DIY TT/Bantam Cables

[Khron]

Tin wires but not the connection point. I'll try that.

Also worth keeping in mind the connector's a far greater thermal mass (that needs heating up so the flux cleans its surface and the solder sticks).

Although I haven't tried tinning the connection point I noticed that the solder doesn't really flow onto the connection point but stays more as a bubble on top.

How are you applying the solder to the connector, then?

"Solder on the iron tip, then apply tip to connector" = rookie mistake (flux burns off on the tip, helping nothing)

Yes, you wanna tin the tip so whatever molten solder is there, offers an increased AND flexible thermal contact area, BUT after touching the tinned tip to the connector and warming it up, you also wanna feed fresh (flux-cored) solder, for the above-mentioned reasons.

 

[Michael Tibes]

How are y'all getting your TT jacks and cable? I assume nobody here is paying 10 bucks US for a cable that you need 48 or more of in some instances. What's the solution here?

I use mainly ready made Mogami patchcables, 10$ get you nowhere in that picture. I have not had a single problem in over two decades and I am still happy that I spent this money.

For utility-tasks (talkbacks…) I once bought a bunch of cheap cables on eBay. They also work well until they don’t, a few are broken already. No biggie for the price, but they were anyway not in my vocal recording chain or any other essential spot.

In my early years of engineering in the 90s I’ve been in several studios which couldn’t provide reliable patchcables. The ones there had brass contacts, a terrible concept unless you enjoy polishing. Those must have been from the 80s. That experience made me want to spend the money on Mogami.

My suggestion: find used Mogamis or if that’s not possible something alike with molded-on connectors and ‚chromish‘ (not brass) contacts and give them a test drive. Cut one open, check if you like what you see.

 

[OwenAudio]

Scuff the soldering surface with a small file, works everytime.

Makes sense. I'll do that. Thanks!!

 

[OwenAudio]

Also worth keeping in mind the connector's a far greater thermal mass (that needs heating up so the flux cleans its surface and the solder sticks).



How are you applying the solder to the connector, then?

"Solder on the iron tip, then apply tip to connector" = rookie mistake (flux burns off on the tip, helping nothing)

Yes, you wanna tin the tip so whatever molten solder is there, offers an increased AND flexible thermal contact area, BUT after touching the tinned tip to the connector and warming it up, you also wanna feed fresh (flux-cored) solder, for the above-mentioned reasons.

I do fresh feed solder as I'm applying to the connector.

 

[OwenAudio]

Makes sense. I'll do that. Thanks!!

Scuffing the surface works great! Problem solved. Thank you!

 

[pucho812]

Thanks. I do nearly the same thing. Kester 63/37. 750f (maybe too hot?). Tin wires but not the connection point. I'll try that.
Although I haven't tried tinning the connection point I noticed that the solder doesn't really flow onto the connection point but stays more as a bubble on top.

It’s all about heat. The surface needs to heat slightly longer

 

[pucho812]

Here are some pictures of some recent cable builds. TT - xlr.
Cable is canare L4e5C which is miniature quad version L4E6S. Basically smaller diameter.
TT end is made by redco.

Tools: solder Iron, rg59 crimper, wire strippers, single edge blade, kester solder, debraiding tool of choice, I use a dental pick.

0. Unscrew the boot and put it on the cable
1. Strip Outer jacket off the cable to length. I usually use the TT as a measurement for how much to remove.
2.debraid the shield
3. Trim the shield and fold it over the jacket
4. Tin TT connector. I use my iron 700 F and leaded solder for the task. It stays on longer then expected.
5. Shove cable through the TT so that the jacket meets right at the end of where you crimp down for ground.
6. Use rg59 tool to crimp the back of the connector making a solid ground connection.
7.trim and strip wires for pin2/tip
8. Tin pin 2 wires then solder to tinned tip pin of the TT
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 for pin 3 wires and ring pin on TT
10. Screw boot on.

11. Repeat for other end or add connector of choice for other end. If not using a tt on the other side, plan accordingly for shield.