Dremel
- Thread starter Ricardus
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Ricardus
WILL SOLDER FOR FOOD
PRR said:
I think you're on the wrong forum. GardeningDIY is down the hall!!
Brian Roth
Well-known member
My Dremel doesn't get that much use, but years ago I did find one odd for it.
I have maintained many MCI desks for years, and they used button-head screws with hex (Allen) heads to secure the modules into the frame. Over time, ham-fisted techs with crappy Allen wrenches (NOT me! lol) screwed up those screws.
Hate to admit it, but I have used a cutoff wheel chucked into the Dremel to make a slot on the destroyed screw heads so I can then use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the screws.
Bri
I have maintained many MCI desks for years, and they used button-head screws with hex (Allen) heads to secure the modules into the frame. Over time, ham-fisted techs with crappy Allen wrenches (NOT me! lol) screwed up those screws.
Hate to admit it, but I have used a cutoff wheel chucked into the Dremel to make a slot on the destroyed screw heads so I can then use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the screws.
Bri
Brian Roth said:
I always try an automatic centre punch before resorting to cutting a slot. Using it at an angle in the direction of rotaton sometimes you can get it to shock the screw loose.
iampoor1
Well-known member
Rob Flinn said:
Thats a great tip. Never thought of that!
I usually go for the "vice grip around the head trick", but not on customer equipment..... ;D
iampoor1
Well-known member
Another good use for dremel cut off wheels is cutting IEC connector cutouts in aluminum chassis (Done a few silvertone 1484 mods). I havent had much luck doing that in steel chassis with a dremel.
I wonder if i could cut my toenails?PRR said:
With my arthritis I can't bend my right knee enough to easily reach the nails for trimming.
Whats the worst that could happen?
JR
Brian Roth
Well-known member
iampoor1 said:
In the few situations where I resorted to that with the screws that attach the MCI channel modules into the frame of the desk, those are small 6-32 button heads and no way to grab them with a vice grip. I dunno it whacking them with an automatic center punch is viable, either because of the small/low profile of the button heads.
It was a "last resort"measure to be able to remove the screw so the module could be repaired.
https://www.mcmaster.com/button-head-cap-screws
Bri
I have the same knee problem, and I have never been tempted to self-Dremel.JohnRoberts said:
Mostly we let the Vet trim the dogs. Maybe he will do you too? Of course there are people to do people toenails, but they charge to buff paint and polish too.
pucho812
Well-known member
iampoor1 said:
I can never get 100%$ straight lines with that, it's probably me, a work around is neutral power con if there is space.
pucho812 said:
For one off's as long as the connector fits and it looks relatively straight from the outside I don't mind it a little rough looking on the inside. For production units, using a rotary tool is too time consuming. For repairs, mods, and prototyping it's close enough for me and the best option I've come up with.
I scribe lines where I want to cut but I wouldn't say it's as accurate or as neat as milling or punching a cut out.
Brian Roth said:
It does work on the MCI screws as that is what I've used it for, but not all the time. It's a first rather than last resort. Another way you can use the centre punch is sometimes you can use it to reshape the hex hole so the Allen key grips it enough to loosen the screw. If it doesn't work I use a hacksaw blade to cut a slot since I don't own a dremmel.
pucho812
Well-known member
Rob Flinn said:
have you tried using a screw extractor kit for any of that?
pucho812 said:
No mainly because I haven't owned a screw extractor kit until very recently, & haven't had problems with MCI screws since I have owned one. I guess the desks I look after I have sorted all the stuck screws now.
iampoor1
Well-known member
pucho812 said:
The trick (that I learned after doing this poorly about 20 times) is it work REALLY slow and slowly file/remove maybe an 1/8 of an inch at a time until you have a perfect fit. I wouldnt have the patience to do it on a new case, I only do it on amps where the owner wants a retrofit. I really like the powrcon idea! Probablly much easier to use a step bit.
Gold said:
Wow, hats off to you. I dont have that much patience...and my dremel is a knock off and stalls under load in steel. That might be part of the problem!
iampoor1 said:
It doesn’t take that long. I scribe the lines. The cutoff wheel goes right through the Par Metal cases. I cut through on the long sides. I also do a cut in the middle of the connector cutoout. I score the sides because the cutoff wheel is too big. And I cut the middle so the pieces to come out are in two pieces. Then I bend them with a pliers so they break on the sides at the score line. Then I clean up the sides with a file.
Brian Roth
Well-known member
Rob Flinn said:
It's been awhile since I fought with the MCI module screws. Problems with them apparently were due to the painted panels on 500 and 600 desks. I'm guessing the screw heads became imbedded into the paint.
Bri
Ricardus
WILL SOLDER FOR FOOD
I gotta say, for the people who say they have no use for a Dremel, I've used this thing a million times already just to grind paint and/or powder coat off of chassis parts just to get a good ground connection with a screw.
One of my dogs doesnt like his toe nails cut at all , Ive tried a few times and he let me know politely he didnt want it , I was thinking of making a special sanding pad just to gently rub them down , if I went near him with a dremel he'd be terrified .
I usually find even if you cut rough ,finishing with a file cleans it all up after as long as you've left enough to work with around the edges.
I have a set of screw extractors ,lidl special , never actually needed them yet .
I got plenty of practice removing stubborn bolts in the motor winders , mostly its heat it good and hot with a gas torch,tap of a hammer and it comes out easy , on ocassions where the screw head is damaged or completely gone drilling out the thread is about the only option , its delicate but it is doable ,with patience , a steel screw in alloy is a chalenge to drill with hand tools , slow and carefull is the way to go.
I usually find even if you cut rough ,finishing with a file cleans it all up after as long as you've left enough to work with around the edges.
I have a set of screw extractors ,lidl special , never actually needed them yet .
I got plenty of practice removing stubborn bolts in the motor winders , mostly its heat it good and hot with a gas torch,tap of a hammer and it comes out easy , on ocassions where the screw head is damaged or completely gone drilling out the thread is about the only option , its delicate but it is doable ,with patience , a steel screw in alloy is a chalenge to drill with hand tools , slow and carefull is the way to go.
