Here is a revised version, this is for M3 hardware. I have not printed this to test it yet. I will also post one for 4-40 hardware. I am trying to post as a .txt file, change it to .stl
It should look like the pic.
Last edited:
B9A tube right angle mounts
- Thread starter ruffrecords
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It should look like the pic.
ruffrecords
Well-known member
I just printed one of these. It looks great.
I notice the hole for the socket is a little large which results in there being very little meat on the inner walls of the two socket fixing holes. The hole diameter on the one I printed was 23.5mm.
22.5mm would still be comfortably clear of the nominal 22mm diameter sockets I use.
The cut-outs for M3 nuts in the base are too small. However, they are a perfect fit for M2.5 nuts.
Cheers
Ian
I notice the hole for the socket is a little large which results in there being very little meat on the inner walls of the two socket fixing holes. The hole diameter on the one I printed was 23.5mm.
22.5mm would still be comfortably clear of the nominal 22mm diameter sockets I use.
The cut-outs for M3 nuts in the base are too small. However, they are a perfect fit for M2.5 nuts.
Cheers
Ian
Awesome, we will get it there. What is the distance from flat to flat on the Hex nut holes on your part?
ruffrecords
Well-known member
It looks to be 5.2mm. The M3 nuts I have measure 5.4mm across the flats.
Cheers
ian
I will adjust the diameter of the main hole for yours on a revised drawing, after I get the grandkids to bed.
I am checking my drawing, I think I have it set at 5.45 Flat to Flat.
Ok, confirmed. On the Flat to Flat I have (0.107" x 2) x 25.4 = 5.435mm. On the through hole it should be 0.1338" x 25.4 = 3.398mm.
My printed hole sizes are slightly off too, it is calibration for my resin and exposure and machine. I am in the midst of doing calibration prints for my 3D printer right now, on mine with resin I guess if I overexpose hole sizes move one direction, and if I underexpose they go the other way. I am really excited about learning this late last night and finding a good handful of calibration targets to try. I am already happy with my printers output. This could be a similar issue with your print perhaps? I am so deep into learning the resin technology I have little knowledge of FDM and calibration for your media.
Brian Roth
Well-known member
Although I have no immediate requirement for one (or more?) of these, I've been following with great interest. @13engrsapper ...those triangular "gussets" are a brilliant idea!
I have one observation and some questions. Because of the required thickness of the surface holding the socket, the mounting nut on the side away from the socket's "keyway" seems to begin intruding into the space of the solder pins. I can't tell from the photo how much of a problem that may or may not be. Of course, a low profile or "small pattern" hex nut may reduce that clearance issue.
My general questions relate to the dimensions of the sockets and how much (if any) standardization there is for the diameter and length of the "barrel" of the socket and the center-center spacing of the mounting holes. Is a vintage Cinch or Amphenol socket different from what is currently sold in the new market? Hell, were the vintage sockets standardized? lol......
I ask because I can see that at least a few variants MIGHT be required to handle the different brands of sockets.
Nevertheless......EXCELLENT work.
Bri
I have one observation and some questions. Because of the required thickness of the surface holding the socket, the mounting nut on the side away from the socket's "keyway" seems to begin intruding into the space of the solder pins. I can't tell from the photo how much of a problem that may or may not be. Of course, a low profile or "small pattern" hex nut may reduce that clearance issue.
My general questions relate to the dimensions of the sockets and how much (if any) standardization there is for the diameter and length of the "barrel" of the socket and the center-center spacing of the mounting holes. Is a vintage Cinch or Amphenol socket different from what is currently sold in the new market? Hell, were the vintage sockets standardized? lol......
I ask because I can see that at least a few variants MIGHT be required to handle the different brands of sockets.
Nevertheless......EXCELLENT work.
Bri
ruffrecords
Well-known member
@Brian Roth I think there are at least two variables at play here.
1. Size/shape of the various B9A sockets both modern and vintage
2. Print process variations both between different processes and within each one.
The beauty of 3D printing is that you can quickly see what does and does not work before committing to any quantity.
Cheers
Ian
1. Size/shape of the various B9A sockets both modern and vintage
2. Print process variations both between different processes and within each one.
The beauty of 3D printing is that you can quickly see what does and does not work before committing to any quantity.
Cheers
Ian
Have you calibrated your printer?
It's quite an important step, particularly when you design your own prints.
Nominally it's 5.5mm. Close enough.
Anyway, as I mentioned earlier, making the pocket a tad smaller than needed can be dealt with either brute force or heat.
It seems that the resin you use doesn't lend itself to forced insertion.
This may be a significant difference between FDM and SLA.
Most of the filaments used in FDM are quite elastic, so force insertion is really an option, as well as heat.
I would be surprized that there wasn't a possible alternative with resin. Maybe inserting nuts before curing? IDK, just an idea...
That's where having a software tool capable of modifying stl's comes handy.
For anyone that wishes to go a little further than printing what others have designed, it's a must.
MidnightArrakis
Well-known member
[That's where having a software tool capable of modifying stl's comes handy] -- Here you go!!!
Here's a link for a -- FREE -- 3D-printing editing program by a company I have personally purchased a bunch of their programs from:
Working with 3D files using MeshMagic free 3D modeling software is easy. Quickly draw a 2D design and expand it to a 3D mesh. Import an existing STL file or other 3D file and modify it.
https://www.nchsoftware.com/meshmagic3d/index.html?kw=stl file&m=p&d=c&c=661666350424&ag=20078924895&gad_source=5&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjfKO3rKZigMVTRitBh3rTwHMEAAYBCAAEgIIwPD_BwE
/
Brian Roth
Well-known member
Oh well, since I don't have a 3D printer (or know anyone with one), my musings are academic <g>. If and when I ever need to mount a valve sideways, the original ideas in this thread from a dozen+ years ago make more sense to me....lay out a little PCB.
Bri
ruffrecords
Well-known member
No I have not done that. I was not even aware that it was necessary. I ASSumed that as everything is stepper motor driven there is nothing to calibrate. The one I have does automatically calibrate the extrusion before it prints. I believe they use an eddy current sensor for this but I do not know exactly how it works.
How would you calibrate it? Do you for example print a 1 inch cube for example and measure its actual dimensions?
Cheers
Ian
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