I bought two of Tommytones PCB kits from a member from Sweden about a year ago in the black market.
Four months ago I started populating the boards. Due to some time constrains I could not get back to them the last two months.
This is how they look actually:
http://twin-x.com/groupdiy/displayimage.php?pid=5510
http://twin-x.com/groupdiy/displayimage.php?pid=5509
The Op-Amps are already tested and confirmed working...
@ 69er:
For wiring use AWG22 in multiple colors (important).
On the Gain switch you will need shielded cable. Use some RG316 here.
Get the AMS 1081 Technical Manual
Issue 3 and ignore the documentation from Tommy-tones. Also ignore the print on top of the PCB - use the drawing in the AMS doc instead.
For Transistors use these replacements:
BC184c = BC550
C
BC214kc = BC560
C
BC441 = 2n3053 (can be the Type 'A' but the ones without suffix are OK for the 340)
BC461 =2n2905 (can be the Type 'A' but the ones without suffix are OK for the 340)
I never tested BD139 and BD140 in this circuit...
There is no need to have Philips or BC capacitors in their Neve clones - there are better ones available and the well known service guys around also use different brands when they do their repair work... I tested BCs against Panasonic and Nichicon and could not hear a difference. As you can see from the pictures I use radial capacitors and bend the legs to fit the PCBs. Make sure you get 105°C ones, preferably low ESR type (Panasonic FC & FR are the ones I use typically). Some of the values of electrolytic are not standard anymore use the next higher value (e.g. use 220uF instead of 180uF).
Do not use audio type (bipolar) electrolytic capacitors in a Neve circuit - this would be totally of topic!
All other types (tantal or styroflex) are marked in the AMS Issue3 document.
As a rule for Neve circuits - whenever u see a 22uF capacitor use a tantal one
With all other capacitors in the circuits you should follow the documentation. Tantals, MKS and polystyrene or styroflex do matter as they have an impact on the sound. Most of them are associated to the EQ section anyway - Styroflex for the high band is an absolute must!!! Check my picture above - Styroflex are the silver ones between the red Wimas
Don't worry on the anti-click resistors. Everything bigger than 4M7 is OK. On some schematics Neve even uses 10M.
In the end they are just for what has been said: anti-click when turning the knob ;D
I have Franks latest version of his drawings (v8) for review of the parts marked with a question mark.
I am also in contact with him for the front panel & case. I plan to have a 1U 19" Box made for each channel, re-assembling the original FP-layout of the original... Power Supply will be external. But this will only happen when I have the first channel working (see above picture - I test the layout with a printed layout and an aluminium bracket I made at home).
I already built and repaired a lot of Neve stuff. Some of my builds can be seen in my gallery.
The most complicated one was certainly a 2254 based on the Wonderland PCB set - the wiring alone was horrible.
The 1081 is not as complicated as a 2254.
However, you should have some experience in more complex builds and use the mentioned Iss. 3 documentation!
It is just the amount of wiring involved in this built that takes some time if done properly.
BTW: Read this before you start building anything Neve - related:
http://auroraaudio.net/ask-geoff/neve-2/tech-tips While you are on the site, also have a look to Geoff's Forum
http://www.technicalaudio.com/reading/neve1081/1081.html