ForthMonkey
Well-known member
Boards arrived!
CHEAP!RE V3 "Updated"
- Thread starter ForthMonkey
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
I´m very interested to hear how the first PCBs are and if you could make the pre work.
If it´s successful I´m going to build a four channel box. I like the choice of all the options you implemented!
I thought about mounting the PCBs horizontal in a chassis, but loaded with two transformers it might be too heavy as it´s "just" mounted via the gain pot and the DI input. What do you think?
Maybe you consider two holes on the opposite pcb side of the frontpanel, for using standoffs?
cheers
Eric
If it´s successful I´m going to build a four channel box. I like the choice of all the options you implemented!
I thought about mounting the PCBs horizontal in a chassis, but loaded with two transformers it might be too heavy as it´s "just" mounted via the gain pot and the DI input. What do you think?
Maybe you consider two holes on the opposite pcb side of the frontpanel, for using standoffs?
cheers
Eric
ForthMonkey
Well-known member
cromwell said:
Now i'm working on trafoless version.Waiting for components.But iprovlek will build it with trafos.So we can see that it's working or not.In theory there is no error.
About board placement,PCB rails could be good solution.
I was thinking to add holes but i didn't find place to add holes.
ForthMonkey
Well-known member
Updated.
ForthMonkey
Well-known member
Updated!
Sounds cool!!!
What kind of DOA where you using?
Did you use a trim pot or stepped attenuator?
Btw: For the stepped attanuator option, what kind of switch did you have in mind, Lorlin 1 x 12 or something else?
Sure it doesn´t matter for wiring to the board, but maybe there is a switch that fits to the pcb without wiring?
Where did you order your boards, do you sell them as well?
Cheers
Eric
What kind of DOA where you using?
Did you use a trim pot or stepped attenuator?
Btw: For the stepped attanuator option, what kind of switch did you have in mind, Lorlin 1 x 12 or something else?
Sure it doesn´t matter for wiring to the board, but maybe there is a switch that fits to the pcb without wiring?
Where did you order your boards, do you sell them as well?
Cheers
Eric
ForthMonkey
Well-known member
cromwell said:
I used UREI MOD1 DOA and simple pot.
I used Grayhill(Adjustable stop.11 position) for design.With pushbutton switches it's hard to use Lorlin.Cause there is no room for Lorlin.But if you wire all of them (toggle switches,di input jack and gain switch),you can use Lorlin.Grahill switch about $18 at CAPI.I will use switches with my other builds.But for now first two build with pot.And it's hard to find 22KC pot.Only found 25KC at Mammothelectronics.
I designed my own self.Now i have 8 boards to sell.But not tried mic input yet.Cause i'm waiting for switches.Then i will sell.
And boards are small.100x100mm.Easy to convert 500 series with adapter board.
Yep you are right the greyhill makes sense, didn´t come into my mind;-)
Have you already calculated the stepped resistors, just interested in what you are going for.
I´m interested in four boards depending on how much they will cost.
Cheers
Eric
ForthMonkey
Well-known member
cromwell said:
Yes,i have calculated resistors.I will add to first post.
€45 for 4 boards including shipping.
I just checked the Greyhill footprint.
Correct me if I´m wrong, but I think it will not fit perfectly.
There is a plastic bar that holds the 12 pins, this bar would sit directly on the pcb when the switch is seated.
I think there isn´t enough space between the switch plastic bar and the RG1 - RG3 resistors.
Or those resitors have to me mounted from the bottom side.
And there are two other pins in front of the 12 pin bar, were I think the holes/contacts are missing.
But maybe I´m to dumb to understand;-)
Here is the Greyhill spec sheet:
http://www.grayhill.com/assets/1/7/Rotary_71.pdf
Cheers
Eric
Correct me if I´m wrong, but I think it will not fit perfectly.
There is a plastic bar that holds the 12 pins, this bar would sit directly on the pcb when the switch is seated.
I think there isn´t enough space between the switch plastic bar and the RG1 - RG3 resistors.
Or those resitors have to me mounted from the bottom side.
And there are two other pins in front of the 12 pin bar, were I think the holes/contacts are missing.
But maybe I´m to dumb to understand;-)
Here is the Greyhill spec sheet:
http://www.grayhill.com/assets/1/7/Rotary_71.pdf
Cheers
Eric
ForthMonkey
Well-known member
cromwell said:
The most important thing about this design that you have to solder some components to bottom side.Gain switch and frontend's resistors must be placed to bottom side.Then Grayhill switch will fit as it should be.
ForthMonkey
Well-known member
Added mic input samples!
ForthMonkey
Well-known member
DjaiTeam said:
Board is 100x100mm.I believe it's easy to adapt to 51x.
And it's my frontpanel for 500 or 51x seris.
ForthMonkey
Well-known member
Racking it!
iprovlek
Well-known member
Here is potentiometer for this preamp!
http://eu.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=2-51can-d20-g17
Cheers!!!
http://eu.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=2-51can-d20-g17
Cheers!!!
ForthMonkey
Well-known member
iprovlek said:Here is potentiometer for this preamp!
http://eu.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=2-51can-d20-g17
Cheers!!!
Thanks!
I bought from Futurelec.But it's 20KC.It's OK,i guess.
http://www.futurlec.com/PotRot.shtml
iprovlek
Well-known member
Great ForthMonkey!!!
8)
8)
