[BUILD] 1176 Rev A - Back to the beginning...

[Mbira]

Very nice Mnats, very very nice. 8)

 

[RedNoise]

Thanks Kazper.I usally order @ Farnell.For rev A or rev D , several parts are located in USA!Farnell ask me for 18e to get them!!Looking at the $ vs euro , I'll try Mouser I think.
thx for help!!

 

[outoftune]

ethervalve and i did an order from mouser, will try to find a way to post it soon.

 

[Stagefright13]

It is very similar to the rev D list except certain components. Such as the 2 J309 and a few caps and some resistors. Might be cool to just list the different components and go from there. I think I may chicken out on all carbon resistors on mine tho. I already have almost every one of them in metal film. But I am still considering it lol. It is very time consuming to order a whole page load of new resistors...

Anyone know what caps were in the original? I saw some inside pics of old ones and there seemed to be alot of big ceramics in there. I kinda want to make it different from my rev D's. I'm not afraid of a little noise and a cool vibe. You won't notice any extra noise on a loud guitar cabinet or a snare drum.

Anyone see any inside pics of an original rev A or have access to one? Or even other very early units?

 

[phatmateo]

OutOfTune....what cap from mouser did you order for the 38pf?  I think I'm going to just try a 39pf 2% mica cap.  I'm not an expert on how that will effect the sound so I figured I'd ask first before I soldered it in

 

[Siegfried Meier]

The BOM doesn't mention the output, attack or release pots, but I assume these are the same as in the Rev D, no?

Anyone else getting close to having a BOM for Digikey/Mouser done?

Thanks,
Sig

 

[orangerec]

I'm currently building an mnats RevA 1176 and noticed there is a X and Y pad on the meter switch, like the G1176 I previously built. I couldn't find a X or Y pad on the main board. I also noticed on the RevD board it's the same issue. On the RevA there is a TP10 and TP11 pad. Are these the connections for the meter boards X and Y pads? I'm sure I'm missing something that someone could point out. Yes, I did a search with no luck. :-[

 

[Echo North]

Hey,

The X and Y connections are Pin 2 and 3 on the XLR out.  I don't think it matters which is which.

Thanks,

Mike

Edit: This is only true of the meter board connections.  The Output Transformer connections are phase dependent (blue + and Red -).

 

[Rob Flinn]

Hey,

The X and Y connections are Pin 2 and 3 on the XLR out.  I don't think it matters which is which.

Thanks,

Mike

I guess that would depend on whether you consider phase to be an issue !  ;-)

 

[Echo North]

I don't think phase is an issue here (I could be wrong).

The X and Y are carrying the output audio signal to the meter PCB for VU monitoring...X and Y are used to read the voltage difference between pins 2 and 3 then it's displayed on the meter, so phase isn't important here (the leads from the output transformer to X and Y are important for phase).

From the MNats page:
"It isn't crucial that you get X and Y to their respective pads on the meter board, but try to for sake of thoroughness and general accuracy."

Again I could be wrong so please let me know if I am. 

Mike

 

[orangerec]

Mike,
Thanks for the help. You're right according to mnats' website it doesn't matter which is which when connecting the X Y pad. Maybe you could help me with my other issue? Is it possible to wire a regular 10k audio pot for the input? I know it's recommended to use the T pad attenuator but I noticed there is an "H" pad before the input transformer. I'm confused on how to use this H pad and an input pot. Thanks.

 

[Rob Flinn]

I don't think phase is an issue here (I could be wrong).

The X and Y are carrying the output audio signal to the meter PCB for VU monitoring...X and Y are used to read the voltage difference between pins 2 and 3 then it's displayed on the meter, so phase isn't important here (the leads from the output transformer to X and Y are important for phase).

From the MNats page:
"It isn't crucial that you get X and Y to their respective pads on the meter board, but try to for sake of thoroughness and general accuracy."

Again I could be wrong so please let me know if I am. 

Mike

Mike I misunderstood your comment.

 

[Echo North]

Actually my first post is very misleading and I would hate some to do a search and think I was speaking about the output transformer.

I've edited it to avoid confusion.

Thanks for the catch Rob!

Mike

 

[Stagefright13]

Always check the phase in your DAW after you build something. At least I do just in case I goofed somewhere...

And trust me that is often!!!!! So I stock up on solderwick!

 

[Stagefright13]

Just use a shielded cable
for the X/Y

 

[Stagefright13]

I would use the T-pad from Mike. No sense building a 1176 without it.

 

[orangerec]

Yes, Stagefright13, I'll end up using a T pad. I was just wondering if a normal pot could be configured to work like on the G1176.

 

[ethervalve]

Hi folks,

I used this 1uf 63v WIMA film cap: http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=MKS2-1.0/63/5virtualkey50520000virtualkey505-MKS21.0/63/5
for C17 in my revA board. I recently noticed that mnats' photo shows an electrolytic in C17. And after looking through other folks' revD boards (i *think* C17 does the same thing in that circuit), it seems like everyone uses an electrolytic in that spot. There are no spacing issues... was the wima a bad choice?
Thanks in advance for any advice

 

[orangerec]

I've decided to do the pushbutton version of the 1176 instead of the rotary version. Mnats has such good directions on his site that I think I can pull it off. I'm about to order the package from Hairball Audio but I noticed that it doesn't include the switched for the ratio and meter bank. Could someone share a part number for the switches they've used? I'm about to put in an order for Mouser or even Digikey and don't want to order the wrong parts. Thanks.

 

[Echo North]

Not sure what you mean?

Do you mean the attack knob with a bypass switch?

If so - Mouser part #3152415F25K

I sell the push button switches:
http://hairballaudio.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=30

They are also in the Kit:
http://hairballaudio.com/shop/index.php?cPath=22

Mike