500 series Gyraf G9

[peter purpose]

So basically the pcb IS the socket... nice.

Yeah, but that 16 way socket isn't as solid as I'd hoped.

 

[gemini86]

maybe a dual inline socket? Other than perhaps a small L bracket.

 

[peter purpose]

maybe a dual inline socket? Other than perhaps a small L bracket.

More likely the header straight into the pcb and lose the socket.

 

[mulletchuck]

so, the big question, obviously...

HOW'S IT SOUND!!!!

if you ran the tubes right into the board, does that mean that it would take up 2 slots instead of 1?    Looks great, by the way. 


edit:  whoops, i read that wrong.  thought you were saying you'd lose the 90-degree angle of the tubes altogether.  i understand now!!! :green: :noob:

 

[[silent:arts]]

so, the big question, obviously...

HOW'S IT SOUND!!!!

...
I haven't fired it up yet, but will let you know if it works as well as it is supposed to.
...

;D ;D ;D

 

[peter purpose]

if you ran the tubes right into the board, does that mean that it would take up 2 slots instead of 1? 

Yes

 

[pyjaman]

Just an idea for the heaters for 51x serie : Two 12v heaters in serie could be taken from one 24v tap ( taken from the either the + or - 24v, via a jumper, wich would permit to spread power consumption if several modules are fitted in the same rack) then HT converted from the 16v tap.
just to say.
Laurent.

 

[peter purpose]

Smart.

 

[strangeandbouncy]

Hi Peter,



  Wowsers . . . ..


  you are THE man, for shizzle . .



      KIndest regards,


        ANdyP

 

[peter purpose]

Just tried the heaters in series +12v turns into 6.3V at the heaters.. pulling 96mA.
Does that sound right?
Not glowing like they were.... sniff.

 

[ruckus328]

Peter, little confused - you're not using the 51X +/-24V rail right?  What are you powering the TDK part from?  It's a 24V input part you're using so just trying to understand where you're getting the 24V from.

Ohh and one more thing, I often have to do 90 deg connections for various designs and what I do is basically do a rectangular cutout on the main board with pads right up to the cutout.  Then on the small daughter board I'll have a tab that sticks out and basically "fingers" on that that line up with the main board pads.  Insert the daughter board into the slot on the main board and solder each side.  Works like a charm, nice solid connection and no wobbly connectors.  I did this a while back when I was trying to cram a T4B into a 500 module and worked no problem.  I can post a pic to show you what I mean if you can't picture it.

 

[[silent:arts]]

looking at the gold fingers Peter is still ignoring the 51X standard ;D

Just tried the heaters in series +12v turns into 6.3V at the heaters

sounds right. in my books 2 x 12V heaters in series need 24V (and no DC/DC converter anymore)
they are like light bulbs on your christmas tree.

 

[ruckus328]

Like this:

 

[ruckus328]

looking at the gold fingers Peter is still ignoring the 51X standard ;D

Yea that's what I thought, which is why I'm confused where 24V is coming from for the converter input.

 

[peterc]

Did you remember to change the heater pins for 12v operation? Pins 4 & 5 only.

Just tried the heaters in series +12v turns into 6.3V at the heaters.. pulling 96mA.
Does that sound right?

 

[peter purpose]

Peter, little confused - you're not using the 51X +/-24V rail right?  What are you powering the TDK part from?  It's a 24V input part you're using so just trying to understand where you're getting the 24V from.

Mike,
The TDK is running off the plus and minus rails, with a gizmo in front that only turns it on when 28V is seen.
So converting from dual rail 16v to single +12v.

Thanks for the connector idea.

 

[peter purpose]

in my books 2 x 12V heaters in series need 24V (and no DC/DC converter anymore)

Aha.... that's why the lights went out.
I'd better go back to the greedy version as 24v is not available on this card.

 

[peter purpose]

Did you remember to change the heater pins for 12v operation? Pins 4 & 5 only.

I did.... 12v into 4.. out of 5 to the other 4, 5 to ground.

 

[ruckus328]

in my books 2 x 12V heaters in series need 24V (and no DC/DC converter anymore)

Aha.... that's why the lights went out.
I'd better go back to the greedy version as 24v is not available on this card.

Couldn't you try and convert +/-16V to get your 24V to (hopefully) stay within spec?

 

[gemini86]

He'd still be out of spec. With the heaters taking 150ma and also running the hv booster off the same rails that's gotta be over 300ma. You guys are working out everything I already worked out for my design. Such a great group!