PCB making kit questions...

My Nokia has a timer function but only in crude 1 minute increments. Often you want to time your exposure in smaller increments especially if you're using shortwave UV. The stopwatch function works well but no way to set an aural alarm. A simple digital cooking timer would be good.

Blue Gatorade - I used to call it "Scope" flavor. Looks just like the mouthwash to me...

I only make one-offs, the circuits are usually relatively simple, small (<8X10), one sided and designed by myself, so I use the following method. It's quick and dirty and the boards aren't pretty, but they work.

I draw the traces by hand with a Sharpie marker onto the copper clad board. Make sure the board is clean and grease free prior, and try not to touch the copper with fingers. Put the marker on as thick as possible, as it is the resist.

I etch with ferric chloride in a porcelean or plastic tray. It can be heated with a hair dryer if necessary to speed things up (here in Arizona in the summer I just do it outside). When the board is etched, the marker is removed in running water with one of those green dishwashing thingies, and voila, there's the PCB ready for drilling and stuffing.

I keep the used etchant in a plastic bleach type container that I'm going to will to my environmentalist daughter to dispose of.

Yes the Group DIY page is still alive for the time being.

CJ's plastic tank is the go. You should be able to find this in various form all around the world. Get TWO of them ... one for develop and one for etch. Recycle the chemicals as best as possible. I have a number of bottle (as supplied with the develop) with develop at different stages of life.

I DON'T use the heaters so you can save money there. Boil water in the kettle just as you are about to etch. BE CAREFUL to have a little cold water in the bottom with the persulphate because the plastic will warp with just boiled water so let it cool a bit first.

The heat will remain more than long enough to get the boards etched if you are prepared first. You will need to change the solution by the time it cools anyway.

CJ's light box shows that you can make one. I have tried lights up in the lid and lights down underneath. I use positive exposure and the way that Protel prints and the Farnell PCB is such that I think I like the lights down in the box.

I expose for between 3.5 to 4.5 minutes depending on the plastic transparency I used. The frosty tracing paper I use for A3 PCBs need the longer exposure ... and obviously are done in my BIG tanks.
The very clear needs only 3.5 to 4 ... ink jet printer is slightly better black than my laser ... mostly I think I'm around 3m 50sec at the moment
added info ....
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/kalex/prod02.htm
I get my persulphate here and some other PCB things.
and I did buy some of their drills.

Light boxes in different sizes
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/kalex/prod02.htm
Etch Tank with heater
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/kalex/prod03.htm
BUT many places have this without the heater .... cheap ... you do want the fishtank air pump. The air is good

Cutting is the biggest problem.
I have a sensational guillotine but it is wearing out and I will need to replace it .... very expensive. The one in the RS catalog is the best I have used but SO EXPENSIVE.
need to do some experiments with the larger paper guillotines.
I make a lot of PCBs
obviously I do much more in this feil than just what you see at the GrpDIY page or at my site so just because I have a hugh investment in PCB gear doesn't mean you should. Once my building works are complete the Melbourne boys will be welcome to come and used the facilities ... that goes for the metal work stuff as well.

Get a PCB etch pen !!! ... for touch-ups before the board goes in the etch.

we love our diy

I just finished my first batch of Pcb's
here is some information that might help others.

start to finish pcb with options
http://www1.electusdistribution.com.au/images_uploaded/pcboarde.pdf

this one has photos and will hold your hand for the entire process
http://web.media.mit.edu/~ladyada/resources/inhouseetch.html


I built the light box on kev's website ($150.00 us)
http://recording.org/users/kev/HowtoPCB.htm

but, here is an inexpensive exposure bulb ($12.00 us)
http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p54.htm


I use a dremel + dremel drill press (appx 100.00)
http://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/drillprs.html

but, here is an inexpensive alternative ($13.00 us)
http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p55.htm


Here is a store bought etch tank ($ 31.00 us)
http://www.web-tronics.com/lowcospcbets.html

and a diy alternative
http://www.electronics-lab.com/articles/tupper_tank/

or even less expensive
a plastic tray that you rock by hand

for developer I used a plastic tray


Drill bits
I broke 2 drillbits making one pcb so far. That's why I recomend
resharpened drill bits @ drill bit city
http://www.store.yahoo.com/drillcity/
about $5 a pack


I am trying to do my part.
This is as far as I have been in the diy scene
Hope this helps
Patina

I just finished my first batch of Pcb's
here is some information that might help others.

start to finish pcb with options
http://www1.electusdistribution.com.au/images_uploaded/pcboarde.pdf

this one has photos and will hold your hand for the entire process
http://web.media.mit.edu/~ladyada/resources/inhouseetch.html


I built the light box on kev's website ($150.00 us)
http://recording.org/users/kev/HowtoPCB.htm

but, here is an inexpensive exposure bulb ($12.00 us)
http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p54.htm


I use a dremel + dremel drill press (appx 100.00)
http://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/drillprs.html

but, here is an inexpensive alternative ($13.00 us)
http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p55.htm


Here is a store bought etch tank ($ 31.00 us)
http://www.web-tronics.com/lowcospcbets.html

and a diy alternative
http://www.electronics-lab.com/articles/tupper_tank/

or even less expensive
a plastic tray that you rock by hand

for developer I used a plastic tray


Drill bits
I broke 2 drillbits making one pcb so far. That's why I recomend
resharpened drill bits @ drill bit city
http://www.store.yahoo.com/drillcity/
about $5 a pack


I am trying to do my part.
This is as far as I have been in the diy scene
Hope this helps
Patina

oh I forgot
I cut my pcb's with tin snips

one trick i always do is to make two transparencies, place them on top of each other and tape them together. i had problems before doing it this way.

I found vellum works WAY better than transparencies-both in the printer and in clarity of the PCB. Plus I get them at a local paper store for $.10 a sheet. Cheaper than transparencies too!

Joel

I was dish out for a manufactured Exposing lamp setup but now I'm gonna try these and a buch o scrap wood.

http://www.bulbamerica.com/products/516



And a Dark Room Timer