B9A tube right angle mounts

[ruffrecords]

I can't open either file after having changed the extension to .step.
Can you post the links?

The original extension was .stp. I am not at the right computer right now and I cannot find the link I used. I suspect I had to log in to gain access so I will try again later today when I get over to the workshop.

Cheers

Ian

 

[ruffrecords]

@MidnightArrakis can you post the CAD file for the 3 face version of the cube with the updated nut cavity. I will then print off a couple and see how the nuts fit them and report back.

Cheers

Ian

 

[MidnightArrakis]

@MidnightArrakis can you post the CAD file for the 3 face version of the cube with the updated nut cavity. I will then print off a couple and see how the nuts fit them and report back.

Cheers

Ian

[can you post the CAD file for the 3 face version of the cube with the updated nut cavity] -- SHEESH!!!.....I must be getting dementia!!! As I was writing my previous reply, it was in my mind to attach another STL file, but.....it somehow got lost along the way!!!

In any case.....here's the STL version of my recent madness:



/

 

[MidnightArrakis]

I can't open either file after having changed the extension to .step.
Can you post the links?

[I can't open either file after having changed the extension to .step] -- See if changing the extension to -- .stp -- will work. There is a difference.

In addition, there are also -- 3 -- different levels of STP/STEP files: 1) AP203 2) AP214 and, 3) AP242

See if you can find out which "Level" your printer defaults to and/or which one(s) it is capable of importing.

/

 

[ruffrecords]

@abbey road d enfer I found the link:

https://schroff.nvent.com/en-gb/products/enc60807-181

You do have to login to download.

Cheers

Ian

 

[Cqwet Dbdfte]

Metal thread heat inserts are better than plastic threads. Self tapping may be OK for a few cycles. Make a hole for root diameter and finish with a drill for better tolerance.

 

[abbey road d enfer]

@abbey road d enfer I found the link:

https://schroff.nvent.com/en-gb/products/enc60807-181

You do have to login to download.

Cheers

Ian

Interestingly, they offer files in Design Spark Mechanical, which is the 3D design software I use.
I made a dual version . Try it and tell me what you think. I fear it's too fragile.

EDIT: Actually, the part exists there for downloading: https://schroff.nvent.com/en-gb/products/enc60807-211
As far as I can see, it's all thru-holes.

 

[abbey road d enfer]

After a bunch of mind-numbing research I went for an Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra. It is an MSLA Machine, I may hate it; I sure hope not.

I'll be interested about your experience with this machine.
SLA (and MSLA) is a very different experience than FDM.
FDM is pretty inocuous (unless you do a lot of ABS) but SLA requires a well vented (but without draughts) space and often an additional air purifier.
Conservation of resins seem to be an issue, requiring serious UV protection; conservation of filament is much simpler IMO, baking them from time to time in a fruit dryer does the trick.
All the post-processing of resin seems to me like a tedious task involving cleaning in IPA and UV curing.
These steps are not necessary with FDM.
OTOH I have no practical knowledge of SLA; I know many people favour it over FDM, probably because it produces a better surface finish.

 

[13engrsapper]

I will likely end up buying a FDM machine as well. My interest in 3D printing perked up when I saw an article about printing circuit boards with conductive traces - years back. It was just not ready and way too expensive for me/us to get into.

Yes, I looked hard at all of the disadvantages, the finished look of the part was my main focus. We are nearly at a point where we can begin small run production of a few products again. I am hoping this could be a useful tool. We also are regularly involved in restoration projects, being able to produce obsolete vintage parts with a more finished look was a concern. Our main machine area (insulated attached garage with its own AC and dehumidifier) is well ventilated, and is the best climate controlled area in my house - as far as humidity. But temperatures are harder to control. I will figure something out.

From my research it seems that SLA is the oldest technology in 3D printing, as with FDM there is an almost dizzying array of (and price range) of print medias - with various hardness and flexibility ranges as well as conductive, skin safe, FDA approved medical grades etc.

My interest in FDM was largely in the filament with structural additives for high-strength parts.

Amazon is now saying delivery today between 4 and 8 PM. I am hoping to be printing by midnight. These are entry level machines at this price range - I am not expecting miracles, but it seemed like a good time to jump in.

 

[MidnightArrakis]

I will likely end up buying a FDM machine as well. My interest in 3D printing perked up when I saw an article about printing circuit boards with conductive traces - years back. It was just not ready and way too expensive for me/us to get into.

Yes, I looked hard at all of the disadvantages, the finished look of the part was my main focus. We are nearly at a point where we can begin small run production of a few products again. I am hoping this could be a useful tool. We also are regularly involved in restoration projects, being able to produce obsolete vintage parts with a more finished look was a concern. Our main machine area (insulated attached garage with its own AC and dehumidifier) is well ventilated, and is the best climate controlled area in my house - as far as humidity. But temperatures are harder to control. I will figure something out.

From my research it seems that SLA is the oldest technology in 3D printing, as with FDM there is an almost dizzying array of (and price range) of print medias - with various hardness and flexibility ranges as well as conductive, skin safe, FDA approved medical grades etc.

My interest in FDM was largely in the filament with structural additives for high-strength parts.

Amazon is now saying delivery today between 4 and 8 PM. I am hoping to be printing by midnight. These are entry level machines at this price range - I am not expecting miracles, but it seemed like a good time to jump in.

[it seems that SLA is the oldest technology in 3D printing] -- I had designed a combined -- handheld/wall-mount -- enclosure for a telecommunications company back in 1996 and they had 6 prototypes SLA-printed in order to present a new product design at a large telecommunications industry conference back then. My enclosure design consisted of 4 separate pieces that all kind of "snapped" together. Here's a photo that I took of the enclosure I had designed:


/

 

[13engrsapper]

Amazon is now saying delivery today between 4 and 8 PM.

RRRRRR, now it says between 5 and 9 PM today, I guess that is not so bad, it is 5 now. I better go check that room temperature, it was 70.0 F on last check. Just on the bottom edge of ok. I could always add a heater to the room for winter, or use the dehumidifiers output air to raise local temps. Or not be so impetuous and wait for it to be 5 degrees warmer outside, nah. I am printing tonight.

 

[ruffrecords]

Interestingly, they offer files in Design Spark Mechanical, which is the 3D design software I use.
I made a dual version . Try it and tell me what you think. I fear it's too fragile.

EDIT: Actually, the part exists there for downloading: https://schroff.nvent.com/en-gb/products/enc60807-211
As far as I can see, it's all thru-holes.

That is the one I included in post #177. I printed one last night. You can almost self tap M2.5 screws into the holes but I would not rely on that for a fixing. I fits very snugly against the PCB and gives good support between it and the front panel.



Schroff I thinks has another version which has tapped metal inserts

Cheers

Ian

 

[ruffrecords]

[can you post the CAD file for the 3 face version of the cube with the updated nut cavity] -- SHEESH!!!.....I must be getting dementia!!! As I was writing my previous reply, it was in my mind to attach another STL file, but.....it somehow got lost along the way!!!

In any case.....here's the STL version of my recent madness:

View attachment 141935

/

I successfully printed one this evening. The nut fits perfectly flush. The hole diameter is slightly tight for an M3 screw but easy enough to screw in. Perhaps increase the hole diameter by 0.1mm?

It only took about 15 minutes to print.

Thanks you.

Cheers

Ian

 

[MidnightArrakis]

I successfully printed one this evening. The nut fits perfectly flush. The hole diameter is slightly tight for an M3 screw but easy enough to screw in. Perhaps increase the hole diameter by 0.1mm?

It only took about 15 minutes to print.

Thanks you.

Cheers

Ian

[Perhaps increase the hole diameter by 0.1mm?] -- That would make the Thru-Hole diameter to be 3.1mm, which is "just a hair" or "just slightly less than a smidgen" from being an Imperial dimension of 1/8th-inch or 0.125-inch = 3.175mm. So, I have made all of the Thru-Hole diameters to be 3.175mm because it's a "nice" dimension while also offering a tad bit more of printing room!!!

>> Here's the mechanical data on an M3 X 10mm Pan-Head Machine-Screw:


>> And.....HER-R-R-R-E W-E-E-E GO-O!!!.....


>> I have also reduced the overall cube dimension back down to a 10mm cube:



/

 

[ruffrecords]

I just realised I have made a serious mistake. As soon as you fit one screw and nut it blocks the way for the other two screws. The cube only works if the holes are threaded! Doh!

Back to the drawing board.

Cheers

Ian

 

[MidnightArrakis]

I just realised I have made a serious mistake. As soon as you fit one screw and nut it blocks the way for the other two screws. The cube only works if the holes are threaded! Doh!

Back to the drawing board.

Cheers

Ian

[I just realised I have made a serious mistake] -- "Brain Farts" happen all of the time!!!

[The cube only works if the holes are threaded!] -- There's a reason why the ETTINGER cubes exist!!!

[Back to the drawing board] -- Let me know whatever it is that you come up with, OK??? ("TAKE TWO"!!!).....

/

 

[13engrsapper]

I just finished my first test print - now I will have to download one of the files here and try it. Still working on understanding the software. This was just out of the box settings.

 

[MidnightArrakis]

I just finished my first test print - now I will have to download one of the files here and try it. Still working on understanding the software. This was just out of the box settings.

View attachment 142020

Is this available in lemon or orange? This looks like it's in cherry!!!

[I will have to download one of the files here and try it] -- Attached is an -- STL -- file of the device seen in Post #159. Since this device has M3 threads within it, it may be a good item to test the resolution of your printer on. And, I am certain that RuffRecords would also be interested in reading details about your end result.

>> About the attached file -- The actual complete filename of the attached file is:

10mm M3 Threaded Cube Standoff - Version-2 - RENAME 2 STL.PDF

Which simply means is, after downloading this "PDF" file, simply rename the PDF extension to -- STL -- and that is the actual file to import into your printer. I am mentioning this because when I do a "Save File As" routine, the filename instead appears as being: 93792-2e79d64b3e503509eb3e7413609ef975.pdf -- which means that you are losing my embedded instructions
(RENAME 2 STL) of what to do with this file after you have downloaded this file in order to have it be useful to your printer.

GOOD LUCK!!! & !!! MERRY CHRISTMAS !!!

/

 

[13engrsapper]

Is this available in lemon or orange? This looks like it's in cherry!!!

[I will have to download one of the files here and try it] -- Attached is an -- STL -- file of the device seen in Post #159. Since this device has M3 threads within it, it may be a good item to test the resolution of your printer on. And, I am certain that RuffRecords would also be interested in reading details about your end result.

>> About the attached file -- The actual complete filename of the attached file is:

10mm M3 Threaded Cube Standoff - Version-2 - RENAME 2 STL.PDF

Which simply means is, after downloading this "PDF" file, simply rename the PDF extension to -- STL -- and that is the actual file to import into your printer. I am mentioning this because when I do a "Save File As" routine, the filename instead appears as being: 93792-2e79d64b3e503509eb3e7413609ef975.pdf -- which means that you are losing my embedded instructions
(RENAME 2 STL) of what to do with this file after you have downloaded this file in order to have it be useful to your printer.

GOOD LUCK!!! & !!! MERRY CHRISTMAS !!!

/

It is available in a multitude of colors, both translucent and opaque. This is "ABS-Like version 3.0 Transparent Red" from Elegoo. I bought it for an indicator bulb lens in red I need to duplicate.