Desoldering/Replacing/Repairing Lorlin Switch - Tips?

[ncoak]

I'm faced with the daunting task of replacing a lorlin switch in my GSSL, it's soldered directly to the pcb (ratio switch). I've had plenty of trouble using a soldering wick on components with just 3 pins, let alone a million 16 as in the case of these lorlins...worried about damaging the board. Does anyone have any tips?

Here's the switch:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CK2379virtualkey12200000virtualkey10WA137

Wondering about the possibility of cracking the switch open and replacing the moving parts with those from a new switch, without desoldering...not sure if that's feasible as I've yet to open the lid on the unit (still in use).

To clarify, the switch is busted mechanically - still makes contact but grinds when i turn it, doesn't click from position to position correctly. I'd kill the kid that kicked it but he's my godson.

Any thoughts?

 

[0dbfs]

I tried desoldering and fixing one before. Not cool. I would recommend gently removing the switch and completely replacing. Do your best to clean the board of solder.

When you replace it use just enough solder for good electrical contact. Such that it will be easiest to uninstall when you need to.

Cheers,
jb

 

[dmp]

Since the switch is already bad, crack it open and separate it apart so all 16 pins can be individually removed. Heat each pin with a soldering iron and pull out. It is very hard to remove a mutlipin switch otherwise.

 

[ncoak]

Since the switch is already bad, crack it open and separate it apart so all 16 pins can be individually removed. Heat each pin with a soldering iron and pull out. It is very hard to remove a mutlipin switch otherwise.

ah, of course! excellent, thanks very much.

 

[Biasrocks]

The best $200 I've spent.

http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_808.html

Regards,
Mark

 

[dmp]

The best $200 I've spent.
http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_808.html
Regards,
Mark

I have the same model, and it IS a must have and worth the money - but it will not make it easy to remove a 16 pin switch unless the pcb holes are really large.
When I built PP EQNs, I put in the 12 pin grayhills wrong, and had to get them out without wrecking them. I succeeded but it was REALLY hard. A lot of desoldering, wiggling pins, etc... until they were all free.
I now have a wide flat tip for my hakko soldering iron that lets me heat three pins at once - makes it easy to remove transistors and such...

 

[millzners]

What everyone else already said is great advice (especially cutting the pins and removing seperately).  But one of these is my go to for these types of jobs:

http://cs-sales.net/we250waelinh.html

 

[gemini86]

I have found it's possible by removing as much solder as you can and then dab a touch of flux on the pin, then heat only the pin itself. This can sometimes cause the solder to pool up and separate the two parts. This only seems to work on single sided boards, though.

 

[pucho812]

solder wik is rubbish.  I have found it to destroy solder pads and using a hand help solder pump can pull traces.  For any major and or monor repair job do yourself a favoe and get a desoldering iron. 

I have this one here. It cost me 400.00 dollars but was worth the invest ment. it works as well or better then the 1500.00 dollar weller desolder stations at work. I do not like the hako 808 as it is like a gun vs a pen. Personal preference, I suppose.

 

[abechap024]

I would get a solder sucker, and just go around and around.

Not fun but I've done it before and not as hard as it seems when you start. Use the biggest tip your soldering Iron has if you can

Or if you have a Heat Gun (20$ on ebay) they are great for this kind of stuff....

 

[ncoak]

great, thanks for all the tips. glad i asked before going through a whole lot of trial and error.

 

[pucho812]

great, thanks for all the tips. glad i asked before going through a whole lot of trial and error.

well what you don't wish to do is mess it up so that when you finally get the old switch off and new one it, it does not work because traces and or pads were destroyed.

 

[ustudio]

Hey guys,

I know it's a bit late in the day to come chiming in but....

I just successfully desoldered a lorlin rotary switch - 2pole.

First I went round each solder joint with the solder wick and once each one was fairly clean I just had to quickly go round with the iron and coax it out.

I didn't have to damage the switch and I didn't destroy any solder pads either.

I hope that helps! 

 

[synthiaks]

Desoldering gun! Even the 100$ from China kind is better than wick or hand pump. I have one of the cheepos that you find around the world under different names and it is my favorite, soooo much worth the money and it has not broken yet .

Just make sure you get the newer version without an annoying fan.

Wait a minute... 2012!!!?? well that's late alright