5003 eq building and help.

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
peterc said:
Hi Ben

I am sorry about this but I sincerely promise you that your parcel has shipped. I can get you the tracking number (again?) this evening.

If nothing arrives in the next couple of weeks I will gladly refund you your money, but as I say it is on the way.

Regards
Peter

Peter,

I'm glad to read that !
Yes, I'd like to have a tracking number. I hope it will ending happily :D !

Best,

Ben
 
I got my metal work the other week and the pots the week before. I just need to do the final assembly, I'm stoked to have 4 of these guys.
 
So I wrapped up my 4 units last night. I thought I read through the thread really well but I think I made all of my out of phase, I put red above brown. Can anyone confirm that they should be brown over red?
 
Mine were red above brown, but if you measure them and they are out of phase I guess you have to flip them.
 
I don't have any of these specific trafos myself, but normally the leads are wired using resistor color codes. Brown, red, orange, yellow.. Brown would be the beginning of one winding and red the end. Likewise, Orange would be the beginning and yellow the end of the next winding. So, odd colors (Brn,Ora,grn,vio) are in phase with each other, as are evens.  The confusion with API trafos is that sometimes people wire the opamp output to the beginning of the winding (brown) sometimes to the end (red), and then obviously must wire the rest of the trafo windings in phase with how the primary is wound.

then it's just a matter of checking the PCB connections to see how the windings end up when soldered.

Of course, sometimes, in a large order you might get some mfg errors, in which case all this doesn't apply.

hth!
 
Ben

It all depends how the secondary is wired.....  If the EQs are out of phase, then just reverse the Brown/Red

In the previous pics, the secondary  was wired opposite to my original protos.

Peter
 
Hi guys

For anyone who is building these(in north america or anywhere else where shipping is expensive, etc) and hasn't purchased the Omeg pots yet, let me tell you, it's far easier just to get them direct from them. Seeing as they offer minimum orders of 25 and the fact that i could custom order whatever options i wanted (center indent, 10%tolerance, etc) it was a pleasure to order from them directly.

I'm glad Peter suggested i do this instead of other options i was facing.

Thank you Omeg!

http://www.omeg.co.uk/pce16brc.htm
 
The cost was around 2.60gbp ea(@ 25 pcs with the options i wanted) and he shipping cost was only 13gbp(to canada).
 
If anyone needs some of these pots i have some for sale for 3.50 ea. These don't have centre indent...but will work perfectly.

Cheers.
 

Attachments

  • DSC03118.JPG
    DSC03118.JPG
    74.9 KB · Views: 44
did not see this in the thread so sorry if this has been asked previously, but does anyone know the bolt size for mounting Peter's output transformer?  i did try a 6-32 bolt which initially seemed to be the correct size, but increasingly became more difficult to turn.  then i thought maybe these had metric treading.  not sure if this is just the varnish or if I have the wrong screw size. 

can someone confirm the bolt size for Peter's 2503 output transformer?
thank you.

-grant
 
Hey Denyle gtrs , did you say using a center off switch works like
turning the individual bands off ?
Haven't gotten pots yet but though i don't to worry about center detents
if the center off switch will do the job

btw anyone have extra pots ?
 
okgb said:
Hey Denyle gtrs , did you say using a center off switch works like
turning the individual bands off ?
Haven't gotten pots yet but though i don't to worry about center detents
if the center off switch will do the job

Yes, center-off removes that band from the eq.
 
Sorry guys...i got confused. (centre indent/centre off) So the toggle switches for are this are centre off? I was wondering about that myself...
 
Denyle Guitars said:
Probably one or two laminations out of line are making it hard to fit the 6-32. 4-40 screw will be an easier fit.

right on the nose! thanks Denyle Guitars!  i did notice that the end "E" lams were not aligned and looked in side the mounting holes.  i'll be picking up some 1" 4-40 screws then.
thanks again!  very much appreciated.
-grant
 
The pots i got from Omeg have center indent...essentially making the band flat.
 
how close are yours to flat with the pot at center?  Curious if you measured the resistance at center ever? If not would you mind measuring a couple random ones? Just curiosity, I think you could getthem perfectly flat with a series resistor on the side with less resistance at center (should get flat response at center at the cost of a bit less max boost or cut depending on the side the resistor is on).

Anyway, I traded my PCBs for some original 553 PCBs and toroid inductors, so if I figure out how to convert the pinout to 500 series(they're not standard) I may pick up some of those pots from you). How's canada post lately?
 
You know, that's a good question. :) I've been wondering where my i/o boards are that i ordered from Pier?

All the pots that were shipped (w-w/o indent) were ordered at 10% tolerance. (Standard is 20% from Omeg).
I did ask Peter his experience a while back as he used 10% as well...and i believe he replied that it couldn't be heard...or something along those lines.

I'll take a measurement of the indent pots for kicks tho...just to see what they are.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top