Drip EQP-1A V3 help?

jimfowler · Dec 15, 2015

Anybody successfully built the 3rd gen Drip Pultec? There's no updated BOM or build guide and I'm kinda stuck and haven't been able to get any help from Drip as of yet. Referencing the attached photo, my questions are as follows:

1. What is the trim pot value?
2. Do I just get the pick the regulator that I want? Two options are listed.
3. I skip the diodes to the left of the 6x4 tube, right? It's an either/or for rectification?
4. What are "MOV", "X2", "Y2", and "1M" on the far right?

Basically I need just a little hand-holding as this is the third project I've done and the prior two have very clear and detailed guides. If anybody can help me out I'd be really really appreciative.

- Jim

lukas · Dec 15, 2015

1. 2k pot, if u get this option don't solderin "1k fixed".
4. AC Condensators Voltage safety class symbols.

sonicrevolution · May 28, 2016

Hi Lukas, I was seeing how your v3 pultec build went. I am basically just waiting around on a back ordered resistor from mouser, and everything else is just layin around here as I search and ponder its assembly. This is my first build, I am excited and terrified at the same time. I was curious if you where willing to share some do's and dont's that you possibly ran into? Thank you!

regards

Matt

dogfaceaudio · Jun 23, 2016

I talked to Marie from Drip Electronics when I ordered my EQP1A v3 PCB, and she said that Greg will be updating all the documentation and uploading them either this week or next.

hugo · Jun 29, 2016

Hi all,
Firstly i'm a noobie, i made 7/8 diy projects and finally decided to try those huge drip's pcbs.. I see lot of point marked with voltage, as testing points.. But where am i supposed to put the black wire of my MM ?..is it AC/DC ?..sorry for my ignorance, i try to learn...hairball or pcbgrinders are great documented but this project is not at all...
I used silent arts d-la2a toroidal, just would like to be sure it is ok..

AusTex64 · Jun 30, 2016

hugo said:
Hi all,
Firstly i'm a noobie, i made 7/8 diy projects and finally decided to try those huge drip's pcbs.. I see lot of point marked with voltage, as testing points.. But where am i supposed to put the black wire of my MM ?..is it AC/DC ?..sorry for my ignorance, i try to learn...hairball or pcbgrinders are great documented but this project is not at all...
I used silent arts d-la2a toroidal, just would like to be sure it is ok..

The first thing to do is take a moment and look at the signal flow of the V3 power supply sections. There is high voltage (I think 500V) for the plates, cathodes etc. and low voltage (6V) for the tube heaters.

If measuring voltages past the rectifier, they will be DC. So black probe to ground, red to test point. If you choose to use the DC heaters option on the V3 PCB, they will be 6V DC at the tube sockets. If not, it will be 6V AC.

FWIW you won't blow anything up if you have the meter selected wrong, you just won't get an accurate reading. If you measure a voltage with AC selected and the meter reads little or nothing, try setting the meter to DC. On AC, it doesn't matter whether you get the polarity of the probes right either, only with DC.

ALWAYS be careful making these kinds of measurements. Be patient. Don't press real hard to make good contact, or sometimes the tip will slip off and worst case the tip will contact high voltage and something else at the same time, and you'll get a bang. I like to use an alligator clip jumper lead to attach the black probe to a ground point and only use one hand to handle the red probe, keeping the other hand away from the chassis. Don't make yourself a path to ground by touching the chassis with one hand and accidently touching a live component with your other hand. Sometimes guys will actually keep one hand behind them and probe with the other, which I do when working on guitar amps.

Hope that helps.