Slenderchap
Well-known member
Looks correct for 230v operation.
Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com
Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com
Ninuz said:SorryNinuz said:Slenderchap said:That is correct for 220/240v operation..... it should only take about 15mA from the mains so a 100mA Slow Blow should be OK
Do you have a bench power supply with current limiting outputs ?
If you can.... power up your unit using the DC feed spade terminals and limit the bench power suply to about 400mA at 24v..... see if it power up OK..... this way you will know if the fault is in the audio circuit or power supply circuit.
Also check that the case of teh 2N3055 isn't shorted to the analogue ground plane..... the screw pad is only just big enough for the shakeproof washer.
Colin Adshead
www.audiomaintenance.com
I been putting some time aside to try and get 2 of my units to work but still get blown 100mA fuses.
The 48v rail works fine with the rail connected to the secondary wires from the main trafo as long as I don't have the white 24v cables connected to the PCB.
I got a bench power supply to Feed the 24v tab limiting to 400mA as Colin recommended and then I get the power led glowing.
Feeding the 24v rail I get a current draw of around 100mA without adjusting the BIAS Output.
Yesterday I tried connecting Line audio through both units one att a time and both units seems like they work as they should including the EQ section. This was done taking 48v from the main trafo and 24v from the bench supply.
I measured the white cables ( sec trafo ) and get around 27v AC
From this I suppose the problem is somewhere between the main trafo and the 24v tab. Looked for shorts and components placed facing the wrong side but can't find anything wrong there.
Any suggestions anybody? Places to measure or other tips?
Would really like to get them racked up so I can start using them.
Thanks in advance!
Sorry for nagging all of you
Anybody with any thoughts on my problem?
Have all 4 units with the same problem so Im wondering if the problem is in the PSU Wire'ing. They are all blowing fuses immediatly when the main transformer is conected to the main power outlet ( 240v ). Fuses used 100mA slow blow.
Att this point I even tried to feed current with my Lab Power Supply all the way back att the + point on the bridge rectifier on the 24 DC rail. I get the unit working powering this way with the 2 white transformer wires diskonekted. All the units are taking around 100mA in current. With the Lab power supply I get no indikations of problems.
Att the same time I do have the 2 red wires on the 48 rail connected to the main transformer and getting the "power ok LED" to light upp.
Any thoughts?
BryanJHarris said:are you not doing the 500 series kits anymore?
pfandlermichael said:Hey my name is Michael and I´m new here.
I built the EZ1073 as my first bigger project and so far it sounds amazing (thanks Colin!).
But I have one problem:
There is a crackling noise when I switch to Mic. It´s not there when I select Line.
Moreover it´s just there when I switch on the 48V-Phantom Power. First it´s louder and within some seconds it gets quieter but it doesn´t go away completely.
The crackling is louder if there is no microphone connected to the Preamp and gets quieter as I connect the microphone but still doesn´t go away completely.
To me that sounds like there´s a problem in the Mic-Section or the Phantom Power-Section.
I checked everything for dry solder joints (re-soldered every joint) but it didn´t fix the problem.
As I first turn on the Preamp there was smoke from the r23 because of a short in the 2N3055 and it´s heatsink, but I fixed this and changed the resistor.
Is there a chance that the crackling problem has something to do with that?
Has anybody an idea what to check next?
I have a basic multimeter so I can measure some components but I don´t realy know where to start.
Greets
Michael
stribor1 said:Just finalizing my built, go the collective case and have some problems. The grayhill/bourns holes in the front panel are not countersunk so I end up having the PCB pretty close to the front panel in order to have sufficient threads to mount the nuts. Because of that there is not enough clearance and the grayhill/bourns pins touch the bottom plate. Anyone else encountered this problem?
Of course I could route out the 14mm countersunk holes but the faceplate is already painted and I'm afraid the paint will chip...
Aaronrash said:Lol,
Dan gave you my Silkscreen design
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