I managed to recap two more channels yesterday! And what should have been done before all else, but now is just as good a time as any, would be a PSU rebuild. Every topic I have read about a TAC scorpion mod started with "Do the power supply unit first". So here goes!!
Stuff to do:
* Cleaning, because it looks as if a rat died in here!
* Uncap all electrolytic capacitors
* Remove the TO-3 sockets for the LM388K, LM317HVK and MJ2955.
* Fit insulating layer between the heatsink and the PCB.
* New cooling past and TO-3 insulators
* Recap all electrolytic capacitors
* Break something
* Trial and error
* Replace burned resistor which I didn't spot because it was hidden!
So we needed to get the PCB out of it's enclosure, and not thinking clear I removed the fuse holders as they prevented me from lifting the board out of the box. Ok, I could have unscrewed the front plate, I didn't think of that! Anyway, that front plate will need replacement someday because the previous owner moved the power connectors to the front for easy access, I would like them in the back, where they belong.
Next we de-soldered all the electrolytic caps, removed the heatsinks and cleaned the PCB to get a fresh start for this puppy! As it turned out two of four TO-3 sockets were broken so it's a good thing I got pushed to remove them! You need to unscrew the TO-3 sockets, de-solder the two pins on the bottom of the PCB, and 1 pin on top. This last one is the actual metal housing, and the output of the amplifier/transistor. You need to remove that pin because the heatsink will otherwise bump into it when you try to put it down on the PCB.
I didn't have the TO-3 insulators yet, nor the cooling paste or any means of insulating the heatsinks from the PCB, although I don't see why you just couldn't fit them to the pcb, as it's a single layer circuit board. So I recapped the PSU-board.
(edit: nobody saw me messing up the polarity on that big axial cap!!)
It turned out that my local electronics shop does not have insulating slabs in stock, that happens to me all the time, and that's the main reason I order everything online, because that local shop is a waist of my time, cause it usualy takes half an hour for them to get back to you and say they don't have it! So we had to improvise.
I happen to be kind of a greasemonkey too and I remembered I had some G3900 gasket board laying around in my workshop. I used the gasket board as an insulating layer between the PCB and the heatsinks, and pretty sure there will be no leaking either!
I managed to get everything lined out, and bent some thick component lead leftover to use as a connector between the TO-3 shields and their output traces. You can then solder the other pins to the board. No more Sockets no chance of these to come loose!
Before soldering I cleaned the heatsinks and the TO-3 packages. I applied new cooling past and fitted new bolts to put everything pack into position.
After breaking two of the fuse holders when refitting them and replacing a bad resistor I did not spot before I was ready to refit the board. Only thing left was to hook everything back up and measure the voltages. After that I plugged in the scorpion and everything worked as it should!
All information regarding a PSU rebuild I found:
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Schematics *note, C2 is the big 10,000uF cap next to C1! Wrong marking on the silkscreen. This is the schematics for a 750 PSU, in my original manual there's only a 350 schematics?!
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Colin's TO-3 socket fix.