cheapest CNC machine for front panels?

[Gold]

I just got this today :

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3960&category=1387807683

I cant wait to start drilling and cutting out !

Can you give a little sales pitch on why you chose that one over other options?

The thing that worries me about buying sight unseen is the quality of the ways. If the table travel isn't nice and smooth I doubt you'll be able to do nice looking cutouts. My experience with cheap cross slide tables has not been good.

 

[ChuckD]

Not sure yet, I need to get it going and try it for myself first but I bought this one because mainly it is the Harbor Freight Sieg X2 but these guys have already done all the mods to stiffen the column, put a belt drive on , change out the motor spindle and put a larger table on it. This makes up for the increased price.

Also I chose a X2 over a Enco due to noise and weight. Since it is in my garage and will only see light use.
But the big reason is that there is a clear proven path to CNC with add on kits to get you everything you need. One of a few examples are at cnczone.com they have kits to convert these machines and have made it easy for you to do. I would rather not do any custom work to convert this later as the machine itself is not my hobby.

I will report back when I start doing stuff.

Chuck

 

[Gold]

The one that has looked the best to me is the Taig. The manual version is about the same price. Getting it to CNC almost triples the price from the factory. Maybe the DIY kits are significantly cheaper for yours?

The table looks the best built out of the ones I've seen but of course it's hard to tell on the web. I like that it has a belt drive spindle with an actual quoted runout spec. I think you might be able to engrave with that. I can't quite believe that the Chinese and Taiwanese manufacturers don't quote runout specs. Grizzly doesn't and Jet doesn't in their literature. The only question I have is about the rigidity of the column and the overall rigidity. It looks a little lighter that the others.

Did you check out the Taig?

 

[tskguy]

The taigs are very good machines but in terms of cutting ability the little machine shop mill will blow it away. It is a much larger machine. The Taig is a 65 pound machine and the LMS machine is 176 pounds. Also the brushless motor in the LMS mill may not have the rpms but is 500watt and can turn 1/2 cutter no problem. The taig would most likley be more accurate but if the LMS machine was converted to CNC and used ballscrews I am sure it would compete.
Good choice on the LMS machine, I am sure you will be happy. That company has a great reputation on the cnc forums.

Eric

 

[Gus]

Another web site link
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Home/index.htm

 

[Gold]

It is a much larger machine. The Taig is a 65 pound machine and the LMS machine is 176 pounds.

Ahh. I'm getting a better sense of the trade offs between different models and classes of machine. As I get better at figuring out what I really need the choice becomes clearer. What I'd really like is a Bridgeport and an engraving table. Unfortunately I don't have the money, space or real need for a setup that nice.

I have an immediate need to figure out a solution for engraving. I'd like to be able to do it in house. An engraving table setup worth getting (IMO) is out of my price range. I would also like a mill because like Chuck D I want to start out without automation. I'd have to start with automation if I got an engraving table. The mills have more torque but slower spindle speeds, so not so good for engraving.

I think the Taig is the best fit for me because with a spindle speed of 10,000RPM it should be able to do a decent job of engraving and I can start without automation. The biggest downside is the table travel isn't long enough to do a whole 19" panel. Since the table travel will cover more than half I think I could make a mark on the second half and line up and re clamp the workpiece.

Does this make any sense?

 

[gyraf]

I would consider 10.000 rpm to be on the low side for engraving - specially for small (0.2-0.3mm) cutters. I usually run the 0.3's at 35.000rpm (for a feed at some 200mm/minute)

For engraving and light work, the Austrian StepFour machines are pretty good at the price.

I've never found any machine that does both engraving and "real" cutting metal work at anything near a decent price.

Jakob E.

 

[Gold]

I would consider 10.000 rpm to be on the low side for engraving - specially for small (0.2-0.3mm) cutters. I usually run the 0.3's at 35.000rpm (for a feed at some 200mm/minute)

I know it might not work well. I'm hoping that with a slow feed rate it will work. Even if I don't end up engraving with it I think it will be a worthwhile purchase. I also have a need for milling of small things. I really want to start with a manual machine as well. I figure that I will be able to tell whether the Taig can do a clean line with the manual version. If it can't I'm only out $900 and I can still use the machine for other things. If it can I'll get the CNC package.

I also have an NSK hand engraving air spindle. That was may last attempt at avoiding CNC. No go. It runs at 60,000RPM. I could try mounting that on the Taig. Or I could try modifying a Taig with a faster motor/spindle.

For engraving and light work, the Austrian StepFour machines are pretty good at the price.

I don't feel like I know enough to make the right decision on an engraving table. A cheap setup is still pretty expensive. Too expensive to make a mistake. And I want to start with a manual machine. A pantograph is out. Not enough space and no way to deal with a machine that heavy.

P.S I just spoke to Taig and they said that people successfully engrave text with it. I pulled the trigger on a manual machine! Wish me luck.

 

[gyraf]

Good luck - and keep us posted!!!

 

[user 10827]

just for information..

for engraving...

I use .1mm 50deg carbide half-round engraving cutters, DOC = max  .3mm, spindle I run at 4-5k rpm with no issues what so ever, Feed rate of 400-500mm p/min depending on what type of aluminium, and this cutter would typically last 2-3 months working 2-3 days a week.

( also always apply a light coat of WD40 or other light oil or you will get burrs )

if it helps

Pete

 

[Gold]

The Taig arrived on Wednesday. They sent me a bad collet nut. I got a new one today and hope to fire it up this weekend. It's a nice little machine. It looks well built to me.

The leadscrew and ways are nice and smooth. There is a little play in the handle before or after the leadscrew nut moves. Is that what's called "backlash"? Can I adjust the leadscrew nut so that doesn't happen?

 

[Gold]

I just did my first cuts on the Taig. I made a few holes and cut a few slots. This was the first time I've ever cut a slot. They came out nicer than I expected. They have nice smooth edges. I need to do a bunch more experiments with different cutters, especially engraving cutters to make sure the machine is worth automating but my first impression is positive. I have to make a bunch of tooling to hold down the work. I always struggle with clamping the workpiece.

I'm still struggling with the best way to secure flat panels so they can be drilled through. Should I clamp to a sacrificial piece of stock or put it on raised blocks. I like raised blocks like 123 blocks but I'm not sure it will give 1/8" stock enough support. 

 

[Gold]

I just can't contain my excitement. The Taig really works a treat. I had been collecting all sorts of different cutters to try out in my rotary tool, in hopes of getting something useful. I'm now going through the different cutter profiles and trying a bunch of different things with them in the Taig to see what they do under different conditions. It's really fun and I'm doing things easily I struggled with in the past.

I ordered some 80/20 framing to make a stand for it. I'm thinking I might just order a second one set up for CNC and sell whichever one I don't want at the end of this big project. The 80/20 stand will accommodate two machines on top of each other. I don't have much space. I figure I don't need as easy access to the automated one so it can sit below the manual one.

I know the learning curve for the CAD/CAM and Mach3 will be steep. I have a lot of stuff that needs to get done. If I convert the machine I have to CNC I will be twiddling my thumbs while I get up to speed with the automation.

 

[gemini86]

Yeah the play in the lead screw is what is referred to as backlash. This is really bad if you want to make it CNC. If you can't adjust the backlash without adding too much turning resistance, you may have to spend some dough on some nice ball screws, like many others have done.

Glad you've got a great new toy!

 

[Gold]

Yeah the play in the lead screw is what is referred to as backlash. This is really bad if you want to make it CNC. If you can't adjust the backlash without adding too much turning resistance, you may have to spend some dough on some nice ball screws, like many others have done.

Glad you've got a great new toy!

Thanks. I've been having a blast. I've since learned that one of the differences between the manual version and the CNC ready version is an adjustable feed screw nut. The one I have has no adjustment. I read on one of the forums that one guy improved the backlash on the manual version by putting a spring washer between the handle and the piece with the engraved measuring scale. I just placed an order for a whole bunch of fasteners for the 80/20 framing and a couple of different kinds of Bellville disc spring washers. I'll give it a shot.

They say the repeatability with the CNC servo model is 0.0005". That looks like a lot of zeros to me. Apparently fitting ball screws is major surgery and it hasn't been done very often on the Taig. No one makes a kit. Other than that the machine feels smooth and tight. Once the feed nut is engaged the travel along the ways has the same resistance for the length of the ways. No rough spots anywhere.

 

[gentlevoice1]

Hi,

Hope it's ok that I just briefly bump this thread with a somewhat related question: Is there a precise CNC mill - which is accessible price wise (up to ~ USD 800) - that more or less works directly with .stl or similar files? So that I could load e.g. a .stl file and then have the CNC mill do it close to automatically?

I'll be making only smaller items less than 20*20*3 cms (w*h*d) but need them to be very precise in the (small radius) curvatures. Materials may be metals like brass, silver, copper, aluminum, and wood - and it also would be very convenient if it could be used to cut tracks on a PCB.

Best regards,

Jesper

P.S.: A suggestion for a used quality CNC is also very interesting to me ...