1176 clone finally finished - not G1176!

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

joe-electro

Well-known member
White Market Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2006
Messages
502
Location
Somewhere doing audio stuff.
After 11 long, grueling years, my fourth 1176LN clone is finally finished! This one is about as exact as it is possible to get, using original equipment power, input and output transformers, attenuator, FETs - even the case is an original UREi. I did make several, intentional deviations from the original. The zener diode in the +30V supply has a *much* larger heatsink on it, as this zener tends to deterioriate over time otherwise. I used a precision, 10-turn pot Clarostat pot for the meter zero, making it much easier to get the meter exactly on zero, and I used an 8-pin, socketed, DIP op-amp in the meter circuit, making replacement much easier if it's ever necessary. Here are some pics:

Kenetek_1176_1024.jpg

Kenetek_1176_Rear_1024w.jpg

Kenetek_1176_Inside_1024w.jpg


Let me know what you think.

---Joe
 
That looks amazing man, congrats! :thumb:

How did you fasten the pushbutton switches to the frontpanel, threaded holes on the backside or some other arrangement?
 
[quote author="Fredrik"]That looks amazing man, congrats! :thumb:

How did you fasten the pushbutton switches to the frontpanel, threaded holes on the backside or some other arrangement?[/quote]

That was the original plan but I got a little overzealous with the drill. So I used black, powdercoated, countersunk, socket-head cap screws mounted through the panel. They're visible but they look fine. I wasn't about to scrap an otherwise perfectly good front panel.

---Joe
 
Ok, I see. I never realy got my head around how to do this, seems tricky to say the least. Props on the PCB. I´m in the process of building Mnats rev D and haven´t realy decided if I should go for an authentic look or something else.
 
[quote author="Fredrik"]Ok, I see. I never realy got my head around how to do this, seems tricky to say the least. Props on the PCB. I´m in the process of building Mnats rev D and haven´t realy decided if I should go for an authentic look or something else.[/quote]

PEM makes nuts that can attach to the back side of the panel, which make attachment of the pushbutton switch assemblies much easier, but I didn't have any available and I got impatient after 11 years. Another option is a sub panel mounted behind the front panel.
 
Amazing work! I love it!

As far as mounting pushbuttons I found the easiest and most secure method is just to JB Weld stand-offs to the inside of the panel. Very, very sturdy. Not pretty but it's only the inside of the case.

You can kind see it here:
2462448735_f6a720cb30_o.jpg


Mike
 
Back
Top