8 Channel, 3U NEVE 1073 completed

[zachs]

Working on my 4 boards now, man there's a lot of soldering. I've got 2 boards all the way done and 2 about half way.

I noticed there's a few blank solder holes on in your photos you've soldering them in, I suppose we're to do the same?

For the psu, I already built my JLM Power Station, am I going to use the negative rail at all? Am I just supposed to split 4 different wires off of the +24? I understand most all the wiring on this project except how the power supply works.

 

[wolfgang]

>>>>Is this what I need to do to power my 4 units?

Yes! You dont need a negative rail for your neve!

 

[zachs]

Yea that's what I figured. I'm still unclear as to how I get the +24 for all of them. The Power Station only has 1 +24v on it, do I just wire up 4 different pairs off the xlr 4 pin power that go to each pcb?

Would it be easy to add the Carnhill VTB9046 (Line Input) by simply wiring it the same as the Mic Input and attaching both to the PCB in the same place, or would it have to be done differently? Just thinking if in the future I would want to add line ins if it would be that simple or much more work than that.

 

[mitsos]

A quick question.. I'm am buying a couple of these boards from another member, and just started getting the BOM together... Couple quick questions... The caps listed as polystyrene are actually ceramic, I know either will do, but is there any authenticity factor in going with styrene?

Also, the infamous grayhill... Is there any other (cheaper) alternative?  Could any 3P12T shorting switch be wired in?

I guess that's it for now... til I get my boards, then I'll have a ton more questions!

Thanks!

 

[zachs]

The best thing to do is stick strictly to the BOM and use the part numbers that are provided. Not sure on the caps, it would seem as they are done that way to stay true to the original. On the switch, there's been a lot of talk between this thread and the Neve 1290 thread, look around and see. I know the consensus was always just go for the Grayhill, you'll be thanking yourself later.

 

[mitsos]

Yeah, I'm planning on it.. I'm ordering from TAW instead of Digikey, so I had to look up the Cap part numbers to see what values they actually were, and that's how it came to my attention... Anyway, I am going to get both ceramic and styrene, but in the meantime I did some searching for pics of old Neve boards and it looks like they had styrene in them, which I guess is  why Martin labeled them as such.

And I just saw that the board sale included the grayhills! so no issue there anymore..

 

[Whoops]

can you please tell me were can I find that info on the caps?

where have you seen them labelled or listed?

 

[zachs]

And I just saw that the board sale included the grayhills! so no issue there anymore..

Is Martin now selling the boards with the grayhill switches?

 

[Whoops]

The caps listed as polystyrene are actually ceramic, I know either will do, but is there any authenticity factor in going with styrene?

Thanks!

I would like to ask the same question.
What capacitor type are you using for the non-polarized ones?

Would Styrene be the best option?

how about Panasonic Polypropylene? or Panasonic Stacked Metal Film?

thanks

 

[Gachet]

Hi everybody

Where can i find boards or pdf to make pcb for this project?

Thanks

 

[Whoops]

Gachet

it's as simple as going to the first page, first post of this thread.

 

[Gachet]

Hi there

Thanks whoops and madriaanse

Payment sent for 4 boards

Best regards

 

[nikonet]

hello !!!

two EZ1290 finished but i have some questions:

what's "jumper" on the PCB ?

thanks a lot for your responses

 

[digichild]

hello !!!

two EZ1290 finished but i have some questions:

what's "jumper" on the PCB ?

thanks a lot for your responses

thats an resistor with zero ohms 
no seriously: its just a piece of wire

 

[Whoops]

hello !!!

two EZ1290 finished but i have some questions:

what's "jumper" on the PCB ?

thanks a lot for your responses

thats an resistor with zero ohms 
no seriously: its just a piece of wire

You can use the legs that you cut from resistors or capacitors and solder it there.

 

[zachs]

Getting closer to finishing up my 4 channel version. Drilled out all the XLRs tonight with a stepped bit and a drill press, man what a bitch that can be 

At the last minute I decided to go with the Go Betweens, pretty glad I did as well, makes a lot of things easier. The only thing is that I don't want the switches so close together so I'm wiring them off board. It's pretty nuts thought because there's 6 wires per switch, 3 switches per board, and 4 boards to do, yikes. Should be worth it in the end.

Quick question: Can I add a 24V lamp on the front panel just by tapping off of the 24V going to a channel? Also, I'd like to make the power cable able to unhook from the psu box, is it a problem to use another xlr there instead of wiring it right into the psu?

 

[nikonet]

ok, thanks a lot !!!!

and excuse me for my stupid question...........

 

[Whoops]

Getting closer to finishing up my 4 channel version. Drilled out all the XLRs tonight with a stepped bit and a drill press, man what a bitch that can be 

Quick question: Can I add a 24V lamp on the front panel just by tapping off of the 24V going to a channel? Also, I'd like to make the power cable able to unhook from the psu box, is it a problem to use another xlr there instead of wiring it right into the psu?

Oh Yeah, Drilling can be painful even with a stepped drill. I don't have a Drill Press, so it was a terrible experience.
But anyway i got it done.

You can use an XLR on the PSU Box, just make sure it's a Female XLR nad not a Male. You don't want the voltage exposed in the male pins.

 

[zachs]

Wow yea I can image with a hand drill that wasn't good. I've had better luck with a hole saw bit actually, might have been better.

Yea good point that makes sense thanks.

 

[nikonet]

hello, 2 préamp finished..............

but a little noise at -70dB when switch turn at full clockwise (gain full)

so i'v got a question: r7 need to be a 47ohm/1w resistor on the pcb, and on the bom it's 47H-ND which is 47ohm / 1/2w.........is it important?

an other one: pin1 on XLR need to be connected to the box (ground) ?

excuse for my bad language, i'm french.............

thanks a lot !!!