Great!And another rev3 board populated except 1 100nf and 4 bi caps for the output(banzai ship now pls!) this was quite therapeutic to do and now I’m hating resistors but I’m glad I’m dipping my toes into diy, already thinking of next build
So all those are just ground? and then I should bridge the (PSU) labeled to? What kind of connectors do you suggest?Great!
Remember to add some jumpers on the ground nodes.
They will probably just be connected on a later revision, but on early versions, it can be nice to have them isolated to work around any problems.
Gustav
Not sure what you are asking, so Ill just say this.So all those are just ground? and then I should bridge the (PSU) labeled to? What kind of connectors do you suggest?
So from my understanding , jumper all pads for AGND / 0V/ Relay / PSU / DRV . And use the big pads to connect to the case as star grounding?Not sure what you are asking, so Ill just say this.
Grounds are
Relay grounds.
Audio (from XLRs - you can omit this, if you ground them to case direct - we will know down the line what works better)
0 (general GND for opamps etc)
PSU the ground running through the pour in the PSU section
DRV - grounds on the buffer for VCA driver, which are a little sensitive in this design.
Theres a solder pad so you can connect it to the case.
Gustav
Okey I took a break and some dinner. Came back and read it again and now I understandNot sure what you are asking, so Ill just say this.
Grounds are
Relay grounds.
Audio (from XLRs - you can omit this, if you ground them to case direct - we will know down the line what works better)
0 (general GND for opamps etc)
PSU the ground running through the pour in the PSU section
DRV - grounds on the buffer for VCA driver, which are a little sensitive in this design.
Theres a solder pad so you can connect it to the case.
Gustav
Just put jumpers in all of them.So from my understanding , jumper all pads for AGND / 0V/ Relay / PSU / DRV . And use the big pads to connect to the case as star grounding?
I don't understand which one to ommit in case we connect them to the case direct
Grounding is my nemesis , learning a lot everyday as well !
Thank you !Just put jumpers in all of them.
If you commit a pin 1 from an XLR to case direct, you can omit the one marked AGND
Gustav
Let's wait for Gustav to confirm but from what I've saved , those are R59+R60 . That need to be replaced with a jumper or 0R resistor@Gustav can we have a Gerber export whit the designator instead of values in the top silkscreen? Think I got the R59,R60 wrong. Thanks.
As far as wire gauge, I typically use 22awg for anything carrying signal, CV, low current DC such as LED indicators, and such; and 18awg for mains AC and PSU DC output (which I think is handled on the PCB in this case - I don't know as I haven't actually received my boards yet) and heaters in tube designs. This is NOT a scientific approach, to be clear - for example there are plenty of cases where 24 or 26awg would be fine for signal, etc etc, you could certainly do the math on any given wire connection and make that determination more precisely, but the approach I described above is good for the average situation (certainly for the GSSL) and provides the benefit of only requiring me to have a regular stash of two different wire gauges on hand.Is there any recommended gauge size for the cables for Vu meter? Pots? Etc
And how big fuse in the IEC? 250V a?
Thanks man! That sounds sweet to only have 2 variants I agreeAs far as wire gauge, I typically use 22awg for anything carrying signal, CV, low current DC such as LED indicators, and such; and 18awg for mains AC and PSU DC output (which I think is handled on the PCB in this case - I don't know as I haven't actually received my boards yet) and heaters in tube designs. This is NOT a scientific approach, to be clear - for example there are plenty of cases where 24 or 26awg would be fine for signal, etc etc, you could certainly do the math on any given wire connection and make that determination more precisely, but the approach I described above is good for the average situation (certainly for the GSSL) and provides the benefit of only requiring me to have a regular stash of two different wire gauges on hand.
So a servo kabel is enough? seems cheapAs far as wire gauge, I typically use 22awg for anything carrying signal, CV, low current DC such as LED indicators, and such; and 18awg for mains AC and PSU DC output (which I think is handled on the PCB in this case - I don't know as I haven't actually received my boards yet) and heaters in tube designs. This is NOT a scientific approach, to be clear - for example there are plenty of cases where 24 or 26awg would be fine for signal, etc etc, you could certainly do the math on any given wire connection and make that determination more precisely, but the approach I described above is good for the average situation (certainly for the GSSL) and provides the benefit of only requiring me to have a regular stash of two different wire gauges on hand.
I think servo is usually 22awg, so basically yes. I think that servo differs from typical hookup wire in that it uses thinner strands but more of them to create the same overall diameter. For our purposes, that would just mean you'd want to be mindful when stripping the ends (thinner strands might make it easier to clip a few by accident). But I see no reason you couldn't use it.So a servo kabel is enough? seems cheap
Any big difference to use a shielded labeled audio cable 24awg (4in1) ? I can get both of the cables from a local store. Or am I overthinking this now? I just want GOOD QUALITY stuff in my new babyI think servo is usually 22awg, so basically yes. I think that servo differs from typical hookup wire in that it uses thinner strands but more of them to create the same overall diameter. For our purposes, that would just mean you'd want to be mindful when stripping the ends (thinner strands might make it easier to clip a few by accident). But I see no reason you couldn't use it.
Any big difference to use a shielded labeled audio cable 24awg (4in1) ? I can get both of the cables from a local store. Or am I overthinking this now? I just want GOOD QUALITY stuff in my new baby
I'd use the servo, personally. Nothing wrong with the four conductor shielded cable, but you'll have connections that don't require four conductors and the shield is probably unnecessary in this design (and it adds an additionally consideration - does it need to be grounded at one end? Maybe or maybe not, and if so, where will you make that connection?)Any big difference to use a shielded labeled audio cable 24awg (4in1) ? I can get both of the cables from a local store. Or am I overthinking this now?
Yeah you are right! I will buy the servo cables. Thanks JMan!I'd use the servo, personally. Nothing wrong with the four conductor shielded cable, but you'll have connections that don't require four conductors and the shield is probably unnecessary in this design (and it adds an additionally consideration - does it need to be grounded at one end? Maybe or maybe not, and if so, where will you make that connection?)
Yes was doing that but in the wrong place on the board but this pic is the way right? Edit: Ok I saw your edited answer whit pic and the same pic I attached. Thanks GustavYou are overthinkinging it.
The resistors you want to verify. Use your meter set to continuity, find the connected opamp, and check for connections to opamps terminals.
Gustav