Genelec 7060b transformer taps needed

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camarada78

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 4, 2014
Messages
162
Location
Rio de Janeiro - Brasil
I have a Genelec 7060 subwoofer with a dead transformer (primary opened) and it would be very costly to get a new one from Genelec here in Rio. Are there any alternatives?

I dont know the taps, but It seems to be around 50v/0/50v and 15v/0/15v toroidal with 6(!) primary taps (for 115-240v and maybe something else. Anyone knows where to search for this part? i'm out of ideas. there is no schematic.
 
I have one here and have just measured the secondaries unloaded.

It is 17.7v 0 17.7v
40.5v 0 40.5v.

So probably 15v / 35v or thereabouts.


This is actually a 7060A model.
I have just ordered a replacement power amp kit, since the STK modules are unobtanium, and Genelec upgraded to a TDA based board for the 7060B.
The kit comprises the power amp and heatsink/grille from a 7060B, so it looks like the power supply will be the same in both these versions.
 
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17+17 is what i thought since its using 7815/7915.

but 40v x 40v is a little less than i thought, the board is written +52v/-52v.

But that makes sense since its using a STK 433-130 which is rated for 44v ideal vcc voltage.

Maybe its maximum voltage on the board.

the circuit is very simple there, its mostly a linear rectifier, a STK 433-130 (which ebay is full of it) and another rectifier with 78/7915 regulators for 15+15.
 
You cannot buy an STK433-130 on Ebay or anywhere else that isn't a fake.

It will blow up very shortly after you install it.
 
I have no idea, and it doesn't really matter since you won't be looking for the exact replacement.

Just get a toroid with the correct primary for your country.
 
yea, here in Rio its 127v. So i would kill the 220v switch but it really doesnt matter. I think i'll order a 40+40/15+15 3a transformer and give it a go.

Thanks a lot for that info.
 
Just got another unrelated 7060A in today.

Unloaded, these transformer secondaries are 18.1v 0 18.1v and 41.6v 0 41.6v.
Mains voltage is 245.5v at the moment, so this is at the upper limit of what's to be expected.
 
Hello again, thanks a lot for your help.

we've managed to make it work with a new transformer following the original specs (the thermal fuse was blown), we put it with the original stk433 but it is distorting a lot. loud humming after 5-10 minutes working. unusable.

We narrow it down to the 433 and... we've installed these generic ebay stk 433 and none worked. not even a blowing up sound. dead silent. i wonder if these fakes have even the same pins.

What is this power amp module you got? is it straight from genelec?
 
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It is a "kit" supplied by Genelec comprising the Grille and amplifier PCB.

In the UK you can get them from HHB, UK distributor, but they are rather expensive.
"P/N 7060B-702 Amplifier Kit with Grille for 7060B" is what HHB call it.

It took several weeks to get mine.
 
ok cool. genelec here in rio wont sell us spares. and they are charging around 750usd to fix this thing.

i wonder if I figure what the 10 pin (J5 connector) do i could use another entirely different amplifier. no schematics for this unit yet
 
i have the same issue on a 7070a subwoofer.
would you expect an identical transformer with more current in there ?
i noticed that the driver is dual voice coil and there are two stk modules in there.
 
since there was no answer so far i'll let you know what i found out.
first of all the output AC! voltage of the transformer doesn't translate to the same rectified and filtered dc voltage. if you measure with a proper rms meter on the unloaded transformer taps, you'll need to multiply that voltage by squareroot of 2 (1,41...something).
So 35V AC equals to roughly 50V DC rectified and filtered.

Based on the power rating of the sub that equals to twice a 7060 and looking at my amp module, i'm making the assumption that i'm dealing with two 433-130 modules.

the other rail(s) are based on the mentioned 78/7915 regulators that will take up to 30V

so a transformer up to 40v and 17V AC should be doing fine !

i recently got a harman kardong avr transformer gifted that might do the trick.

will do further measurements when i get back home.

I found this list of stk modules in case someone can reference

STK433-090-E STK433-100-E STK433-120-E STK433-130-E
Output 1 (10%/1kHz) 80W×2 channels 100W×2 channels 120W×2 channels 150W×2 channels
Output 2 (0.4%/20Hz to 20kHz) 50W×2 channels 60W×2 channels 80W×2 channels 100W×2 channels
Max. rated VCC (quiescent) ±54V ±57V ±65V ±71.5V
Max. rated VCC (6Ω) ±47V ±50V ±57V ±63V
Recommended operating VCC (6Ω) ±33V ±35V ±40V ±44V
 
since there was no answer so far i'll let you know what i found out.
first of all the output AC! voltage of the transformer doesn't translate to the same rectified and filtered dc voltage. if you measure with a proper rms meter on the unloaded transformer taps, you'll need to multiply that voltage by squareroot of 2 (1,41...something).
So 35V AC equals to roughly 50V DC rectified and filtered.

Based on the power rating of the sub that equals to twice a 7060 and looking at my amp module, i'm making the assumption that i'm dealing with two 433-130 modules.

the other rail(s) are based on the mentioned 78/7915 regulators that will take up to 30V

so a transformer up to 40v and 17V AC should be doing fine !

i recently got a harman kardong avr transformer gifted that might do the trick.

will do further measurements when i get back home.

I found this list of stk modules in case someone can reference

STK433-090-E STK433-100-E STK433-120-E STK433-130-E
Output 1 (10%/1kHz) 80W×2 channels 100W×2 channels 120W×2 channels 150W×2 channels
Output 2 (0.4%/20Hz to 20kHz) 50W×2 channels 60W×2 channels 80W×2 channels 100W×2 channels
Max. rated VCC (quiescent) ±54V ±57V ±65V ±71.5V
Max. rated VCC (6Ω) ±47V ±50V ±57V ±63V
Recommended operating VCC (6Ω) ±33V ±35V ±40V ±44V
My 7070a toroid failed as sell. Did you ever find the replacement toroid?
 
This is a bit of a long shot, but the Genelec 1029A toroid transformer has a built in non resettable thermal fuse on the primary.
Possibly this is to ensure your house etc doesn't burn down should it fail slowly.

You might have a look to ensure your toroid isn't equipped with the same, which you could theoretically bypass, if you don't mind the risk of your house etc burning down.
 

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