Anyone used one of these desoldering guns ?

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Rob Flinn said:
or maybe this

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DURATOOL-D00672-DESOLDERING-STATION-UK-EU-PLUG-/230374032331?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item35a35cc3cb

This seems a better bet because the spare nozzles & gun can be got from CPC or Farnell.

I've got that one, recapped a whole console and some other gear with it, works pretty well. After some time it gets weaker and you need to clean out the solder wick from the container and now and then change the filters. Look at German eBay for it, I only paid 60 EUR for mine new. The seller also has an online shop:
http://www.komerci.de/shop/%5B4806%5D_Regelbare-Digitale-Profi-Entloetstation-ESD-ZD-915.htm
 
Rob Flinn said:
I have quite a big recap job coming up & was looking around at desoldering guns.  I'm fed up of using the hand pump, because of the damage the recoil can do to old circuit boards.

I know a lot of people use the Hakko, which is very similar to the De non, but I found this which is very much cheaper than both

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320625318351&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I know it's very obviously cheap Chinese, but has anyone actually used one ?

It's about 1/4 the price you can get a Hakko for in the UK.
Are you aware of the old Biro pen trick?
I have found that to be the best desoldering tool for through-hole work, provided you can put the PCB flat on a table.
For those who don't know:
Discard a Biro pen, keep the plastic tube only. Take off the little cap on top.
Put the PCB flat on a table, with some protective material (paper, wood...)
Melt the solder joint with your standard iron.
Put the flared side of the Biro just above the solder.
Then blow into the tube as hard as you can.

You may want to cut the component leads before...
I have tried doing the same with an SMD hot-air gun, but it doesn't blow hard enough. I wished some manufacturer came with an industrialised version...
 
hmm was the hakko FM series a bad choice? I think somebody was pointing that out, T equipment is doing a nice deal on one of them:

http://www.tequipment.net/HakkoFM2024-01.html

EDIT: oops that model needs the soldering station...
 
I own one of these:

http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/blackjack-solderwerks-thruhole-desoldering-station-bk-4000-p-175.html

and a 808.  I like the 808 better but the Blackjack 4000 works fine when you are on a budget (95 quid)
Just keep it clean and buy extra tips.

GARY
 
Kingston said:
You say you've been using the hand pump. That thing is destruction encased in a tube and should only be used for really large blobs to get the initial mass out.

Hey Kingston,

I have been holding soldering iron for almost 35 years now and I still use hand pump. I have never re-capped a large console but I have removed switches with as many legs as a centipede without any problem. However, what I normally do is to double up the spring inside or use a bigger one, and clean/lubricate it regularly.

In terms of de-soldering from large ground planes I use a 75W Weller which is like a blow torch. It has a screwdriver type tip. I can remove transistors with it in a single touch without even using the pump. I don't remember destroying a single one. Literally a couple of seconds hit and run.
 
Rob Flinn said:
I've actually bought a Hakko 808 at great expense :(    Just waiting for delivery.    I would have bought a system with a base unit, but I need it to be portable & don't want mad excess baggage charges if I have to go abroad with it.

You won't regret it, Rob. As I stated earlier, your only regret will be that you didn't get the thing years ago. Considering it costs about half the price, I have to be honest and say that the 808 is probably better for most jobs than the De-non SC7000. I haven't powered up the SC7000 for months, if I'm honest. I guess the De-non has more accurate temperature control, but I don't do too much work with finicky components - more your everyday analogue audio through-hole parts.

Justin
 
Hey Rob & Justin

Where did you buy yours? I'm looking for something like this - I'm doing too many repairs at the moment!

Stew
 
You won't regret it, Stewart. I got mine off US Ebay whilst over there. It's a 110v job and I use a variac to step down for it. As Rob's commented, the 220v version is a lot more expensive. My advice is to have a sniff around Ebay and do the sums as to which makes most sense.

One tool I can endorse without fear of giving duff advice!

J
 
Cool, thanks Justin.

I have some 110V supplies for other stuff so that's not a problem. I'll have a look!
 
I got my Hakko through today, & it is everything I expected it to be, it' works really well & makes life easy.  Much quicker than a hand pump, & much more gentle on my old mixing desk boards.

Not cheap for the 230v version, which I got from Dancap Electronics, but I will be using it away from my workshop so, I can't be taking a stepdown transformer with me on the train etc.
 
I
Rob Flinn said:
... I will be using it away from my workshop so, I can't be taking a stepdown transformer with me on the train etc.

I guess you are a gun for hire!  :D
 
i know this is a rather old topic but i am looking for the 808 or the BJ 4000. I am going to be using for something different than you all.

I did a test with a manual pump and it works.

Basically i do BGA rework, after lifting the chip i have to clean the BGA pads with a lot of flux and wick and is time consuming. Pad damage occurs on the rare occasion.

After i lifted the chip, i immediately took my manual pump and sucked the solder right off the pads making them super clean. It worked but is annoying and can cause damage due to the recoil.

I figure something with a very strong pump will work. I dont really need heat as the board is hot and i want TOUCHLESS so to avoid pad damage, so i basically just need a powerful pump.

There will be a lot of solder a few thousand .6mm solder balls worth. So i assume i will be cleaning the 808 often? I prefer the BJ 4000 due to the lighter weight since the main pump is in the base but i want something that lasts.

I was also considering a mini but powerful desktop vacuum to suck the solder. While using hot air to keep the solder hot.
 
You should really use an application specific station, especially if you are talking in the thousands.  Thru hole tools will not be much help there.  I am still on baby-steps with SMD caps and such, but there must be all sorts of rework stations with proper suckers at your disposal.
When you are talking thousands of anything work, you cannot afford NOT to have the best specific tools.  Sure you can replace car tires with a trunk jack and ratchet with a long pipe over the handle, but it would be silly to use that tool set for scores of them.
Mike
 

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