Altec 436 PCB

[baadc0de]

hello

NEVER BUY drip electronic..... for the price ...

THERE IS NO SCHEMATICS !!!  the forum is broken ...i'm not happy .

Having built 4 units with drip electronics PCBs ...

- I have bought some (expensive) components that the user manual suggested that were later proved to be incompatible with the PCB or transformer combination
- There are indeed no schematics, and it's a big problem when you want to troubleshoot something
- The boards are unnecessarily large, making integration into cases a problem
- While some basic information is covered in the manuals, steps to produce a truly hum-free, trouble-free unit is usually lacking

Thus, what I thought the company set out to do (help people dabbling in DIY get their feet wet) isn't really the case here. That said, do your Altec point-to-point. It's not a lot of components.

 

[reboot]

hello

i wasn't happy last time ...

i have to apologize because drip has a real service and helped me a lot to resolve my problem.

thank you baadc0de , i'm also agree with you .

 

[baadc0de]

True, some things have changed.

Drip now offers on-demand full schematics, for example and I see his support latency has improved. Also, the forum is more active since more people have finished drip builds and can thus help on the specific projects.

Still, one day I'll probably do a 670 from that site OMG what an expensive project that will be.

 

[SLB]

[quote author="fazeka"][quote author="emrr"]the original Altec input is not 15K:15K, it's a 1:2 step-up.  And the output is 28K:600.  And the core material will certainly sound different than the Edcor steel, no matter what any response measurements suggest.

OK, I see that Sowter 3575 has it at 10K:10K, 1:1. I thought Brian would have cloned an original Peerless 4651A?[/quote]

Most of the Sowter vintage clone ratios are incorrect, if you want to get picky.  Sure they work.
[/quote]

I think this is the input transforemer you want for the 436C from SOWTER.

The 1231 Bridging input for Altec 436C
Ratio 1:2.3 15K to 80K CT. Very large 100% Mumetal core and thick Mumetal can. Colour coded leads. . Can size 45 mm dia 52.5 mm high mounting grommet (Type 1231E) or 2 x M3 holes (Type1231I). Similar to peerless 4651A.

 

[buildafriend]

I do not mean to be discouraging but I would not advertise anything as an EMI mod, I read some pretty scary stuff about them and their patent laws. Usually a patent law only covers somethings general aesthetic but I am not a lawyer.

I am really happy to see you working on this, I would love to get one of these PCB's after it's all prototyped out and ready to go!

 

[ChrioN]

Regarding how to build these..

A detailed document illustrating the layout of point-to-point is as simple and "effective" as a PCB.

I think people should start selling documents on how to point-to-point units like these instead of selling PCBs.

Not that there is anything wrong with PCBs, but there are alternative ways of easy building.

 

[buildafriend]

I mean point to point seems like the kind of thing you would need a model unit for before starting a clone or it could get really messy. PCB can be learned from a kinesthetic approach. p2p seems to require a bit of instruction the first time around (hense why I have not done it.) What I like about p2p is that is seems like it would shorten the length of the signal path and it gives it less obstacles to go through. It is also something that is getting much less common in stores.

 

[zebra50]

p2p seems to require a bit of instruction the first time around 

The best way to get started is to look at some pictures of tube amps on line and get soldering!

Fit the plugs, transformers and tube sockets, buy some turret-strip or similar for the caps and resistors. Then follow the schematics and join the dots.

I did a P2P 438 clone as one of my first tube builds - it is not pretty inside but then neither is a real one! It worked first time and is still in use today (although fairly modified by now!).

 

[JayDubrek]

I've built two of these PTP- absolutely no need for PCBs! Both work great and were simple to build....

 

[buildafriend]

p2p seems to require a bit of instruction the first time around 

The best way to get started is to look at some pictures of tube amps on line and get soldering!

Fit the plugs, transformers and tube sockets, buy some turret-strip or similar for the caps and resistors. Then follow the schematics and join the dots.

I did a P2P 438 clone as one of my first tube builds - it is not pretty inside but then neither is a real one! It worked first time and is still in use today (although fairly modified by now!).

Hm.. well that is definitely inspirational to hear! How much did it cost you?

 

[ilfungo]

sorry
I see that this topic is old but
was never realized the PCB?
where can I find?
there is a layout P2P?
thanks