EZ1084EQ NEW BATCH COMING - SEE MY MARCH 27 COMMENT ON PAGE 38

[Bluzzi]

new boards?

These are the mike preamp add-on for the 1084EQ section.

Cheers

Jim

 

[kogstudio]

Hey Jim,

Nice one, 
When do you think the "Mic Pre add on" corrected boards will be ready to go?  <<edit to qualify correctly

 

[Bluzzi]

Hey Jim,

Nice one, 
When do you think the corrected boards will be ready to go?

First let's clarify that "corrected boards" are for the mike preamp boards which are only in prototype stage. Just in case some may take comments out of context.

After new years I'll be asking to see how many people want them. Obviously these mike pres are only functional with the EZ1084EQ boards.

These boards are for select people that have asked for them and probably an equal ratio for the future. It's a minority of about 5% to 10%  of EZ1084EQ builders so far. So I will not be ordering a huge amount of these.

Cheers

Jim

 

[Dr_J]

Hi,

i'm on the home stretch to finish my stereo build. One channel is already in test-mode. No problems so far.
I'm using a SMPS power supply. I guess in this case I'll have to connect 0V to case Ground, do I?
Otherwise i have a nice 50Hz hum plus a lot of high frequency noise.
With the 0V to ground connection the unit is dead quit.

Or do I miss something?

ROCK-ON!

 

[Bluzzi]

Verify that your 2N3055 screws are not making contact with chassis. Normally you connect 0v to the PCB connector labeled powered in 0v. This is really ground for the EQ as well. On some installations connecting 0v to ground will cause a ground loop in some it does not make a difference and then on some you must connect to ground. I know in my studio I do not connect it and it is dead quiet. Although I did connect input ground to output ground.

So on yours it is obviously required.

Cheers

Jim

 

[Dr_J]

Hi Jim,

thanks for your quick reply.
I'll check the screws, but i'm 99% sure that there's no case connection.

I tested the unit with an old Siemens PSU (N224), in this configuration the 0V to ground was not necessary.
Btw. comparing both PSU didn't show any big difference on the overall noise level.

So, it seems to be worth to put a ground 0V switch in.

ROCK-ON!

 

[Greenote]

Great Project, easy build! Sounds fantastic. Thanks Jim and yes I'm interested in the 1290 add on.

 

[Bonsaimaster]

Ok 1 channel up and running no problems. Still saving money to finish two other channels. Yes three channels of 1084. Included a pic of the semi finished product. Only used on vocals so far but sounds fantastic!

 

[Bluzzi]

What a fantastic job you did on these! First one I see where you have 3 in 1 rack!

Love the front panel and knobs. No fuss and to the point.

Let me know what power supply you decided on. I know the Fivefish will power 2 units easily and I believe it will also do at least 3 but never tried more than 2 at a time. So let me know how hot it gets (if at all) when powering up 3 units.

Again congratulations on your DIY on these. Using them with love is the best compliment to Mr. Rupert Neve and a little to me!

Cheers

Jim

 

[Bonsaimaster]

Used the Five fish audio power supply. May be awhile before I have all three powered up. Boards and parts are done for all three. Those damn transformers and switches. Anyone have coupons for AML audio?

Thanks for the complement. Truly a great product and great design. Hats off Bluzzi!

 

[Bluzzi]

Thanks again. Yeah those XFRs and inductors are the expensive part. Grayhills too. It's only when you compare the cost of an original or another finished clone that you see how cheap this project is.

Cheers

Jim

 

[fragletrollet]

On my way!

Unfortunately Digi-Key sent me no R8/56.2ohm 1/4w res) and 5 too few 4.7mohm 1/4w resistors, even tough they are fully written up in the invoice. 

Oh well, I`ll sort it out

A few comments:

PCB is awesome, feels really sturdy and all the solder-pads are comfortably apart.

Instructions are awesome. Pretty much paint by numbers.

Wonder where I`ll be tomorrow night  8)

 

[Whoops]

Hello Jim,
any news on the 1290LE mic preamp add-on for the 1084EQ ?
Thanks

 

[Bluzzi]

On my way!

Unfortunately Digi-Key sent me no R8/56.2ohm 1/4w res) and 5 too few 4.7mohm 1/4w resistors, even tough they are fully written up in the invoice. 

Oh well, I`ll sort it out

A few comments:

PCB is awesome, feels really sturdy and all the solder-pads are comfortably apart.

Instructions are awesome. Pretty much paint by numbers.

Wonder where I`ll be tomorrow night  8)

I did a paint by numbers painting once. It came out horrible! I think Brown was every colour! :-[

Don't worry, we'll take care of you. Just keep on soldering and don't forget to take breaks.

Yeah, I made the traces thicker and farther apart on purpose. Some like th e Grayhills you can't avoid but just a little dab of solder with a good soldering iron and no problem.

I didn't like the Black mask as much as the green on the v1 board. I found it too reflective so next batch will probably be Red or Yellow. Not sure which one is better for anti-glare.

Cheers

Jim

 

[fragletrollet]

I think the black board looks super-sexy. No doubt red would too... or purple! how cool would that be  8)

 

[audiophreak]

Hello  ;D
        I've run in to a problem, using this on a project for the first time and have noticed a "Humm" in the Mid frequency select, the sound or pitch of the "Humm" changes with and mimics the frequency selected and goes away when frequency select switch is set to "Off" position.
  ... any sugestions ??

Thanks in advance 

 

[shabtek]

Are you picking up a radiated field from a power transformer?

 

[audiophreak]

My PT and PSU are in the box so I guess thats a posibility -  but the low and hi frequency select switches are fine - and as I said , when the mid frequency select is set to the Off position the noise goes away - the unit is dead quiet.

 

[shabtek]

On valve gear hum will often go away immediately after gear is switched off though signal is still passing/amplification stages are still conducting.
This can help one narrow down the source of hum.
Might be useful here too.

 

[fragletrollet]

Ok, so while waiting for the rest of the parts to arrive, I`ve started on the XLR audio hookup. I am however a little confused.

I`m using shielded mic-cable for the XLR I/O. I have just wrapped the shielding back onto the cable, so only Pin 2 and 3 of the XLR is connected to the cable. This I have done for both input and output cables. Is it enough to connect Pin 1 from the input xlr to the output xlr? Do I need to solder Pin 3 to Pin 1 aswell on both connectors?



They say a picture is more than a thousand words. Red`s are outputs, blue inputs.
Shield in cable is not connected to the XLR`s on either input or output side. Is it enough to now link the shield pins (aka pin 1) on the input and output XLR`s together? No worries with the shield in the cable not being connected to anything?

I`ve seen people do this a little different on pictures I`ve seen of finished units.