[BUILD] 1176 Rev A - Back to the beginning...

[orangerec]

Wow, you're quick. Yes, I just realized that. Sorry for the post. I love the kit, everything I need. I have builts mnats' rotary slam mode on my G1176, I am assuming the "nuke" or "slam" mode also works on the buttons clone? Thank the gods for this forum and you experts.  I have learned more in the last 6 months!!!

 

[Echo North]

[quote author=orangerec]
I am assuming the "nuke" or "slam" mode also works on the buttons clone?
[/quote]

Yep!

Just like the original...push all 4 ratio buttons in at the same time.

Mike

 

[orangerec]

Hey Mike,

I just ordered a kit from Hairball. Thanks for your help.

 

[Echo North]

Hey thanks!

I'll get it out tomorrow.

Looking forward to see some completed Rev A's!

Mike

 

[phatmateo]

Would anyone be willing to post some work in progress pictures for their 1176 rev A?  Im working on a wiring diagram with push buttons and want to make sure all is well before I dive in   I've studied the schematic, but some parts are unclear to me.  I greatly appreciate the help Mike has given.  I've learned a lot so far.  Building Seventh Circle Audio Pre's/guitar fx are nothing compared to this hehe 

 

[Echo North]

One thing worth looking at would be Skylar's pictures in the RevD thread (around page 28).

The A and the D have the same wiring layout.

He had great wiring diagrams on that page but the links appear to be dead.

I'll be posting pictures of my completed RevD's in that thread in the next day or so.

Or just let us know what seems unclear and we'll help you out! 

Mike

Edit:  Here are those pics
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=20058.520

 

[phatmateo]

Thanks Mike!  Those pictures were helpful....just wish those wiring links weren't dead.  I emailed skylar to see if he still had them somewhere.  I'll wait to ask any questions until after I see your finished unit.  I don't want to be too bothersome

 

[Stagefright13]

Just use the schematic and all will be well. The REV A is quite different. here is a pic. Altho I am missing a couple caps and such. Rev D on right and REV A on left.

I put a tant 6.8 in the power supply section. Should I use an electrolytic? I put as many carbon resistors as i had in the rev A. After I get it working I may change them all to carbons in the audio section. Will be awesome fun. Thanks Mako! You rock!!

 

[Stagefright13]

Just wanted to show that the boards may be the same size but the rev A is a different animal. I'm excited to try it! Can't wait. TONS of work went into a new design obviously!!

 

[orangerec]

Hey Stagefright13,
I was wondering if you could supply a part number for the shield or heatsink around Q6. I'm having a bitch of a time searching on Mouser. Thanks.

 

[0dbfs]

Hey Stagefright13,
I was wondering if you could supply a part number for the shield or heatsink around Q6. I'm having a bitch of a time searching on Mouser. Thanks.

This one should fit:
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=578305B00000Gvirtualkey53210000virtualkey532-578305B00

 

[orangerec]

Thanks man ;D

 

[orangerec]

The output pot needs to be 250k Log (audio) taper. Having a hard time finding one in stock. Anyone have a part number? I might be looking up the wrong one. What are you guys using?

 

[Echo North]

Mouser part# 31VJ503-F

 

[plabass]

Anyone got a BOM on this with a bit more information? Voltage requirements on caps, cap types, etc. Someone's mouser/allied/digikey shopping cart would be pretty outstanding... Just want to make sure I get everything right.

 

[0dbfs]

I've got a complete BOM that I will post once I go back through and check a couple items.
I have seen it mentioned that electro's should be rated close to operating voltage instead of over-rated. Does this matter? Ie; using a 100V electro in a position that will not exceed 35V (better to use an electro rated closer to 35 + a couple)?

Thx,
Jonathan

[EDIT]
Here is a BOM I put together to help myself understand all of the components:

http://diy.dbfsforge.com/mnats_d1176/mnats_1176_revA_BOM_DUAL_jonathan-burtner.xls

I referred both to the schematics, the boards, and various other threads.

Please be sure to check that these components are adequate for your particular needs before ordering.

Shoot me an email or PM if you find there is anything worth changing and I will update the list with a new version.

Cheers,
jonathan

 

[orangerec]

Ok, I'm close. I got signal passing through my revA, which sounds great...no hum buzzing and full bandwidth passing. I put it up on a program called SMAART and the phase trace and frequency response is great. Well, I have one issue, my meter works great on output +4 or +8 (I built the pushbutton model) but switching to gain reduction mode leaves me high and dry. I can hear the FET working and being effected by the Q bias trim but no metering. Any direction would be great. I am assuming it would be on the GR Meter driver.

 

[orangerec]

Update: I changed out the 2n5088 in the q12 and q13 positions and I'm using the extra pad mnats suggested for the 2n5088, but no luck. I have been following Skylar's wiring diagram and the Hairball pushbutton switch diagram and have triple checked it. Since I'm able to see output, I followed the Q bias calibration to spec. Still no GR metering??? Little embarrassed here but what is TP10 and TP11 on the GR Meter Driver for?

 

[Echo North]

Is it stuck at 0db or pined left?

Check R44.  With my D I turned this trimmer one too many times and damaged it...had similar issues.

Mike

 

[orangerec]

pinned to the left when in GR mode. gonna check R44 now, thanks for the direction. more later...