Feeler: an "Eee-Zzz" christmas present...ez1073 and ez1073-500

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Extremely approximately .....  The circuit takes about 120mA (at 24v).... so the mains current at 240v will be only 12mA (or 24mA at 120v).... so a 100mA slow blow mains fuse will be plenty.

Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com
 
Here is my build so far,

just wondering if I have to raise the voltage regular as it sits a little below the screw hole.  Just wondering if I have enough meat on the head sink in order for it to stay cool.

-Scott
 

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Thanks man, can't wait to use it hahaha.

Another question for you guys.  Going to order the standoffs but don't know what to do.  I am going to get 5mm standoffs but do I get 2 short screws for each standoff or a longer screw to go through the bottom of the case through the standoff and then trough the pcb with a lock washer and then the nut?  Would a 10mm screw do the job?  Should I get longer or shorter,  I am going to get DDT's case for this ez-1073.  Just don't know if I should do two screws per standoff or just one long one which seems easier.

Thanks guys
-Scott

 
Just a quick question,

What ohms setting should I use for my akg c414buls mic?  the 300 or 1200?

My build is done just need a fuse from digikey and the case from DDT.

Can't wait to hear it.

Thanks
 
Ok Guys Build is complete,

I plug it in and though that it didn't work because I did not hear anything buzzing from the transformers and the little led was not lighting up.  What is this little led on the right side for?  Maybe i ruined it when soldering?

I tested it out with my DAW and its sounds fantastic can't wait to work with it this week.  I am just waiting on some screws and standoffs from digikey and can't wait to see the case and panel from DDT.  An easy build for the most part just wish I knew what the led was for.

-Scott
 

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The LED is just a "power good" indicator..... it should light if the 48v and 24v DC are both good..... check the 24v and 48v rails (on the power tabs).... if they are both OK then the fault is with the indicator circuit..... did you fit the LED the correct way round ?

Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com
 
yea it was backwards, I though since the capacitors had the positive long stem on the left so did this led, oh well live and learn, now its case ready.

 
i think you need to make another run from this 1U 1073 boards...there's a lot of interest about that.I dont have the budget to buy those kits in the moment,but i will buy a few boards if they gonna be available.We can show the interest in this thread and make that run.
 
Just curious as to what the screws actually do on the r10 and r20 resistors?  Its page 27 of the colorbook.  I did not touch them!!!!!!

 
resistors with screws are Trimmers!  it's like a potentiometer that you adjust with a screwdriver, except instead of a 360 degree range of movement, you usualyl get something like 10-30 complete rotations for the range of movement.

They're usually for Calibration.
 
I guess I don't need to calibrate as there was no mention in the Colour-book.  And everything seems to be working great.

Any suggestions on a great compressor to compliment this preamp?

Thanks
 
Appologies.... I seem to have omitted the calibration from the colourbook.... without trimming they will work fine anyway.... as you have already discovered.

R10 adjusts the 48v... if you measure the 48v tab (with respect to analogue ground) you will probably find it is about 46.5v.... adjust R10 to give you 48v.

R20 adjusts the bias of the output transistor..... measure the voltage across R26 (1 Ohm)... it will be about 70 - 80mV... adjust R20 to increase the voltage to 120mV.

Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com

 

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