DBX160 VU Meter Non functional

[Elvis the Pug]

My first post!

It's about my old school DBX160 VU that has a meter that no longer functions.
It is an early build purchased new back in the mid 1970's and has seen very little use and never abused.
No mods, no parts replaced, all original.
(replacement caps recently purchased but not yet installed.)

But the meter seems to be shot with no movement/activity at all.
I patched a simple current meter across the two leads and that meter showed movement.

The unit still works fine other than the issue with the meter being dead.

So my question is does anyone have a similar meter for sale that is still operating?
Or any suggestions for some sort of replacement solution?

I created a short video to illustrate.

 

[pvision]

Try Studio Electronics in the USA. A replacement will be $300-odd

 

[Elvis the Pug]

Thank you for helping!
Will contact them today.

https://studioelectronics.biz/services/dbx/

 

[beatnik]

I had one of these meters with a similar failure (no movement and needle resting somewhere around the center)

I sent it to a tech for repair and I think the problem might be just a connection issue inside the meter (loose or dirty contacts)

Definitely try getting it repaired before forking out that amount of money for a new meter.

 

[mkiijam]

Aren't those the ones that get bad solder connections on the big cable connectors!?!?!?

 

[Elvis the Pug]

Thanks to all for your comments and suggestions for this meter issue.
I'm tempted to see just how difficult it is to remove the meter and disassemble it myself...

I contacted Studio electronics and they only have this solution for a meter replacement.
They had nothing to add about where to go for a meter repair however.
Not an exact meter match but probably close enough if I want to spend $400 and live with a meter that does not quite match
the original performance wise.

https://www.studioelectronics.biz/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=5160

Or perhaps I could contact the folks at Faria Beede regarding a repair of my meter?
Might be pricey as well...

https://fariabeede.com/forms/?form=new#rep_new

 

[gyraf]

I've had a mechanically broken 165-meter repaired by a local watch-maker once. It's more or less within their range of competence..

/Jakob E.

 

[Elvis the Pug]

I just received a quick response to my query sent to Faria Beede re: DBX160VU meter repair.
-----------------------------------------
Faria Beede does not offer repair on any of the old Beede products.
The Beede gauge company never did have a repair service and none of the old parts and machinery were saved after the buy out.
Faria Beede can only repair Faria Beede gauges.
You can try contacting Lauderdale speedometer. They may be able to give you a lead on who might be able to repair the part.
LINK https://www.lspeedo.com/

 

[Elvis the Pug]

I took the meter out and measuring the meter's coil yields no continuity so my options are getting slimmer.
Photos for anyone interested.

 

[AusTex64]

I used Larson Meter Craft in CA to repair my meter. Not sure if they are still in business.

 

[Brian Roth]

I used Larson Meter Craft in CA to repair my meter. Not sure if they are still in business.

I believe they are closed....but not totally certain.

/EDIT:



Bri

 

[beatnik]

Just checked my records I had it repaired by Revive Audio back in 2015, it looks like they are still in business.

 

[Elvis the Pug]

Just checked my records I had it repaired by Revive Audio back in 2015, it looks like they are still in business.

Good lead!
I will reach out to them today and hope they can provide a fix.
Appreciate you taking the time to check your records, thank you.

 

[Mihobro]

The most easy fix is to check if the meter has any physical impediment, Rubbing on the face, crap in the mechanism. Also look for corrosion on the spring, note: the spring is the conductor to one side of the coil so if your meter shows an open coil check if the spring is intact. The pivot of the needle is the other return of the coil and again, it could be corroded. I was able to get continuity on an open coil by spraying deoxit on the pivot, spray on a swab end or something like that and apply a droplet it to the pivot, this also works on corroded pivots with frozen needles. Wire wound connectors, crimps and screw terminals all can get oxidized to the point where they pass little or no signal and can be similarly treated.
Finally, many of the 160's are used in pairs, so if you do. it may. be worth you while to change both meters if it comes to it.

 

[sodderboy]

Hold on there! Put the meter down.
Measuring current across the meter terminals would present a short circuit to the meter driver circuit, so it is not a valid test. Current is measured in series, not parallel. I know this because I first learned about it at age 12 ish testing current in a wall outlet- goodbye radio shack VOM kit!
A sensitive ac or dc voltage range is the way to test for signal at the meter terminals. The proper path is to verify this first before choosing a direction to test next.
You write that there is no continuity across the meter coil. The connection to the coil passes through the front and back springs. I had a broken spring once on a 162, broken at the solder connection, so I was able to repair. I forget what position the needle was in prior to repair.
Mike

 

[Mihobro]

Sorry for the misunderstanding, I was not saying to test in circuit powered up, or in circuit, It was just a simple resistance check to see if coil was intact just like a speaker coil, which is always detached from the power amp before testing, because the drive amp will always have a lower impedance than the device meter or speaker. I took my cue from the picture in which the meter appeared to be detached. I also should of mentioned that most multimeters have enough power to move a good meter and should only be momentarily applied. It has been a while for me that I worked on many mechanical meters in 160's and other mixing consoles, in the days where consoles had them. most stuck meters could be flushed and exercised to get them to move again, as long as the coil is intact there is a good chance. But this is a delicate operation and sometimes does not work and the meter will drag or just refuse to pivot any longer. and solvents and lubricant can stain the back plate with the scale. There is a little screw that adjusts the spring tension to get the needle to rest at infinity and, the OdB (0 dB gain reduction) is set with the electronics, I am not sure what pot. A known external source can be used to check the scale of the meter which allows you to calibrate threshold and ratio settings, but a meter on the output should be used to check the VU meter's accuracy. Which can be tricky especially on the Gain reduction settings but when properly setup can really be helpful in a session.