tonycamp
Well-known member
can anyone tell me what was used in the original? After a search, I can't seem to find any capacitance value or voltage rating, only that it's a wet tantalum...
thanx for any info
T
thanx for any info
T
Delta Sigma said:Were there really 70V caps in original 251s?
I have a homemade point to point built Elam M 251... I borrowed a original Haufe T14/1 tran & the working capacitor, Im using Tim Camble capsule, mic sounds very nice but is not my favorite mic, I dont hear the 3D effect people talk of.....
Also this...Matt Nolan said:75V is the steady-state voltage seen across the bypass capacitor. When you first turn the thing on, especially with a solid state PSU, the B+ will come up before the heater warms up - i.e. before the tube starts to conduct and so the plate voltage will be at full B+. Possibly more as, without the tube conducting yet, there is less current draw and so the B+ will be higher than the steady-state value. This may not be for long enough to blow an under-rated capacitor straight away, but it may well shorten its life.
There are mic designs where the output transformer is wired in opposite phase and between the plate and B+, rather than between the plate and ground. I don't know for sure the prime intent of this, but it could be to avoid this start-up problem and allow a physically smaller capacitor. You see it in the C28, for example.
bockaudio said:I've never seen the wet tant in a 251 short out (I have seen loss of capacitance), though I've seen plenty of tants short out in ATR124 decks taking down the whole machine (smoke optional).Melodeath00 said:Good point, David Bock. I have been unable to find any wet tantalums over 125V in the 3.3uF range, and they are very expensive. Do you think it's really worth it sound-wise, and is it dangerous to use a cap of 125V? And wouldn't it be dangerous for the transformer if the wet tantalum goes caput? I read that they short when they fail.
I have also seen original T14/1 xfmrs go open. That wire is mighty fine.
IF your new build mic does not copy the exact footprint of the 251, you should have more room for other cap options. Then you can listen and decide for yourself. But in a vintage 251, space is at a premium so the original cap is a must, unless you are willing to crack the plexiglass body, as some repairs guys are willing to do. FYI there is no electrolytic that will fit in that space that sounds good so don't bother.
Yes you can use a 125v cap, though it's safer with higher tolerances. The occasion of reaching 125v across the cap occurs at power up, when the B+ is there but the tube hasn't fully heated. Reaching full B+ once the tube is heated will likely not happen during normal use, unless you stick it in a kick drum.
I have found NOS went tants (of the value you need for this mic), even recently, so I know they are out there
TLRT said:What type of cap was used in the original C12?(I know the value was 0,5uf) Btw the green soviet K42Y's are not bad at all however they are not true PIO caps. Anyway I like them in my builds.
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