EZ1290

[desol]

Is anyone selling the EZ1290 boards anymore? Thanks

 

[KrIVIUM2323]

Yep.
At least two i know from:

https://analogclassics.com/product/...cX_BYcjGnhaT7sCQAXmIPjVMxeGgzWM0NEorvfFYKkeRI
https://proaudiogc.com/pcb-preamp-gc-73-fet-di-neve-clone-1073
While not a direct copy of EZ1290's boards, second one is based on EZ1290 schemo and offer interesting variation regarding switch. Might be more interesting for EU based members though.

 

[desol]

Thanks!

 

[chrispbass]

Is anyone selling the EZ1290 boards anymore? Thanks

Scroll down the first post

https://groupdiy.com/threads/8-channel-3u-neve-1073-completed.22828/

 

[inf0]

I've been doing a bit of research , cross referencing between different builds and I see that some use Tantalum Caps and Polystyrene (EZ1290) and the proaudiogc doesn't. I've seen the same happening between the EZ1073 500 and the DIYRE version .

I'm still a beginner in many ways so I'm trying to make sense of what's the most "authentic" to the original design. Are those designer choices or a variation on the circuit?

 

[KrIVIUM2323]

The most authentic is what was used on original Neve's modules, you can easily find the info in the 1073 documents.
Does it make an audible difference? Did the 'cloners' decided to use something else for reliatibilty or availlibility issue? Are bc184c mandatory or can be exchanged for mpsa18 ( reversing orientation)? Are some transformer recreation better than others?

In fact you'll have to try by yourself and compare to an original ( can be difficult to source) or a known good clone.

My own take on it is tantalum can make a difference but it won't break or make outcome, it's subtle imho, polystirene can be substituded by good film cap ( polyprop) mpsa18/bc184c doesn't matter, transformers make a difference. My view, your milage may vary.

 

[Potato Cakes]

I've been doing a bit of research , cross referencing between different builds and I see that some use Tantalum Caps and Polystyrene (EZ1290) and the proaudiogc doesn't. I've seen the same happening between the EZ1073 500 and the DIYRE version .

I'm still a beginner in many ways so I'm trying to make sense of what's the most "authentic" to the original design. Are those designer choices or a variation on the circuit?

When looking for "authentic," which model and serial number are you making reference? Component value tolerances were much higher than now, so two brand new units could sound very different. I have found that trying to build a vintage circuit exactly like an "original" (see above) to be a fool's errand. If you build a 1073/1290 style circuit with quality components and bias it for symmetrical clipping, you will have a great sounding circuit.

I have completed numerous build using BA283 type amp blocks and my recommendations are the following:

- Use WIMA radial caps instead of polystyrene. I have build them with both and without some sort of forensic examination, I cannot tell the difference. I will say that unless your board is laid out for axial polystryene capacitors, it will require you to get creative dealing with placement while stuffing boards designed for radial caps. And if you are newer to DIY you might destroy them in process by overheating them.

- Unless you have a specific, trusted distributor who tests NOS transistors, Use MPSA18 and place them backwards in relation to the silkscreen on the board. I used to seek out older active components for building vintage designs but after getting a batch of bad transistors to build a stereo ADR Compex 760, I said never again. It was already a troubleshooting PhD thesis and then having to disassemble it several times before finding out that dozens of the NOS batch of transistors were bad. You have been warned.

- Transformers will make a difference. I have had great results with Carnhill, Ed Anderson, and AMI. Currently all of my new builds use AMI.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[inf0]

I greatly appreciate both your replies!
I might have sold myself short by saying I'm a beginner , compared to the majority of the users here I am but I know my way around a few things

I am currently cross referencing an amazing guide by Mathieu Cantin and deciding whether I should go with the card route or use one of the pcbs available.
I'm not specifically trying to recreate the end all be all clone but whatever I could do to get me closer to that original neve "texture" , the better.

Thanks again!

 

[KrIVIUM2323]

I think you get two advice saying same thing, there should be something about it.

I agree 100% with Paul advice.
Transformers are the most important component to the classic Neve sound imho ( once you use the recommended transistor and capacitors and you calibrate the whole thing as it should be).

I don't know AMI, but have used Carnhill in the past, i've got a NLA Sowter on one 1290 clone i built long time ago (ref 8751) and invested in Kraftwerk's lo1166 reproduction recently. I find them excellent sounding, worth every penny i spent in them ( take a look in the Black Market if interested). And Kraftwerk being located in EU mainland it makes thing easier to me.

For the mic input i used original i sold long time ago and Carnhill in the past. I wonder which one is losest to an original in current offer. The easier to source is probably Carnhill. UTM offer some too but idk how they compare to original or Carnhill?

 

[inf0]

I was very curious about Kraftwerk's transformer! I've been following his work on facebook for a while now and seems very promising. I also have an original st.ives for the input but still haven't purchased the output one. Might give it a go !

 

[KrIVIUM2323]

Lucky one to have an original St.Ives input. Don't make the mistake to sold it as i did...