reston2010mm-orders@yahoo
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The following problems were fixed on a 1030A model unit here which had intermittent and scratchy audio response or cut-outs. The 1030A model parts are similar to parts & designs used in other Genelec models. Hopefully these comments will be useful. But first, I wish to thank those who posted previously on the troublesome socket connections on their Genelec units. OK, here goes:
1.. The XLR socket on rear panel: Over time the three internal pin receptacle alignments weaken and bend, causing erratic audio, or no electrical contact at all for audio input. Good quality replacement sockets are available, including Amphenol brand. A quicker option is to use an extremely thin and very sharp needle to work and bend the internal metal pins (barely seen inside the socket), moving them towards the center of the pin holes, to ensure adequate mechanical connection with the mating pins from external XLR jacks.
2.. The small three-conductor audio ribbon wire on the back of the XLR socket, on my unit, needed to be re-soldered to the three solder pins on the XLR socket. Not difficult, if done carefully. Take note of the pin wiring, any shorting wire that may be present, and any resistor that may be present.
3.. The same ribbon wire, with its three conductors, at its far end needed to be removed and straightened from the small plastic socket, then each wire soldered to the pins on the plastic connector, which is attached to the PCB board. From the factory, there is no solder used for these connections. Take care adding solder. Just a very tiny dot of solder will work.
4.. The plug and socket for the cable assembly coming from the speakers, with its six colored wire conductors, needed careful soldering. In doing so, the female side of the connector with its six wires can be soldered by first removing each of the six wires/pins, one by one, and attaching a small dot of solder for each, usually at the very end where the wire is visible coming out of the crimp. Very little solder is needed. From the factory, those pins/wires are not soldered, but rather, they're crimped. To remove the pins from the socket, there is a tiny clip on each pin that has to be pressed to allow pin removal.
5.. Also, the male plug assembly that is soldered to the PCB board, with its six pins, had broken solder joints on all six of its soldered connections on the PCB. These broken solder joints are not easily seen. In the unit here, just touching one of the six wires was enough to wiggle the original (broken) solder connections, causing loss of audio. A loud audio bass boom response will do the same. Those PCB solder points can be easily resoldered. Use a liberal amount of solder, as doing so will add to the socket's overall mechanical stability mount on the PCB board.
6.. The original heat sink compound used for the two large transistor amplifiers on the PCB may need to be removed and replaced with new compound. It is important that the removal process be done carefully and completely, leaving no residue. Check with the manufacturer. If in doubt, see instructions for ArctiClean or similar compounds, and compound removal products. Much care should be taken to ensure the new compound is applied according to instructions, usually using as thin a layer of compound as possible, or according to instructions. When reassembling the PCB board to the heatsink panel, take care to tighten the screws firmly as recommended by the manufacturer.
7.. If you are at all uneasy with the described DIY repairs, it's then best to have a qualified technician perform the work. Good luck.
1.. The XLR socket on rear panel: Over time the three internal pin receptacle alignments weaken and bend, causing erratic audio, or no electrical contact at all for audio input. Good quality replacement sockets are available, including Amphenol brand. A quicker option is to use an extremely thin and very sharp needle to work and bend the internal metal pins (barely seen inside the socket), moving them towards the center of the pin holes, to ensure adequate mechanical connection with the mating pins from external XLR jacks.
2.. The small three-conductor audio ribbon wire on the back of the XLR socket, on my unit, needed to be re-soldered to the three solder pins on the XLR socket. Not difficult, if done carefully. Take note of the pin wiring, any shorting wire that may be present, and any resistor that may be present.
3.. The same ribbon wire, with its three conductors, at its far end needed to be removed and straightened from the small plastic socket, then each wire soldered to the pins on the plastic connector, which is attached to the PCB board. From the factory, there is no solder used for these connections. Take care adding solder. Just a very tiny dot of solder will work.
4.. The plug and socket for the cable assembly coming from the speakers, with its six colored wire conductors, needed careful soldering. In doing so, the female side of the connector with its six wires can be soldered by first removing each of the six wires/pins, one by one, and attaching a small dot of solder for each, usually at the very end where the wire is visible coming out of the crimp. Very little solder is needed. From the factory, those pins/wires are not soldered, but rather, they're crimped. To remove the pins from the socket, there is a tiny clip on each pin that has to be pressed to allow pin removal.
5.. Also, the male plug assembly that is soldered to the PCB board, with its six pins, had broken solder joints on all six of its soldered connections on the PCB. These broken solder joints are not easily seen. In the unit here, just touching one of the six wires was enough to wiggle the original (broken) solder connections, causing loss of audio. A loud audio bass boom response will do the same. Those PCB solder points can be easily resoldered. Use a liberal amount of solder, as doing so will add to the socket's overall mechanical stability mount on the PCB board.
6.. The original heat sink compound used for the two large transistor amplifiers on the PCB may need to be removed and replaced with new compound. It is important that the removal process be done carefully and completely, leaving no residue. Check with the manufacturer. If in doubt, see instructions for ArctiClean or similar compounds, and compound removal products. Much care should be taken to ensure the new compound is applied according to instructions, usually using as thin a layer of compound as possible, or according to instructions. When reassembling the PCB board to the heatsink panel, take care to tighten the screws firmly as recommended by the manufacturer.
7.. If you are at all uneasy with the described DIY repairs, it's then best to have a qualified technician perform the work. Good luck.
