DIY TT/Bantam Cables

[Khron]

Tin wires but not the connection point. I'll try that.

Also worth keeping in mind the connector's a far greater thermal mass (that needs heating up so the flux cleans its surface and the solder sticks).

Although I haven't tried tinning the connection point I noticed that the solder doesn't really flow onto the connection point but stays more as a bubble on top.

How are you applying the solder to the connector, then?

"Solder on the iron tip, then apply tip to connector" = rookie mistake (flux burns off on the tip, helping nothing)

Yes, you wanna tin the tip so whatever molten solder is there, offers an increased AND flexible thermal contact area, BUT after touching the tinned tip to the connector and warming it up, you also wanna feed fresh (flux-cored) solder, for the above-mentioned reasons.

 

[Michael Tibes]

How are y'all getting your TT jacks and cable? I assume nobody here is paying 10 bucks US for a cable that you need 48 or more of in some instances. What's the solution here?

I use mainly ready made Mogami patchcables, 10$ get you nowhere in that picture. I have not had a single problem in over two decades and I am still happy that I spent this money.

For utility-tasks (talkbacks…) I once bought a bunch of cheap cables on eBay. They also work well until they don’t, a few are broken already. No biggie for the price, but they were anyway not in my vocal recording chain or any other essential spot.

In my early years of engineering in the 90s I’ve been in several studios which couldn’t provide reliable patchcables. The ones there had brass contacts, a terrible concept unless you enjoy polishing. Those must have been from the 80s. That experience made me want to spend the money on Mogami.

My suggestion: find used Mogamis or if that’s not possible something alike with molded-on connectors and ‚chromish‘ (not brass) contacts and give them a test drive. Cut one open, check if you like what you see.

 

[OwenAudio]

Scuff the soldering surface with a small file, works everytime.

Makes sense. I'll do that. Thanks!!

 

[OwenAudio]

Also worth keeping in mind the connector's a far greater thermal mass (that needs heating up so the flux cleans its surface and the solder sticks).



How are you applying the solder to the connector, then?

"Solder on the iron tip, then apply tip to connector" = rookie mistake (flux burns off on the tip, helping nothing)

Yes, you wanna tin the tip so whatever molten solder is there, offers an increased AND flexible thermal contact area, BUT after touching the tinned tip to the connector and warming it up, you also wanna feed fresh (flux-cored) solder, for the above-mentioned reasons.

I do fresh feed solder as I'm applying to the connector.

 

[OwenAudio]

Makes sense. I'll do that. Thanks!!

Scuffing the surface works great! Problem solved. Thank you!