voltage, and check out this TEE http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/18/P29310-34777.pdf, with that I only need to put one outlet on the PSU and I can daisychain power them.  I am going to order up a set and see how substantial they are, they look pretty solid.

bruce0 said:

but they are kind of a pain primarily because there does not seem to be such a thing as a "chassis mount" female of any of them.

Click to expand...

It's always something, isn't it? I suppose the thing to do would be to put a bleeder in the chassis to keep it from holding onto high voltage for very long, and then just go with chassis/male, cable/female.

I just can't stomach the kinds of prices for the "real" connectors, but of course, you do get what you pay for sometimes.... Keep an eye out for surplus (you and everyone else, though!)

tubegeek said:

bruce0 said:

but they are kind of a pain primarily because there does not seem to be such a thing as a "chassis mount" female of any of them.

Click to expand...

It's always something, isn't it? I suppose the thing to do would be to put a bleeder in the chassis to keep it from holding onto high voltage for very long, and then just go with chassis/male, cable/female.

Click to expand...

Wow!  I am not sure you understand what I meant by a safety question.  I feel a need to have the PSU have a female shrouded connector.

I think the mini-boss stuff is probably best for me.  And it is relatively cheap.  Female and Male recepticals are $8 each or so, and pre-made cables with ends are $13 for 1 meter, $18 for 3 meter and daisychainable.  All machined aluminum, I am ordering some.

The only expensive and hard to find part is the "TEE" connector.  Which is not strictly necessary  but is kind of cool.

I will post pics when I get them.

I like this style, it is possible to disassemble them to change gender--but tricky--spanner nuts and snap rings involved.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Military-Gold-5-Pin-Twist-Male-Female-Connector-F5P-/180738949396?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a14e18114

they seem fairly robust, cannot be confused with xlr, and with lower pin count there is more clearance/insulation between pins...there are multiple pin configurations available, so one can avoid plugging in the wrong p.s.
-I have also 'keyed' these by swapping a set of contact pins between male-fem.

for the power supply end  save your monies and go permanent teather

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-HEYCO-M3207-Liquid-Tight-Strain-Relief-Cordgrip-Cord-Grips-w-locknut-/221185635734?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337fb0f596

put diodes at the load device to minimize stored dc sneaking out the back

Lemo B or K series

They are the same pins but K is waterproof and a bit more 'stamp proof'.

I don't want to use a permanent cord, even properly wired and grommet protected because I want no possibility of someone tripping over it and pulling 250V free of ground or chassis.

Here is what I ordered (updated receptacle order - I got the wrong part initially):

"Amphenol Sine systems factory automation" miniboss stuff.

Comes in 3, 4 or 5 conductor - 16AWG cables, 600VDC rated.

I will use 4 conductors (Chassis, Ground, 48V and 250V)

From the PSU I will daisy chain different rack mount outboard tube gear. Tube heaters in series on the 48V. PSU will hold  100mA of 250V and 1A of 48V power one open frame PSU's.

I will have 1 female receptacle on the PSU, and Males on both the outboards, and I can daisy chain 2 or maybe 3 units through the TEE's, it will cable neatly, and easily.  Connectors are machined aluminum (minium) and don't fit XLR, and they are pretty cheap in low quantity especially if you take into account assembly, neatness and quality issues.

Male Receptacles are $6.95 ea (wired)
Female Receptacles are $8.69 eac (wired) -
    (BE CAREFUL  these come in both Internal and External threads - I initially bought the wrong threads)
Pre-made 1 Meter cables are $12.49 (16 AWG assembled with Male and Female connectors (3 meters are only $16.10))

TEE was $16.29 (only needed to power multiple boxes in a daisy chain)

Daisy chaining with TEE's make it a bit more, but really make the back of the rack wiring a lot neater.




TEE

Pre-Assembled cables Male Female

Pre-Assembled Recept.

bruce0 said:

Wow!  I am not sure you understand what I meant by a safety question.  I feel a need to have the PSU have a female shrouded connector.

Click to expand...

Not your fault, I wasn't clear what I meant.

PSU: permanently attached cable with a female/cable connector
Device: equipped with a bleeder and a male/chassis connector.

You are correct that that's not the 100% exactly safest possible arrangement, but it could be a reasonable compromise.

I got the MiniBoss Amphenol Sine connectors and cable today.  They are beautiful connectors. The connectors are a tough plastic, molded with cables, and the "ring like" components that screw together on each half of the connector are machined aluminum (ium).

The receptacles have the lead wires potted in a shiny rubber on the back side, terminal contacts are gold plated.  Cables are light and flexible (16AWG internally) and overall dimensions are smaller than I thought they would be.  It is going to be very easy to put together because the most of the connections are already made, all I will have to do is punch the cases, and terminate the leads on the PSU and boards.

Very happy with the choice, 1 meter length is nice for my rack, will add pictures when I complete assembly, but in general a nice choice I think for high voltage connections.

One caution:  You need to be careful to order the correct thread gender on the receptacles. The female receptacles come with either Internal or External threads.  The internal threads work with the pre-assembled cords.  (Just be careful with MN44 vs MN42 parts).