[build] Dripelectronics.com LA2A pcb v3 (atoms) build thread.

[VoiceOverMike]

Greg has everything over at his website.
http://www.dripelectronics.com/

 

[jeerzee]

I'd rather hear from the few in this thread that have completed
the vers3
I'd specifically like to know if the redesigning greg mentioned
that he did,changed the tone any

 

[JoleFIN]

Yeah, how is it guys? I'm hungry to get to make one

 

[Bill Kahler]

All I can say is I love mine - very smooth and quiet ad subtle to not so subtle. So far I've mostly used it on vocals. Plannin on mking stereo linked pair and trying mixes, overgeads.

I also have a reissue UA 1176 blackface and I like the drip LA better.

And, Gregory is a super nice guy.

 

[VoiceOverMike]

I'm very happy with mine also, it sounds delicious and very quite. It worked perfectly from the moment I plugged it in.

 

[jeerzee]

Did you guy's go with the sowter input and output?
and did you use the allied pwr transformer?

 

[VoiceOverMike]

Yes and Yes

 

[madriaanse]

Quick question on VU meters:

I want to use this meter:
http://www.multimeter.com/index.php?&Class=4&SubClass=008&Model=00015&PartNumber=001990020100202#

Just order the "Backlit Incandescent 6V" and connect to the PCB's "Lamp" pads, right? Or is this where the NE-2 goes?

Thanks!!

M.

 

[VoiceOverMike]

YES connect to where it says "Lamp / 6V"  Remember that's "6V A.C". NE-2 is for the neon bulb to regulate voltage in the metering section. (Note: page 72 on the instruction/build manual)

 

[madriaanse]

great; thanks for clarifying!!

M.

 

[JoleFIN]

Does somebody have the rev3 PDF of LA2A? I'd like to take a look so I could roughly get an estimate of the workload and such... heard it's easy with Drip's instructions but I just made my first DIY (GSSL, which turned out pretty nice btw ) and am really not that sure about my skills. But I'm hungry to build more!

So if someone could email me the PDF (couldn't get the lomayesva.com link to work... file not found?) to
info ( at ) joelkalsi . com
it would be great!

Been lurking around here a lot lately but trying to make more conversation in future

Greez,
- Jole

 

[jeerzee]

www.dripelectronics.com
under view a product choose LA2 PCB
scroll down to the right is the pdf documentation

 

[jeerzee]

Hey VOM
what enclosure did you settle for?
I have the PCB and I'm very impressed so far
I can't wait to start stuffing her(LOL, ;D you know what I mean)
I'm currently going through the BOM and the PCB and see the discrepancies people are
talking about. But I would guess that the component labeling on the PCB is what needs to be followed
Any tips would be appreciated

 

[VoiceOverMike]

I use and old 5" high aluminum enclosure I had. I installed a new face and back plate and drilled and cut away. I'm not finished with the cosmetic work yet (been very busy these days) but once I get it to my specs I'll post a pic.
Purusha's cases would be the way to go if you don't have tools and bit's to do the work. http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=19428.0

I know Greg has mentioned that he was going to make corrections to the BOM and build sheet, but I don't know if he has of to date.
The discrepancies are well documented on this board and his site, but they are minor in detail and anyone with careful reading and connecting of the dots can figure them out. But these discrepancies mostly amount to part quantities.

My biggest piece of advice is to know and understand the PBC.
Order all your caps and resisters at the same time- once you receive them check each resister on a meter and mark their respective bags, also check and verify the caps too.  When I stuffed the board I check each resistor again before placing. This redundancy of verifying every cap and resister made for a completely error and trouble free build for me.

 

[JoleFIN]

Jeerzee, ahh thanks! I don't know how blind a man can be, I must have taken a look at there at least 5 times without seeing the documentation link. Even now I read the border paragraph fully through to see if the link is there, and by the end I finally noticed the link at the bottom. Must have been too much wiring and soldering lately to not be able to see the full picture. ;D

 

[jeerzee]

Your Welcome
LOL! same **** happened to ME!

 

[jeerzee]

VOM
Purusha's cases do look great but I'm in the USA and
had trouble with the banking transfer service
I was unable to complete the transaction
Pity, but not the end of the world
I'll be ordering a hammond or par metal(located in Jeerzee)
How do you plan on handling the labeling/screening?
c11 is still missing on the cross reference sheet
and 6.8k is still listed on the BOM
also the 150pf(C14 250pf) is only listed in the comments section
I'm pretty much still going over the pcb and the BOM
but I'll be ordering soon and I'm totally psyched
Did use any carbon comps or special caps?

 

[VoiceOverMike]

Screening the face and or back is not a problem for me, I have a friend in the biz and I can get a screen for cost.
But I'm looking to do something a little different.

C11- Check the build sheet page 23 also note the comments on page 27. I used a .01pf 600v orange drop in C11, a Sozo cap would be nice here too (I may try one later). I did however use Sozo caps in in C2 and C3, very happy with this choice. 
If you use Orange Drops, they will need to be 600v, as noted in the BOM. You will however run into a problem trying to fit the Orange Drops in the footprint areas of C8a and C8b, C6 and C12, and in the area of C9, it can get a little chummy. I would seek out ceramic caps for these --again as noted in the build sheet and BOM.

C14, I used 150pf, you can also order a 250pf and change out later if you like, or go with the ARCO 465 variable mica trimming capacitors and remove all doubt.

 

[canidoit]

sorry , ive been meaning to update the manual ,
as feed back and questions arrive.

Drips I have just bought your La2a version 3 board and downloaded the manual just now. Is this the latest manual that has been updated, especially the BOM list.

 

[DIYnoob!]

good question