D-LA2A Support Thread

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Yes it is....

The board itself looked great Gustav did a fine job reproducing your PCB.

Thanks again!!!

E
 
My version:


Front2.jpg


Built around an old Simpson meter in a 3 RU Modutec case.
The front panel has the same color than Emre's PM 666...
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=28274.msg422722#msg422722

LeftDetail1.jpg


Meter shows GR only, no output. I used the Edcor WSM here, maybe I'll change to Sowters when I have a some extra money.

Edcors.jpg


I had one little problem introduced by too much solder on one octal socket pin, no other problems. The compressor is matched perfectly
for stereo operation.

TopRear1.jpg

LeftSide1.jpg

Top1.jpg



Thanks to Volker for the PCB.

And thanks to the community for support and information.
 
Nice work Hogler,

and good idea for the vu meter,
have you used this edcor transformer mode please?
INPUT edcor XSM 600/10k
edcor pin 1 = 4383 brown
edcor pin 2 = 4383 pink
edcor pin 4 = 4383 green
edcor pin 5 = 4383 blue
edcor pin 8 = 4383 grey
edcor ground= 4383 black

OUTPUT edcor XSM10k/600
edcor pin 1 = 8940 yellow
edcor pin 4 = 8940 green
edcor pin 5 = 8940 grey
edcor pin 8 = 8940 pink
edcor ground= 8940 black
 
I too am looking for a PCB for the D-LA2A.  Reading the above posts, is the only hope of getting a pcb from the black market?  Seems there are plenty of single LA2A's but no D-2LA pcbs :(
 
thanks Silent Arts, may I ask what the projected price will be?  In the meantime, I have your parts list and I'll go ahead and pick up the other parts.  This will be my first audio project DIY and I am looking forward to it. 
 
tcaylor said:
thanks Silent Arts, may I ask what the projected price will be?  In the meantime, I have your parts list and I'll go ahead and pick up the other parts.  This will be my first audio project DIY and I am looking forward to it. 
project price I don't know, but the PCB should stay the same (I think it was EUR 22,- plus shipping).
be aware you need a special PSU transformer - don't think I will have them in stock that time.
and you need those T4Bs. all other parts are easy to get.

if this will be your first project, be aware of the high voltage. this can be killer (I mean: kill you)
 
Stereokillah,
I used 600/15k, 15k/600 WSMs for my build.
My fault: after opening the device I found out that I used the 10k version...
I did not connect the center taps.
Today I did the 75k resistor/25k pot mod which gives me uni-gain at 11 o'clock rather than 9 o'clock gain knob position.

So:
INPUT edcor XSM 600/10k
edcor pin 1 = 4383 brown
NC = 4383 pink
edcor pin 4 = 4383 green
edcor pin 5 = 4383 blue
edcor pin 8 = 4383 grey
NC= 4383 black

OUTPUT edcor XSM10k/600
edcor pin 1 = 8940 yellow
edcor pin 4 = 8940 green
edcor pin 5 = 8940 grey
edcor pin 8 = 8940 pink
NC= 8940 black

(Volker, kriegt jetzt jeder ein Sternchen (Banner) nach Fertigstellung von Dir? ;D)
 
Hi Volker,

The final components I need for this project are the neon lamps, but I don't want to order these only from Conrad. 

So annoying when the thing you forget is only a few cents and postage is €€€  ::)

Will the 68V Zener that you see here be an OK substitute for the neon?

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Discrete-Semiconductors/Zener-Diodes/1.3W-BZX85C-Zener-diodes/66242

Thanks
 
Quick question regarding the TBD resistor on the DLA2A...  I am using the UA T4B's What value should I put in that hole if any?  Many Thanks.
 
hello guys this is my first big projects, i'm a beginer;

dla2a-face.gif


dla2a-inside.gif


dla2a-back.gif



I try to test the voltage of tx  psu ,it work fine.

But when i put all the wire on the pcb the fuse break ,

when just the 250 x2 are plugged it's fine , i add the 5v always fine but when i plugg the 6.3v all my fuse break.

Perhaps it's only bad fuse reference , i don't know if it's slow jsut know it's 0.5A 250v i hope it's just bad fuse reference cause all my pwire under the board seems to be fine, and the resitor too.

This problem is with oand without tube.
 
nice build ;D
give me a pic with the tubes installed once it is up and running.

check your heater wiring for shorts again again - it is not the fuse if it blows without the tubes inside.
you should measure 100 ohm between each tube sockets heater connection to ground.
 
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