[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[kato]

I made a parts list with links to the parts at digikey/mouser → here

[edit]switched from PDF to html because making new pdfs with each new edit is a pain. if you downloaded the pdf, the version above incorporates mnats revisions below...[/edit]

not verified. i can't promise that this is complete or accurate - but I will do my best to update it as errors are found.

If anyone would like to suggest better or more appropriate parts for certain values, please do.

 

[zul_nalury]

Nice job Kato...

 

[mnats]

Good work on that parts list. You made some premium choices there: multiturn trimmers, polyprop film caps...

Unfortunately, I made an of error on my parts list. There should be one more 2k trimmer, R44 and one less 1k resistor of the same designation (it was a late revision to the board). Also, I would suggest that C23 not be a tantalum as it sits right across the 30V rail (reasons have been raised here). An electrolytic rounded up to the nearest common value would probably be better there.

Thanks for your efforts! Is it OK to add a link from the 1st post and maybe to link from my Rev D page?

Oh shit, one other thing. The output transistor should have a heat sink attached. I'm going to give this one a try...

Since someone keeps raising the matching question does anyone have an idea why the schematic suggests matching Q5, the small signal transistor and Q6, the medium power output transistor (circuit posted on page 2 of this thread)?

 

[kato]

Thanks Mnats - feel free to link to it - or download and host it yourself - although I will leave it there indefinitely.

[quote author="mnats"]Good work on that parts list. You made some premium choices there: multiturn trimmers, polyprop film caps...
[/quote]

That might be a newbie maneuver. Since I don't know which portions of the circuit are critical - I throw quality parts in every corner. Let me know if there are less critical components where a cheaper part should be specified.

 

[JdJ]

Just wanted to say thanks to Kato and Mako- you guys make this stuff too easy! Nice job on the BOM!

BTW is everyone else seeing scrambled avatars?

Cheers
:guinness: :guinness: :guinness:

Josh

 

[kazper]

Was the UTC 0-12 input transformer sort of able to be replaced with the cinimag cmmi-2c in backwards....?

 

[Bri]

Kato- In your BOM, a few of the resistor part numbers "271-2.7M-RC," "271-10M-RC," and "271-1.2M-RC," for example, show as "no results found" on Mouser's site. Did you mean, for example, "291-2.7M-RC"....1/4watt carbon film resistor(5% tolerance)?

I'm not complaining in any way...I appreciated your parts list very much. I just wanted to be sure.

Also, does anyone have a source for the 600ohm "T" Attenuator?
Perhaps added to the up-and-coming(hopefully) xformer group buy?

--Brian
:guinness:

 

[Lowfreq]

[quote author="kato"]I throw quality parts in every corner. Let me know if there are less critical components where a cheaper part should be specified.[/quote]
I was wondering that too. I orded wimas for all the poly's in my last 1176, but from the pics of Mako's rev D board, I only see 2 wimas, and the rest look like the poly's from jaycar or dick smith.(southern hemisphere DIYers will understand)

I'll have a closer look at the schem, just to educate myself a little better.
I'm slowly getting better at understanding them.

A little off topic. A well known (well in NZ) engineer/producer borrowed my Mnats G1176(lundahl loaded) to use in a session. Kinda daunting for a bedroom studio engineer seeing it alongside a bunch of real 1176's in a real studio :shock: , but his resonses were "Nice work" and "I like it!!"

I told him I was looking at the rev D version, and He's really keen to hear that too, once it's built.

Righto, as you were

 

[jho-audio]

Will the DC gapped JLM 1:1:1 output transformer work in place of the UA5002? http://www.jlmaudio.com/JLM111DC_Output_Transformer.htm

 

[mnats]

[quote author="jho-audio"]Will the DC gapped JLM 1:1:1 output transformer work in place of the UA5002? http://www.jlmaudio.com/JLM111DC_Output_Transformer.htm[/quote]
Check this post. Though I think Ed should be along with the right transformer soon.

BTW, kato - I did mean C23 shouldn't be tant, not C19 and C20 too as these don't sit across the 30V rail and low leakage are specified here. Even though I've been told most modern electros are much lower leakage the leakage current is still higher than a typical tantalum. I should probably separate them on my own parts list...

 

[thenovice]

[quote author="edanderson"][quote author="Rob Flinn"]Greg

That looks really good ! Nice & compact.

One thing. I'm wondering why you didn't take the opportunity to use 25 turn trimmers, which make the 1176 much easier to set up?[/quote]

i second this idea. multiturn trimmers make a big difference; hopefully your new layout can accept a few kinds of trimpots. i would also change the selected (usually around 1k) GR meter calibration resistor to a 2kohm trimmer in series with a 100ohm resistor. this makes the GR meter calibration easier.

i don't suppose there is room for the pcb mount input transformer?

board looks very nice, btw.

everyone should realize that for max performance you'll need the specialized output transformer. a simple gapped 1:1 could probably substitute acceptably. purple will not be selling the output transformers after the new year, but i've posted the cinemag part number before. if there is enough interest, perhaps i can arrange some kind of group order.

ed[/quote]

those were PN:

cinemag pa96731
&
cm96731-A

correct?

 

[kato]

[quote author="Bri"]Kato- In your BOM, a few of the resistor part numbers "271-2.7M-RC," "271-10M-RC," and "271-1.2M-RC," for example, show as "no results found" on Mouser's site. Did you mean, for example, "291-2.7M-RC"....1/4watt carbon film resistor(5% tolerance)?
[/quote]

Thanks Brian! I didn't click every link. I created them by search-and-replace so thanks for the heads up!

[quote author="mnats"]
BTW, kato - I did mean C23 shouldn't be tant, not C19 and C20 too as these don't sit across the 30V rail and low leakage are specified here. Even though I've been told most modern electros are much lower leakage the leakage current is still higher than a typical tantalum. I should probably separate them on my own parts list...[/quote]

Thanks Mako - C23 is electro, C19 and C20 are tant - got it.

Parts list updated to reflect above two changes. Keep 'em coming. I'll continue updating as needed.

Tantalums currently specified have ESR value of 2.5 Ohms and voltage rating of 35v. Kermet brand, 67¢ ea. Is lower ESR required/preferred? Let me know; I know not dick about tantalums. These are cheaper than the previously specified AVX brand which were twice the price.

 

[ChrioN]

Boards recieved and they look stunning. The layout is exellent, nice modular feel to it with all the different parts squared in.

 

[strangeandbouncy]

Please don't shout at me if I am missing the bleedin' obvious . . .

can anyone please be so kind as to point me to the circuit diagram for this particular version?

and, yes, I have searched and searched - can;t actually read the version i have found, which is incomplete anyway(cut off on the rhs)


many thanks!


ANdyP

 

[Bri]

Ignore me if you know this already.

Mnats has a link to his "Revision D" information in the first post of this thread:
"Some documentation including self-etch files can be found on my site."

That link takes you to his "Building The DIY 1176LN Revision D page."
On the top left of the page is:"Revision D PDF File (includes self-etch files and bill of materials)"
Clicking on this opens the PDF file containing the schematic.

Here's a link to it.

The circuit diagram is on page 5.

This is the only one I'm aware of. Hopefully it's not the one you're having trouble with.

Cheers.

--Brian

 

[mnats]

Pretty sure the big 1176 document is still posted at the JBL Professional site. Also, the Purple site should have a schematic for their version on their PDF. But yeah, the PDF linked from my Rev D page is the actual schemo used to lay out my boards. It is missing the input circuit because there are so many choices you could make and none of them are included on the board.

Parts list updated to reflect above two changes. Keep 'em coming. I'll continue updating as needed.

I would go for the YB version of the Vishay/Sfernice trimmers, because the offset pin will give a little more mechanical stability.

But it brings up something that I have been thinking about for a while. Not that I'm ungrateful, but I never really liked parts lists like this, because part of the fun of DIY is choosing which parts you want to use in your project.

 

[kato]

[quote author="mnats"]
I would go for the YB version of the Vishay/Sfernice trimmers, because the offset pin will give a little more mechanical stability.

But it brings up something that I have been thinking about for a while. Not that I'm ungrateful, but I never really liked parts lists like this, because part of the fun of DIY is choosing which parts you want to use in your project.[/quote]

I agree completely. I made the list for myself. And thought it might be useful for a few others. But I never wanted it to be considered any kind of officially sanctioned by mnats parts list. You may consider removing your link to it in the first post to avoid that appearance.

I am still quite new at diy. My first 1176 channel was built using Greg's parts list and as a newbie I found it incredibly helpful; I had no confidence facing a 1700 pg mouser catalog - I didn't know where to begin. My own parts list is suspiciously reminiscent of his in that I use the same panasonic/epcos ceramics. They served me well and I now rely on that epcos page in the mouser catalog as if a friend personally recommended them.

Your suggestion of the YB series trimmers is also helpful. I will try them for myself. Again, a friend (you) recommended them and I may learn something from that suggestion.

I want to hear suggestions about my parts list as a learning experience for myself and others. But not as a we unanimously agree on these parts lemming line. I expect the majority of builders to choose their own parts - and for the minority who want a convenient north american parts list, I hope it will serve as a starting point.

Thanks for bringing that up. And thanks again for sharing this project.

Kato

 

[strangeandbouncy]

many thnaks for the links.

All makes sense now. I do have a couple of 600r constant impedence attenuators, but was wondering if anyone has a source for more since I use them a lot for turning down cthe output of overdriven preamps Also, i cannnot establish what impedance/ratio the O-12 input transformer is. Will 600:600 do, or 600:150? I have some Gardners 600:300 . . .

this is so cool, i LOVE the class A version SO much more than the later ones. Way to Go!

All the best,


ANdyP

 

[safe as milk]

hi

link for 0-12 info

http://vacuumbrain.com/docs/Sub_Docs/utc.html

cheers cj

 

[flaheu]

I'm more concerned by the input attenuator :sad:
Mnats can you tell more about

B version of the Vishay/Sfernice trimmers

Is that a "special" assembled atten/pot stuff ?.

Available somewhere ?

Cheers