DIY stepped pots w/rotary switches & resistors

[djmiggymigz]

Cool thank you! I looked thru the datasheet as well and think these may be the ones. I don't understand how the ones I linked are around $13/switch and then the ones you linked are up to around $20/switch! Super unfortunate seeing as I need 12 switches.

I'm also no longer sure whether I need shorting or non-shorting lol. As I said, Harpo made an awesome excel sheet way back to calculate what the resistance values of each step should be. On that sheet, harpo specifically says that the switches should be non-shorting (bbm) switches. Seeing as there was so much thought and work put into this I'm inclined to follow that guidance.

 

[chrispbass]

Cool thank you! I looked thru the datasheet as well and think these may be the ones. I don't understand how the ones I linked are around $13/switch and then the ones you linked are up to around $20/switch! Super unfortunate seeing as I need 12 switches.

I'm also no longer sure whether I need shorting or non-shorting lol. As I said, Harpo made an awesome excel sheet way back to calculate what the resistance values of each step should be. On that sheet, harpo specifically says that the switches should be non-shorting (bbm) switches. Seeing as there was so much thought and work put into this I'm inclined to follow that guidance.

You want shorting…make before brake …MBB. That way, there is no disconnection when changing values

 

[djmiggymigz]

hmm yeah that does make sense to me as well. Only thing about this design is harpo's calculations take into consideration a resistor wired in parellel outside of the switch. Could this be the reason he recommended BBM? Here's a pic of the excel sheet for reference.

 

[ruffrecords]

From a circuit design point of view, there are two main factors which affect whether you use shorting or non-shorting contacts.

1. Gain changes as you switch. Does the gain go up or down? Generally speaking gain going down is preferable. In most circuits this indicates using non-shorting contacts.
2. Can you maintain a dc path at all times to avoid clicks? This can be achieved either by shorting contacts or a parallel resistor.

Cheers

Ian

 

[myleftear]

Cool thank you! I looked thru the datasheet as well and think these may be the ones. I don't understand how the ones I linked are around $13/switch and then the ones you linked are up to around $20/switch! Super unfortunate seeing as I need 12 switches.

I'm also no longer sure whether I need shorting or non-shorting lol. As I said, Harpo made an awesome excel sheet way back to calculate what the resistance values of each step should be. On that sheet, harpo specifically says that the switches should be non-shorting (bbm) switches. Seeing as there was so much thought and work put into this I'm inclined to follow that guidance.

Not sure if you would get them for around $13.-, I guess it’s geographic and the supplier. And yes, I would follow the masters advice too, absolutely, as they’re supposed to know what they’re doing, while I…

 

[craigmorris74]

I’m thinking of replacing the pots with rotary switches on my Pultec style EQ. Would a 12 position switch be enough?

 

[myleftear]

12 steps might be a little coarse, but if the bandwidth you work on in narrow (the adjustments are fine/small) it may work. I unfortunately don’t know pultecs but from the internet, the case look a bit narrow… you’re sure the pultec has the space for stepped attenuators? (They are rather bulky compared to a pot…)

 

[craigmorris74]

12 steps might be a little coarse, but if the bandwidth you work on in narrow (the adjustments are fine/small) it may work. I unfortunately don’t know pultecs but from the internet, the case look a bit narrow… you’re sure the pultec has the space for stepped attenuators? (They are rather bulky compared to a pot…)

I was afraid of that. The commercial versions have 21 steps. I’ll take measurements before ordering anything.

 

[myleftear]

If space, budget, and specs allow for it, you could use some prefab attenuators, made with smd-resistors.

Something like these (I’m not affiliated)

 

[djmiggymigz]

From a circuit design point of view, there are two main factors which affect whether you use shorting or non-shorting contacts.

1. Gain changes as you switch. Does the gain go up or down? Generally speaking gain going down is preferable. In most circuits this indicates using non-shorting contacts.
2. Can you maintain a dc path at all times to avoid clicks? This can be achieved either by shorting contacts or a parallel resistor.

Cheers

Ian

Thanks for the reply Ian, really appreciate you breaking by that down. That makes sense. I’ll be following harpo’s guidance and go with non-shorting.

Now, a potential total noob problem/question. So I bought the Lorain CK1458 1 Pol x 12 Pos switches. Just got them in today and immediately following my excitement: confusion. Hahah

They’re supposed to be 12 position, they have 12 solder terminals and 1 pole in the back as they should. However, there’s only 11 clicks when rotating from one side to the other?? Am I somehow confused about the switches work?

Attaching a screenshot of the specs from Mouser

 

[ruffrecords]

Of course there are only eleven clicks. You are initially at position one. You rotate clockwise one click and get to position 2, then a second click gets you to position 3 and so on until the 11th click gets you to position 12.

Cheers

Ian