500 series Gyraf G9

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peter purpose

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
Messages
2,082
Location
London
I've heard nothing but good about Jakob's G9, so I thought I'd try to make a 500 series version.
I've dropped the line option and have only one HPF setting.
I haven't fired it up yet, but will let you know if it works as well as it is supposed to.

g95.jpg

 
aaaaawwwwwww....crap. I've been working on this for like, 3 months...

Goes to show how slow I am. Oh well, at least I can still build for me.

What are you using for boost converter chip? looks like a stripped down version of the 555 or maxim circuit floating the interwebs...
 
Oh, and I also did the HPF and LINE options using the typical dpdt/spdt mountain/ck switched, but the on-off-on ones. Something to think about, lot's o people use these for bus coloration.
 
Rodney,
Don't let this stop you doing your own version.... the more, the merrier I say.
I'm not planning on releasing it as a kit without permission from Jakob, if at all.
This is more of a 'see if I could do it' sort of thing.

MC34063 for the boost.
 
since I'm working on an (G9 unrelated) tube unit (with only one tube):
power consumption? :eek:

while the high voltage is the easier part, how did you manage the heaters?
 
Not fired up yet, but anticipate 350mA ish. Way over spec, but who cares.
12V for the heaters from the dc-dc converter (running from both rails), or a slow start regulator pulling just the positive rail.
 
peter purpose said:
Not fired up yet, but anticipate 350mA ish. Way over spec, but who cares.
12V for the heaters from the dc-dc converter (running from both rails), or a slow start regulator pulling just the positive rail.
cool, thanks.
who cares?
not me.
I remember a discussion about oversized 511 Rack PSU transformers today.
But I remember the discussion for the specs of it here in the forum too ;D
 
peterc said:
Looks frikkin spectacular!

I'm sure you have thought about it, but any reason for not running the heaters at 12v in series?

"Only" draws 150mA....

I had no idea Peter... thanks for the tip.
 
sahib said:
May I humbly suggest to cut out apertures on the PCB where the valves are.

There are quite a few resistors under them, so not really viable.
Besides, they are a few mm off the board and can be more.
 
So basically the pcb IS the socket... nice.

Sorry for sounding bitter in my earlier posts... I was on my (crappy 1st gen android) phone. I love your work, Peter. Well done. I'll still build mine, there are quite a few differences. I would have beat you to it if I hadn't had to pay for my wife's dental work lest month ;)

 
Very nice Peter, almost as nice and compact as the original I've just finished building!!!
:eek:  :mad:  :'(  ::)  ;D
 
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