tcookc

Re: Open source project: "Generic" Shoeps-style microphone PCBs on Osh Park
« Reply #60 on: February 26, 2020, 02:13:45 PM »
You can always consult the original Schoeps schematic if you aren't sure about something on this schematic http://recordinghacks.com/microphones/Schoeps/CMC-5
Very cool, thanks!

Those diodes aren't always used in this type of mic and there's more than one part that could go there if they do get used.
Okay so I should use a 6.2V zener like TZX6V2D-TAP then. But different components would work as well...is there a different component that would be better? I certainly have no need to recreate the original for any reason.

there's 10 resistors of that value in the cart. That should be enough to find a pair close to 0.1%.
Sounds like something I need to learn how to do!  :P

Reread the PMs I sent you last week. I explained what parts are associated with the pad and HPF.
In your PM you said I could leave out C1 and leave out "one resistor" but you don't say which R. You also mention removing the 1G resistor. Should I remove/jump R1 and R11? And can I forego the pad and hpf trimmers?

Attached is an image of the PCB design for what I'm planning based on my current understanding of what you've said. Please let me know where I've gone wrong, and thanks again! <3
[Edit: The image below shows R1 jumped but that's a mistake, I have R1 installed].
« Last Edit: March 09, 2020, 11:28:20 PM by tcookc »


tcookc

Re: Open source project: "Generic" Shoeps-style microphone PCBs on Osh Park
« Reply #61 on: February 26, 2020, 02:53:54 PM »
Oh and I was also planning on jumping R4 and R5 but don't have that shown in the image I attached.

tcookc

For anyone still interested, my PCBs arrived this weekend and I've just finished a successful build using midwayfair's linked PCBs and most of the BOM (I replaced some resistors and caps with Dale and Wima ones that I had left over from a previous project). I also left out R11 and C1, and jumped R4 and R5. I also did not included pad or hpf switches. I currently have it in a BM800 body but it's VERY tight. This first build uses the LEDs for D4-6, but for build #2 I am planning on trying the 12v D3 with D4/5 jumped and the 470 C9, just out of curiosity.
[edit: I originally left out R1 but now do have the 1G at R1. The mic was fairly noisy at first but is very quite now with R1 installed.]

So far I haven't done much but talk into the mic to verify that it's working, but it sure sounds crisp! Looking forward to putting it to use.
« Last Edit: March 09, 2020, 11:26:24 PM by tcookc »

midwayfair

For anyone still interested, my PCBs arrived this weekend and I've just finished a successful build using midwayfair's linked PCBs and most of the BOM (I replaced some resistors and caps with Dale and Wima ones that I had left over from a previous project). I also left out R1, R11 and C1, and jumped R4 and R5. I also did not included pad or hpf switches. I currently have it in a BM800 body but it's VERY tight. This first build uses the LEDs for D4-6, but for build #2 I am planning on trying the 12v D3 with D4/5 jumped and the 470 C9, just out of curiosity.

So far I haven't done much but talk into the mic to verify that it's working, but it sure sounds crisp! Looking forward to putting it to use.

Thanks for the extra verification :)
I'm Jon. Myself's music and things I make: jonpattonmusic.com. My band: www.midwayfair.org. [Disclaimer: PCBs of guitar pedals I've designed are sold by Madbean, 1776 Effects, and JMK PCBs.]

tcookc

Image attached of two of three of the finished builds.

They're in BM700 bodies, which can be found for $15 including a surprisingly nice shockmount on amazon and aliexpress. The bodies are metal and feel nice. I also like the heavy brass Aurycle bodies, but these are close to half the size and much lighter AND way cheaper. If you want it to fit in a BM700, you'll have to sand down the edges of both boards a bit, or make the board more narrow in Eagle if you know how.
The BM700 rail screws/holes are 31mm apart and use M2.2 screws. I had my as-is boards tied down to the rails with trimmed leads, but it proved unreliable and now they're just super-glued to the rails  :-[
If I make more I will definitely have to figure out how to modify the board a bit in eagle.

I'm using various Rayking capsules from alibaba and couldn't quite say which one I prefer. I haven't used them too much to be honest but would say I generally prefer their more open sounding edge-terminated style. This weekend  I've been using one side-by-side with my beloved MP S-12 which has a similar circuit and expensive MP capsule. They sound incredibly similar.