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:oops:

Sorry Guys i had a wrong value resistor, instead of 1k82 on R8 i had something like 450K :shock:

Its working now.....i had some oscilations but i moved the trimmer a little...just by ear....just to make sure it can sound good!

Now just to finish the Spectrasonics 101 racked on the same case...and i'll post pix!!!

Thanks Guys...
 
[quote author="jarlehal"]

insideout: you mean trimmers on R4 and R9 right? And you got them down to 12v? What's the voltage over R5 and R10 then (FETs out) ? Please report back when you have done your "signal-thru".[/quote]

ok, have done some more on this. So i had set the 4v across r5/10 with the 100k bias trimmers, then got 12v at c2/c4 by using 5k trimmers in place of r3/8.

revisiting the voltages with all components in, across r5/10 they are both down about 0.4v. ie they now read about 3.6v.

volts at c2=12v (ie hasn't changed), but volts at c4=13.4 (ie up 1.4v).

THe audio through the mic input is not flash.

With fetboy gain on full, acoustic guitar strummed with pick, studio projects b3 about 10 inches away, going into a motu828 balanced line in, I get about -30 to -25db in my DAW and it sounds like a fuzz box! (I knew it was supposed to be a funky design, but....).

By comparison, if I plug that same mic into the motu mic pre and trim it down as far as I can, I get a similar level but much nicer sound. So I'm guessing that the gain stages in the fetboy are somewhat off, as indicated by the voltages I have? (tho other threads seem to indicate they are near enough)

audio through the DI sounds really good, though a little low in level? A P-bass with EMG's, with fetboy gain on full, going into the same moto balanced line in, comes up in the DAW at about -15db. But it sounds good, unlike the mic input! Which I find a bit odd, seeing as there's only the transformer and a couple of bits difference in signal paths? (I used 100k for RL).

would the next step be to tweak the trims to get the volatges back to 4 & 12, or is that just barking up the wrong tree and I need to find those fets that give 12v? Or, seeing as the DI sounds ok if a little low, do I need to examine the components in the mic input path?
- Mike
 
Insideout : one of my preamps were acting like yours....look your resistors, i had a way to large value resistor guess where? R7
 
[quote author="3nity"]Insideout : one of my preamps were acting like yours....look your resistors, i had a way to large value resistor guess where? R7[/quote]

will do. I just cranked up module 2 without any of the 5 k trimmers, just put the 2n5457's that read about 15v in and it works fine. So I took the 5k trimmers out of module 1, put the 1k82 resistors back in, no improvement. So I guess I'm into routine troubleshooting mode on module 1. Probably fried something in all the fiddling around.....!
 
all going now. On module 1, which had low gain & distortion, there was no connection between the gate of Q5 and the wiper of the volume pot. Until I found and corrected this, volts across r6 & r7 were unstable and a loud buzz was audible when trying to measure v at the gate (Q5 pin3).

The only reason I can see for this happening is that there was no connection between the top and bottom pads. There was nothing wrong with the solder joint on the bottom, but I had to solder on the top side as well to get a connection to the wiper. I had the same situation (with different pads) somewhere else earlier, but picked it up at the time.

Now both modules are working the question is, is there anything to be achieved by putting those trimmers in instead of r3 & r8 to get the junction at c2 & c4 respectively down to 12 volts??? Obviously it wasn't them causing the problems in module 1.

- Mike
 
Got my Motorola 2N5457s yesterday, and went on measuring them on my board. My supplier was short, so I only got 20 of them. The majority of them gave me about 14V (before C2 and C4). A few as high as 17V, and then finally two that gave 12.5V and two at 12.9V

Close enough guys?

I also have a few mpsa14 coming in from Germany. Worth swapping out the BD139-16s for these? I have another board to build, so I guess I'll use mpsa14 for that. But I only need to fit one mpsa14 for each BD139-16 (darlington) pair right?
 
The only difference between the self-made, two BD139 darlington pair and the single package darlington mpsa14 should be hfe. It would seem that simply higher is better in output emitter follower duty.

If you do install mpsa14 on Fabio's FETBoy board, you'll have the jumper the base and emitter pads of Q2 and work with the different pinout for Q3, BD139 is ECB, while the MPSA14 is EBC.
 
I got 100 2N5457s from DasMusikding. They are Fairchild but different than the ones I got from Bryan. Went through only 10 of them to find 4 that got me to the right voltages at the caps.

If anyone need 2N5457s with a fair chance of fitting the Fetboy, let me know. I'll send you the pack of 90 for free. Just promise to offer the spares to the next one that comes along.
 
Anybody want to buy a pair of Fetboys with case and psu!!!??  Just kidding.

I've spent many hours this afternoon trying to get my Fetboys up and running. The first clue that something is wrong is that I couldn't get the trimmers below about 4.5v. I stuck in some Fets and found a couple in the 12v range (I'm using some gold pin Motorolas) and fired it up. It passes audio but has some noise, hiss, and hum!!!
Moving the transformer made a bit of a difference but only having it outside the case. The pot does increase the noise and there is no noise with the pot down. I rewired all the grounds to the diagram Matta shared a few pages back and that didn't help. I removed C1 and actually got oscillations instead. And if you leave the preamp for about 60 seconds with no signal through it a pulsing noise begins and the hum gets louder until you play audio again.

The second one shorts out the power supply and r5 smokes but I'm pretty sure I had it passing audio before.
I got these as kits from Ptown a while ago. I measured each resistor before installing it and had no left over parts but something could be installed wrong.

Any ideas on what could be wrong? These have been sitting too long without working.
 
I did some experimenting this morning. I switched out the SSL9k power supply for a PowerOne and that helped some. It's still noisy as all hell!! With nothing connected to the input I noticed the noise level didn't change by flipping the PAD.
Is it possible the noise could be coming from the BD139's? I switched the 5457's to another pair and the noise didn't change. My voltage at r5 is 4.03v but at r10 its 4.45v (the trimmer won't lower it anymore than that but still turns) And I've cleaned the board and checked for joints shorting to ground that shouldn't be.
 
mines running on jlm audio's 48v switching supply with their 48-24 volt converter and its very quiet.  do you have the pot and jack on board or off.  if they are off you may want to use shielded cable.
 
I posted my noisy fetboys up in the Black Market for a couple of hours and then took them down again. I really need to get these done and decide if I like them before I do that. After all of the beating my head against the work bench I did on this project, I gave up on DIY for a while. Not to mention some back problems I had.

But now I'm going to go at this fresh.

1. I'm going to ditch the PSU I was using and opt for the JLM TREX with the JLM switching PSU. Already ordered it. Nice and simple and outside of the chassis.

2. I'm going to reexamine all of the grounds. Would it be good to take the solder tab from the pot to the star ground? Is it possible that the pot needs to be isolated from the chassis somehow?

3. Change R3 and R8 for trimmers to get the proper voltages for the transistors.


This should get me going in the right direction I think.

Matt
 
nice idea i did order 1 trex last night too..but mine for another project if all works well i'll change all my psus for the trex.
 
I haven't received the new TREX yet, but looking over the fetboy board, it seem that the BD139's need to be soldered on the top as well as the bottom in some of the pads. Mine don't look so good to me. I guess the inside of the hole is tinned to begin with, but that doesn't mean I'm getting a good connection I suppose. Anyone else noticed this?

Matt
 
Matt i dont think its a problem there.
the holes are trough plated....so theres always a connection!
I'm still waiting for the TREX too.
Good luck.
Jorge.
 
fucanay said:
I haven't received the new TREX yet, but looking over the fetboy board, it seem that the BD139's need to be soldered on the top as well as the bottom in some of the pads. Mine don't look so good to me. I guess the inside of the hole is tinned to begin with, but that doesn't mean I'm getting a good connection I suppose. Anyone else noticed this?

Matt
I definately had a problem like this with one of my fetboy boards, had to solder the top as well. Wasn't the BD139's, it was something else, can't recall what. Shouldn't have been a problem, but it was!
-Mike
 
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