Did I just get the wrong Rubycons?

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Lowfreq

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2005
Messages
575
Location
Christchurch, New Zealand
Hi all,

I got some Rubycons for my green pre a while ago, but that was before I picked up on the idea of low impedance etc.....newbie jumping ahead of myself...oopsy :roll:

I've had a bit of a read through the meta's about caps and stuff, but i only get limited time at work on the ol computer(no internet at home), so if anyone has experience with these caps, then any advice would be fantastic.

The series i got was the YXF series 105deg, which i think are for general use???????mmmmmmm :? But when look at the RS website, the rubycon low impedance series are the ZL series.

Checked out the imedance on the rubycon website too. Most of the time the ZL series impedance was 1/2 of the YXF series.

Now did i just waste some money on some expensive caps for the wrong purpose (i know they'll still work) or am I fussing over nothing?

I've used wima polyesters for the smaller values.

Regards

Steve
 
Steve,

If it is any help I have used YXF in all on my Green pres.

The YXF might not be as low in impedance as the ZL, but they are far better than the other general purpose Rubycons, these are long life and have a temp of 105, the YXF.

If you look at say the YK range the YXK last up to 5 times longer at 4000-10000 hours and the YK temp is 85 degrees.

If you have looked closley at Peter's Photobucket pics for the Greens you will see those Ruby's max temp is 85, so those are prob YK anyways..

I think the YXF sound great and use them whever I can in my audio path.

Good choice on the WIMA's as well, I have those in my Greens, MKS2 range.

Hope that helps.

Cheers

Matt
 
Cool, thanks Matt

Glad to hear that they work well.
I can't complain really as I was able to make up the two green pre's out of the left over components from other projects, so only the caps and the chassi are the only things costing me money (also I gotta get some green paint for the front panel :wink: )

I was even able to do my own press n peel thing with left over label paper from work. worked better than the real PnP stuff. :green:

Anyway, I'm a happy man about my caps, and i'm gonna finish of the wiring tonight after work. Lookin foward to it.

Regards

Steve
 
Ah ha, my budget PnP version.
Here goes.......

I kinda got the idea off one of SSL techs posts about labeling using this way.

Well I work in a retail music store(guitars,PA etc) and we use your standard peel off labels for pricing everything, and we always have a few empty sheets lying around. I had some PnP blue paper that I bought, but it would always melt in the work laser printer. finally got it to work in a photocopier, but oh the drama!!!! :mad:

Anyway, i made a couple of api boards with the blue and wasn't too impressed after etching (mind you i'm pretty bad at etching). And because i had lots of spare bits to make a green pre i thought i'd try using the label paper(it has a glossy side where the labels were) . The BIGGY was that the label paper would go through the laser printer fine, and i had a far better toner quality to start with.

Then I just did the iron on thing like i did with the blue PnP stuff(although i iron for a few extra minutes than recomended). I filled up a bucket with cold soapy water, and chucked in the PCB's and then went to the gym.

By the time I came back the paper was nice and soggy, and came off pretty easy, leaving most of the toner. Any toner that came off I fixed with my etch resistant pen. :thumb:

I've been etching with that clear stuff you have to keep warm, and i've got nothing to heat it up with (just add boiling water) so i might try ferric chloride next time even tho its messier. So maybe my blues might have turned out better if i ecthed properly.

Also if i had found a printer that wouldn't eat up the blue sheets then i might have been able to get more toner onto the sheet. But here in NZ the PnP costs me $40 for 5 sheets, but at work the label paper costs me nothing so I know which one i'll choose :green: :green:

regards

Steve
 
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