Is that when you turn anything, or a lot of things on/off - low powerish stuff . Or is it related to higher power stuff that has motors / pumps etc eg refrigerators, air con', fans ?I'm getting pops into the guitar amp and synths when I turn something on or off
Indeed, the kitchen refrigerator is definitely the biggest problem in the house. I have tried every power outlet in the house for my current Furman PL-PLUS CE that is feeding most pieces of gear, but when the refrigerator goes off the pop it gives to my old tube amp does not sound healthy at all... Also messes up recordings as it can be heard in the synths and outboard.Is that whe
Is that when you turn anything, or a lot of things on/off - low powerish stuff . Or is it related to higher power stuff that has motors / pumps etc eg refrigerators, air con', fans ?
Indeed, the kitchen refrigerator is definitely the biggest problem in the house. I have tried every power outlet in the house for my current Furman PL-PLUS CE that is feeding most pieces of gear, but when the refrigerator goes off the pop it gives to my old tube amp does not sound healthy at all... Also messes up recordings as it can be heard in the synths and outboard.
I guess so, I am renting the place temporarily and have not checked the electrical circuit. My guess is that there only is one electrical circuit in the appartmentIs the refrigerator on the same ring or radial circuit as the audio kit ?
That would mean installing the component on the refrigerator if I understand correctly?Actually what is needed is a Arc Suppressor/Snubber Network at the offending appliance.
https://www.mouser.com/new/cornell-dubilier/CDE-Quencharc-snubber-networks/But they can be a real challenge to install.
That would be resistor side on the hot wire and capacitor side on the neutral correct?Yes. Normally it has to be fitted as close to the source of noise as possible. However, you may be able to fit it inside the plug and give it a try.
This type of suppressor needs to be installed across the switch, which is actually driven by the thermostat in the fridge. It may require dismantling a significant part of the fridge. Even then, I'm not convinced it would solve the problem. I believe a direct line from the access panel would be more efficient.Actually what is needed is a Arc Suppressor/Snubber Network at the offending appliance.
https://www.mouser.com/new/cornell-dubilier/CDE-Quencharc-snubber-networks/But they can be a real challenge to install.
See post #14.That would be resistor side on the hot wire and capacitor side on the neutral correct?
No, you will need to fit it to the fridge plug. Ideally across the switch/relay contacts but as abbey mentioned this would require quite a bit of work. So, your next call is at the plug.That would be resistor side on the hot wire and capacitor side on the neutral correct?
I might try to fit that directly to the Furman power strip.
Also to respond to disco volante's question, to calculate the exact value, you need some other information that will be difficult to obtain. Even then you'll end up using one of the handful of values available off-the-shelf. So, your best option is trial and error.Which values would be fit for my french electrical installation? 0.25uF 250V 22 Ohms? 0.25uF 250V 100 Ohms?
Yes, it is mentioned in multiple occasions that the ideal place is across the relay contacts. But as a second bestThe supressor doesnt get wired 'across' the mains in the first place , its permanently in place across the relay contacts that control the compressor , I fail to see how it can be wired into a plug , theres a fundamental missunderstanding going on here