[BUILD] TBDD

[MicDaddy]

Just another one here that was/is considering racking up your 500 version.

 

[fazeka]

Not needing to worry about metalwork or any precise mechanical details sure makes things easier.

As the young-uns say, +1  ;D

 

[dandeurloo]

looks great!

 

[horvitz]

Some updates -

First, final pricing for the all-inclusive TBDD 500 kit is set at $365.

I have absolutely everything here and am ready to ship however, as I mentioned before, there was a problem with the PCBs.  My question for you guys is, do you want to wait, or would you like to buy it as is for a discount?  The fix on the current board doesn't involve any trace cutting or anything, just strap a cap across a resistor in a couple of places.  If anyone wants, I could sell those right now and would offer a discount of $15.

Also, I've been working quite a bit on the rack version.  Coming along real nice and I should have something to show shortly.  It will be some months before I can ship, but I just want to let you all know in case you were thinking about racking the 500 version and might want to do this instead.  The rack version will also be available without all the parts if you'd rather do it that way.

Whatcha think?

 

[rob_gould]

I can live with the discounted version I'd say. How many corrections are there? How fiddly are they? They don't affect the profile of the card do they (in terms of pressing against cards either side of TBDD)?

How much is shipping to the UK?

Cheers

 

[horvitz]

I can live with the discounted version I'd say. How many corrections are there? How fiddly are they? They don't affect the profile of the card do they (in terms of pressing against cards either side of TBDD)?

How much is shipping to the UK?

They are totally out of the way, Rob.  We're just talking a ceramic cap across a resistor, can be done real nice and clean.  There are four of them to do.

Shipping to the everywhere except US/Can/Mex is $33.37 for one and $37.15 for two via USPS Priority.

 

[horvitz]

Before anyone makes a purchasing decision, I want to make sure you all know what you're getting into in terms of calibration.  In order to really properly calibrate the unit, you must use an oscilloscope. This is includes the BBD bias and clock cancel.  Now, if you don't have a scope, I believe that you can get close enough for government work.

The schematic states to set the BBD bias voltage at -7.5V.  If I more correctly bias the BBD (you want to set it for equal clipping), it has every time so far been very close to -7.5V.  So if you just set it with your DMM, I think you'll be fine.

On the clock cancel, you zoom in on the clock residual just after the BBD and adjust until it's as small as possible.  Typically this has been within a turn or two of the center of the trimmer.  So again, if you don't have a scope, you can get pretty close by just setting the trimmer in the middle and leaving it at that.

So, consider all that.  Want to make sure that nobody is surprised when they get to the calibration and find out they need a tool that they don't have.

 

[fazeka]

Before anyone makes a purchasing decision, I want to make sure you all know what you're getting into in terms of calibration.  In order to really properly calibrate the unit, you must use an oscilloscope. This is includes the BBD bias and clock cancel.  Now, if you don't have a scope, I believe that you can get close enough for government work.

The schematic states to set the BBD bias voltage at -7.5V.  If I more correctly bias the BBD (you want to set it for equal clipping), it has every time so far been very close to -7.5V.  So if you just set it with your DMM, I think you'll be fine.

On the clock cancel, you zoom in on the clock residual just after the BBD and adjust until it's as small as possible.  Typically this has been within a turn or two of the center of the trimmer.  So again, if you don't have a scope, you can get pretty close by just setting the trimmer in the middle and leaving it at that.

So, consider all that.  Want to make sure that nobody is surprised when they get to the calibration and find out they need a tool that they don't have.

Also have no problem with calibration, I got my scope and my DMM. I should be set!

Thanks Brian!

 

[fazeka]

Also wanted to add for those looking to do the rack version that there's obviously less worry of power needs within the VPR spec wrt the meter being in bar mode with all 10 lit...

 

[horvitz]

Also wanted to add for those looking to do the rack version that there's obviously less worry of power needs within the VPR spec wrt the meter being in bar mode with all 10 lit...

Certainly the recommendation is to run it in dot mode if this is any sort of concern.  Really, the chances of a rack completely full of units drawing the max power are pretty darn slim so there is most likely a little juice to spare.  A chance is a chance, though.

 

[Biasrocks]

I'm ready to jump on this, but I'm going to wait for the rack mount version.

If I only had a couple of open slots, I'd be all over it!

Regards,
Mark

 

[horvitz]

If I only had a couple of open slots, I'd be all over it!

Well, you need another rack!!  ;D

In other news, the new corrected board should be shipping on 10/22.

 

[fazeka]

Certainly the recommendation is to run it in dot mode if this is any sort of concern.  Really, the chances of a rack completely full of units drawing the max power are pretty darn slim so there is most likely a little juice to spare.  A chance is a chance, though.

You're right, that's true. I didn't consider that.

Still like Mark, I don't have any more open slots and (as sad as it is to admit) I don't have room for another GDIY51x rack... 

 

[okgb]

I'd say if running a 51x rack power won't be a problem , and really
the biggest concern between the two versions is the faceplate
I was considering getting two , and likely racking , which I was prepared to do with the 500 ,
so now not sure whether to wait , or get a better deal ?
I t IS exciting though , thanks Brian !

 

[kante1603]

I'd say if running a 51x rack power won't be a problem

Hello,

yes,that's what I think too.
As long as you're aware of how much current you have in summary per rack from the other modules it should be o.k..Don't forget  that some of the popular modules draw way less current than the specified 130 mA/ rail,I have some at around only 60 mAs (o.k.,no inrush current considered here).
Personally I'd go for the 500 series,having a dimension d in such a small place must be awesome!

Best regards,

Udo.

 

[horvitz]

Maybe this will help.  Completely unnecessary rendering which doesn't help me design at all but sure looks neat 

You can see how things will go together in a modular fashion so that you can fit it to your case however you think is clever.  Still really a lot of work to do, but you get the idea.

 

[rob_gould]

For those that are ready to buy the 500 series version, will you be resurrecting the White Market thread?

Cheers

Rob

 

[horvitz]

For those that are ready to buy the 500 series version, will you be resurrecting the White Market thread?

Yes, as soon as they're ready to go.  At this point, pretty much nobody has expressed interest in the misprints so rather than just have 1 or 2 boards out there with mistakes, I'm going to wait until the correct boards come in so they're all right.  Should be maybe 2 weeks or so.

 

[fazeka]

Hi Brian,

The renderings are great, IMO.

I know again this may get some head-scratching due to there not being a lot of controls to worry about other than a pot, 4 pushbuttons a couple of LEDs and a switch or two but any thoughts yet on metal work for the rack version, i.e., faceplate?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[horvitz]

I know again this may get some head-scratching due to there not being a lot of controls to worry about other than a pot, 4 pushbuttons a couple of LEDs and a switch or two but any thoughts yet on metal work for the rack version, i.e., faceplate?

Any thoughts?  Yes, thoughts   There is a chance that metalwork will be available but I don't want to promise anything there yet.  If not, there will definitely be at least an fpd for people to work from with the proper dimensions.

I can see that people may want to do different things with this so they may want to do their own metalwork.  Blend or not?  Meter or not?  Or a different meter?  A single rotary switch rather than the pushbuttons?  I thought it would be cool for someone to do a super minimal 1U panel with nothing but a single knob.  Could be done..