GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[MeToo2]

Well, I got mine running this week. All the controls work and in compresses but my right side is 6db louder than my left side.

The voltages at each of the input 5534's and the output 5532's are nearly identical.

Near idential voltages for the left and right 5534's in the VCA circuit.

I've rechecked the resistors around the VCA's as well as around the input and output areas. The 15K resistors feeding the VCAs are good.

I've check the wiring 5 times at the inout and output XLR headers and those are good.

I've scoured for bad solders joints with a magnifying glass and checked for broken traces.

The only place I could see an issue is a ground pad in the output section. There's a 100n cap that goes to pin 8 of a 5532 (I think it's the left output. It the closest 5532 to the edge of the board on the bottom left hand side.) The other end of the cap goes to ground. I looks like the ground pad might have lifted but I tried a direct connection to ground and it made no differnce which is why I think it's ok.

I read in a older post about checking the voltages at the XLR pins and I get 0V at pins 2 and 3 against pin 1 (ground) with a 1k signal running through it.

I'm using THAT 2181 VCAs

I'm also running unbalanced cables from my interface to balanced on the GSSL. I've tried swapping cables but that didn't work either

I'm using star grounding. The input grounds are wired together and sent to ground and each output ground is wired together and sent to ground.

I'm running out of options to try. Any guesses as what it might be???

6dB difference sounds suspiciously like only half of your output driver is working on one channel.
The left one looks dodgy.

When you say you measured 0v on the XLR relative to pin 1 I presume that was DC (otherwise you wouldn't hear any signal at all).
Have you measured AC?
A signal should be easily measurable with an AC multimeter of quite a few mV when you send a 100Hz or 1KHz test tone at -10dBm.

If you've got a scope, trace out the signals, especially looking for differences between the two channels for (ac) measurements made on pin 6 & 7 of the two NE5532's.
That will tell you if the problem is on the input (10K from the +ve phase) or on the output (-ve phase).
Check for shorts and open circuits around the NE5532 (I remember the board is pretty tight in some spots there)
Check the wiring of your output XLR's to make sure the hot (pin 2) & cold (pin 3) are wired correctly, and are not shorted to pin 1 (multimeter in resistance mode with gssl powered off) and that they are connected to the 100uF electrolytic output caps.
Check the 100uF electrolytics are inserted the correct way around.
You could also try swapping the two NE5532 chips over to see if one of them has failed (presuming you've used sockets).

 

[wahfreak]

6dB difference sounds suspiciously like only half of your output driver is working on one channel.
The left one looks dodgy.

When you say you measured 0v on the XLR relative to pin 1 I presume that was DC (otherwise you wouldn't hear any signal at all).
Have you measured AC?
A signal should be easily measurable with an AC multimeter of quite a few mV when you send a 100Hz or 1KHz test tone at -10dBm.

If you've got a scope, trace out the signals, especially looking for differences between the two channels for (ac) measurements made on pin 6 & 7 of the two NE5532's.
That will tell you if the problem is on the input (10K from the +ve phase) or on the output (-ve phase).
Check for shorts and open circuits around the NE5532 (I remember the board is pretty tight in some spots there)
Check the wiring of your output XLR's to make sure the hot (pin 2) & cold (pin 3) are wired correctly, and are not shorted to pin 1 (multimeter in resistance mode with gssl powered off) and that they are connected to the 100uF electrolytic output caps.
Check the 100uF electrolytics are inserted the correct way around.
You could also try swapping the two NE5532 chips over to see if one of them has failed (presuming you've used sockets).

Thanks MeToo2

I swapped ICs - no change

Checked polarity of electrolytics - good

I measured AC at the output XLRs aginst pin 1 and read:

(L output) pin 2-1.905 VAC and  pin 3- 1.950VAC
(R output) pin 2- 1.965VAC and pin 3- 0.001VAC 

but from the header pins I measure:

(L output) pin 2-1.891 VAC and  pin 3- 1.896VAC
(R output) pin 2- 1.847VAC and pin 3- 1.843VAC


With the multimeter in resistance mode with gssl powered off, I checked for shorts and have shorts between pins 1, 2 and 3 on all inputs and outputs. They seem to rise slowly over time in the Mohm range (capacitance?)

As far as I can tell they are connected tot he 100uF caps.

 

[MeToo2]

6dB difference sounds suspiciously like only half of your output driver is working on one channel.
The left one looks dodgy.

When you say you measured 0v on the XLR relative to pin 1 I presume that was DC (otherwise you wouldn't hear any signal at all).
Have you measured AC?
A signal should be easily measurable with an AC multimeter of quite a few mV when you send a 100Hz or 1KHz test tone at -10dBm.

If you've got a scope, trace out the signals, especially looking for differences between the two channels for (ac) measurements made on pin 6 & 7 of the two NE5532's.
That will tell you if the problem is on the input (10K from the +ve phase) or on the output (-ve phase).
Check for shorts and open circuits around the NE5532 (I remember the board is pretty tight in some spots there)
Check the wiring of your output XLR's to make sure the hot (pin 2) & cold (pin 3) are wired correctly, and are not shorted to pin 1 (multimeter in resistance mode with gssl powered off) and that they are connected to the 100uF electrolytic output caps.
Check the 100uF electrolytics are inserted the correct way around.
You could also try swapping the two NE5532 chips over to see if one of them has failed (presuming you've used sockets).

Thanks MeToo2

I swapped ICs - no change

Checked polarity of electrolytics - good

I measured AC at the output XLRs aginst pin 1 and read:

(L output) pin 2-1.905 VAC and  pin 3- 1.950VAC
(R output) pin 2- 1.965VAC and pin 3- 0.001VAC 

but from the header pins I measure:

(L output) pin 2-1.891 VAC and  pin 3- 1.896VAC
(R output) pin 2- 1.847VAC and pin 3- 1.843VAC


With the multimeter in resistance mode with gssl powered off, I checked for shorts and have shorts between pins 1, 2 and 3 on all inputs and outputs. They seem to rise slowly over time in the Mohm range (capacitance?)

As far as I can tell they are connected tot he 100uF caps.

The headers are measuring the same on the hot and cold pins (as expected) but the XLR cold pin on the right channel is measuring 0V (not expected).

As far as I can see the, the GSSL board is working correctly and you have a clear cabling problem somewhere between the header and the XLR socket on one channel on the cold pin (pin 3).

Oddly enough though, your earlier post said that the _left_ channel was 6dB down, but these measurements clearly show that the _right_ channel is 6dB down....... was this measured before or after the chips were swapped? Has the problem now moved from left channel to right channel? Or  did you get a bit confused between left and right somewhere?


The resistance meter may indeed read incorrectly due to capacitance. Depends on the meter. Maybe remove the header from the board, and all connections to your interface temporarily, and buzz out the wires one at a time, checking for continuity and shorts to adjacent pins.

You mentioned using unbalanced cables to your interface. Are these really truly _identical_ for both channels? Have you also tried swapping these over just one more time to see if the fault moves channels? Because 6dB would also be explained by the use of an unbalanced cable (that connects pin 1 to pin 3).

 

[frazzman]

Hi guys, wondering if anyone can point in the right direction in debugging my GSSL (using 2180LB VCAs)

- Unit is powering on OK and is passing audio
- Getting good voltage on the power rails
- Left channel audio is normal volume, right channel audio is very very low. I've tried swapping ICs and VCAs backwards and forwards but the problem does not seem to shift between the channels
- Controls seem to do nothing, makes no difference to unit weather the control PCB is connected. -- everything is connected via headers
- I've checked everything by eye and resistor values caps all looks fine
- Unit doesn't sound like it is compressing at all and controls seem to have no effect - i haven't wired up the bypass yet either

Any ideas where to look?????

 

[wahfreak]

Hi guys, wondering if anyone can point in the right direction in debugging my GSSL (using 2180LB VCAs)

- Unit is powering on OK and is passing audio
- Getting good voltage on the power rails
- Left channel audio is normal volume, right channel audio is very very low. I've tried swapping ICs and VCAs backwards and forwards but the problem does not seem to shift between the channels
- Controls seem to do nothing, makes no difference to unit weather the control PCB is connected. -- everything is connected via headers
- I've checked everything by eye and resistor values caps all looks fine
- Unit doesn't sound like it is compressing at all and controls seem to have no effect - i haven't wired up the bypass yet either

Any ideas where to look?????

Wire the bypass. I think it's in bypass mode when it not hooked up.  This should at least get the controls working if it was wired right.

As far as the reduction in volume on one side, read my posts above, I'm having the same issue. I'll be working on mine later today.

 

[frazzman]

Hi guys, wondering if anyone can point in the right direction in debugging my GSSL (using 2180LB VCAs)

- Unit is powering on OK and is passing audio
- Getting good voltage on the power rails
- Left channel audio is normal volume, right channel audio is very very low. I've tried swapping ICs and VCAs backwards and forwards but the problem does not seem to shift between the channels
- Controls seem to do nothing, makes no difference to unit weather the control PCB is connected. -- everything is connected via headers
- I've checked everything by eye and resistor values caps all looks fine
- Unit doesn't sound like it is compressing at all and controls seem to have no effect - i haven't wired up the bypass yet either

Any ideas where to look?????

Wire the bypass. I think it's in bypass mode when it not hooked up.  This should at least get the controls working if it was wired right.

As far as the reduction in volume on one side, read my posts above, I'm having the same issue. I'll be working on mine later today.

thanks for the reply,

Yeah I just realised that it was stuck in bypass... I soldered a bridge between the two points near the 750K resistor on the control board it appears to have started working, volume and thresh seem to be working but hard to tell if compression is working properly with such a huge difference in gain on the channels....

right channel is still very low and has a slight hum. I've pain staking checked all resistors again ... no issues there.

I can't see any solder bridges anywhere but I suspect there must be some issue near the NE5532 IC's for the right channel but can't find anything...

Maybe XLR connector the right channel isn't wired properly...

I'll keep troubleshooting, let me know if you have any luck

 

[frazzman]

don't seem to be getting anywhere..... so far my unit is nothing more than a glorified volume knob

The makeup gain is working but none of the other controls seem to be having any effect.

I just noticed some strange on my ratio switch.

My PCBs (from AudioKitchen) seem to be different to the PCB layout in Gyrafs PDF!!!!

The rotary switch i've used has no 'centre' pin so there is a section on the PCB where there is nothing soldered in the ratio section.
Also - Gyrafs PDF shows 2x 27K resistors near the left and right VCA section, my board has 2x 15K resistors on the layout???

Also - just a thought does linking the two points near the 750k resistor on the control board keep the unit out of bypass mode in absence of a bypass switch?

 

[Harpo]

don't seem to be getting anywhere..... so far my unit is nothing more than a glorified volume knob

The makeup gain is working but none of the other controls seem to be having any effect.

So the audio part is working and you have placed a link next to the 750k instead of switching this connection to 'off' when in bypass mode in order to disable makeup gain as well.

I just noticed some strange on my ratio switch.

My PCBs (from AudioKitchen) seem to be different to the PCB layout in Gyrafs PDF!!!!

The rotary switch i've used has no 'centre' pin so there is a section on the PCB where there is nothing soldered in the ratio section.

Your switch will have 1, 2 or 4 pole pins around its center, not dead center. For ratio setting in a standard GSSL all (4x3, 2x6 or 1x12) will work, with the turbo addon you'd need at least the 2nd pole. Probably nothing wrong with your build. Did you have a look at the schematic? From this standard 4x3 rotary switch there is only 1 section used (you abuse another unconnected pole with the turbo addon). The switch is built symetrical. Just watch out for placing the end-stop washer to pos.3 AFTER turning the switch full ccw.

Also - Gyrafs PDF shows 2x 27K resistors near the left and right VCA section, my board has 2x 15K resistors on the layout???

For balanced out operation the 2x 27k or 2x 15k should be double the value of the (15k on GSSL) feedback resistors between NE5532 pins 6/7, for unbalanced out operation use same value resistors.

Also - just a thought does linking the two points near the 750k resistor on the control board keep the unit out of bypass mode in absence of a bypass switch?

No, only disabeling makeup gain. Without the switch connected (or a hardwire link substitution), the unit will NOT compress, as the control voltage from sidechain is interrupted between 'C' and pole of attack switch.

 

[frazzman]

don't seem to be getting anywhere..... so far my unit is nothing more than a glorified volume knob

The makeup gain is working but none of the other controls seem to be having any effect.

So the audio part is working and you have placed a link next to the 750k instead of switching this connection to 'off' when in bypass mode in order to disable makeup gain as well.

I just noticed some strange on my ratio switch.

My PCBs (from AudioKitchen) seem to be different to the PCB layout in Gyrafs PDF!!!!

The rotary switch i've used has no 'centre' pin so there is a section on the PCB where there is nothing soldered in the ratio section.

Your switch will have 1, 2 or 4 pole pins around its center, not dead center. For ratio setting in a standard GSSL all (4x3, 2x6 or 1x12) will work, with the turbo addon you'd need at least the 2nd pole. Probably nothing wrong with your build. Did you have a look at the schematic? From this standard 4x3 rotary switch there is only 1 section used (you abuse another unconnected pole with the turbo addon). The switch is built symetrical. Just watch out for placing the end-stop washer to pos.3 AFTER turning the switch full ccw.

Also - Gyrafs PDF shows 2x 27K resistors near the left and right VCA section, my board has 2x 15K resistors on the layout???

For balanced out operation the 2x 27k or 2x 15k should be double the value of the (15k on GSSL) feedback resistors between NE5532 pins 6/7, for unbalanced out operation use same value resistors.

Also - just a thought does linking the two points near the 750k resistor on the control board keep the unit out of bypass mode in absence of a bypass switch?

No, only disabeling makeup gain. Without the switch connected (or a hardwire link substitution), the unit will NOT compress, as the control voltage from sidechain is interrupted between 'C' and pole of attack switch.

Thanks a lot for your help Harpo! Much appreciated

Slowly getting there but still seems to be a case of one step forward, one step back!

I wired up the bypass with a 3PDT toggle switch as per the attached pic. It seems to be working, makeup gain is defeated when toggling the switch (I unlinked the two points near the 750k resistor on the control board).
Threshold is now working but seems to be acting as somewhat of a volume control (I didn't install the 47k resistor so it might be overly sensitive).
Rechecked all my XLR wiring and it seems to be OK.
Major issue is still that right channel is much lower in volume than the left and I don't think the ratio/attack/release rotary switches are really doing much... i.e. compression isn't working even though bypass seems to be.....

By the way, I am using THAT2180LB VCA's..... should I remove the 10K, 68R & 1M resistors from the VCA sections as per: http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml???

I've left them in but It looks like I don't need them

Will have to have another look with fresh eyes but can't see any problems at the moment

 

[MikeClev]

I found that my GSSL behaved like a volume control until I performed the changes here: http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml???

Especially the '100k ratio adjustment' resistor. This one isn't always straightforward, I put in a pair of pin sockets so I could try different resistors in there and in the end 100k was roughly right but only when I added another resistor in another spot. Read here for the details: http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=944.0 for more details on proper calibration and getting the right resistor value. My post is on the 10th page.

The compressor can actually over compress when this resistor and the others aren't the correct ones. This means you get instead of 2:1, 4:1 and 10:1 compression ratios, you might get 100:1 or even beyond infinity ratios, which means, for instance; for 10dB increase in input signal, you might get a 5 dB *reduction* in output level. 

 

[frazzman]

I found that my GSSL behaved like a volume control until I performed the changes here: http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml???

Especially the '100k ratio adjustment' resistor. This one isn't always straightforward, I put in a pair of pin sockets so I could try different resistors in there and in the end 100k was roughly right but only when I added another resistor in another spot. Read here for the details: http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=944.0 for more details on proper calibration and getting the right resistor value. My post is on the 10th page.

The compressor can actually over compress when this resistor and the others aren't the correct ones. This means you get instead of 2:1, 4:1 and 10:1 compression ratios, you might get 100:1 or even beyond infinity ratios, which means, for instance; for 10dB increase in input signal, you might get a 5 dB *reduction* in output level. 

Hey Mike, I think you pretty much summed up the issue i'm having, I noticed that when the threshold is almost fully left, there isn't enough make up gain to get the signal loud enough even though i can tell at low volume that the signal is totally squashed.

What VCA did you use and did you leave out the 68R, 3K9, 10K & 1M resistors?

 

[MikeClev]

I made the changes on the table on that diy.fischerworks website for my vcas, which were 2180B in the audio path and That2150A in the sidechain. If you look at page 10 of that thread I posted a link to I did a really in depth write up of how I experimented to find the values of resistors that worked for me. The vital change turned out to be increasing the 1k resistors feeding the control voltage to the audio vcas to 1.2k if I remember correctly. It will probably be different for yours! Read the other thread, its explained better there!

 

[Harpo]

I wired up the bypass with a 3PDT toggle switch as per the attached pic. It seems to be working, makeup gain is defeated when toggling the switch (I unlinked the two points near the 750k resistor on the control board).
Threshold is now working but seems to be acting as somewhat of a volume control (I didn't install the 47k resistor so it might be overly sensitive).
Rechecked all my XLR wiring and it seems to be OK.
Major issue is still that right channel is much lower in volume than the left and I don't think the ratio/attack/release rotary switches are really doing much... i.e. compression isn't working even though bypass seems to be.....

Your bypass toggle should work, though I'd do it a little different.
Assuming your L/R difference in level is 6dB and you already have double checked resistor values and excluded a broken opamp, there might be a short between riight channel NE5532 pins 1/2.

By the way, I am using THAT2180LB VCA's..... should I remove the 10K, 68R & 1M resistors from the VCA sections as per: http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml???

I've left them in but It looks like I don't need them

Easiest fix for ALL 3 of your THAT2180s is bending pin4 sideways, so they don't make contact to pcb.
Keeping them as is, at least get rid of both 68Rs in the DBX202c substitution circuit and the 47R connecting to pin4 at the sidechain VCA, or your compressor won't do much, as you already noticed. The 10Ks between VCAs pins3/5 for a different type of VCA, ment to reduce noise modulation, aren't needed as well. The 1Ms (in series with the 10Ks) between wiper connection of the -for THAT2180- left out thd adj.trimmer and pin4 is only connected to one side, so doing nothing, else use resistor values from THAT218x datasheet or Matt's page instead, depending on 218x-A/B/C grade.
You might read at least some pages from this thread. This has been covered to death.

 

[frazzman]

I wired up the bypass with a 3PDT toggle switch as per the attached pic. It seems to be working, makeup gain is defeated when toggling the switch (I unlinked the two points near the 750k resistor on the control board).
Threshold is now working but seems to be acting as somewhat of a volume control (I didn't install the 47k resistor so it might be overly sensitive).
Rechecked all my XLR wiring and it seems to be OK.
Major issue is still that right channel is much lower in volume than the left and I don't think the ratio/attack/release rotary switches are really doing much... i.e. compression isn't working even though bypass seems to be.....

Your bypass toggle should work, though I'd do it a little different.
Assuming your L/R difference in level is 6dB and you already have double checked resistor values and excluded a broken opamp, there might be a short between riight channel NE5532 pins 1/2.

By the way, I am using THAT2180LB VCA's..... should I remove the 10K, 68R & 1M resistors from the VCA sections as per: http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml???

I've left them in but It looks like I don't need them

Easiest fix for ALL 3 of your THAT2180s is bending pin4 sideways, so they don't make contact to pcb.
Keeping them as is, at least get rid of both 68Rs in the DBX202c substitution circuit and the 47R connecting to pin4 at the sidechain VCA, or your compressor won't do much, as you already noticed. The 10Ks between VCAs pins3/5 for a different type of VCA, ment to reduce noise modulation, aren't needed as well. The 1Ms (in series with the 10Ks) between wiper connection of the -for THAT2180- left out thd adj.trimmer and pin4 is only connected to one side, so doing nothing, else use resistor values from THAT218x datasheet or Matt's page instead, depending on 218x-A/B/C grade.
You might read at least some pages from this thread. This has been covered to death.

Thanks a lot Harpo, your help has been invaluable! Bending the pin4 on all the VCAs has certainly got the compressor reacting more like I would have expected. In future builds I will leave out the unneeded resistors.

I still have a major volume issue between the channels. Left channel is fine but right is very low (I would say more than 6db difference). I've checked all resistor values and gone over any shorts in the opamp sections with a multimeter in resistance mode... I thought I found a few and scraped out some solder but it hasn't made a difference.

I've tried swapping the NE5532 opamps around, and then the NE5534 opamps around to see if the issue follows the opamps but it still seems to stay in the right channel irrespective of the opamp change, therefore I don't suspect it to be the opamps.

Slowly running out of ideas but I'll keep looking...

 

[MeToo2]

Thanks a lot Harpo, your help has been invaluable! Bending the pin4 on all the VCAs has certainly got the compressor reacting more like I would have expected. In future builds I will leave out the unneeded resistors.

I still have a major volume issue between the channels. Left channel is fine but right is very low (I would say more than 6db difference). I've checked all resistor values and gone over any shorts in the opamp sections with a multimeter in resistance mode... I thought I found a few and scraped out some solder but it hasn't made a difference.

I've tried swapping the NE5532 opamps around, and then the NE5534 opamps around to see if the issue follows the opamps but it still seems to stay in the right channel irrespective of the opamp change, therefore I don't suspect it to be the opamps.

Slowly running out of ideas but I'll keep looking...

Would humbly suggest that you take a quantitative approach to fault finding, or it could be a long haul. Ideally you'd have a scope so you could measure phase, but otherwise a basic digital multimeter should do for this problem as it should be pretty obvious to isolate. Try tracing through the signal path whilst passing a fairly low frequency tone between 100Hz and 1KHz at around -10dBV = 0.316V rms (I suggest a relatively low frequency because some multimeters are not very good at measuring higher frequency AC)

Assuming you have your -10dBV test tone connected up, 0 compression, 0 make up gain.....
i.e. you should measure

1) between pins 2 & 3 of the input XLR: this should measure the same as your input test tone i.e. 0dB gain = -10dBV.
2) Pin 6 of the 5524 to ground (should be the same as your test tone i.e. 0dB gain = -10dBV).
3) Pin 1 of the 5532 to ground (should be down 6dB relative to the test tone = -16dBV).
4) Pin 7 of the 5532 to ground (should also be down 6dB relative to the test tone but opposite phase to above = -16dBV)
5) Pin 2 of the output XLR to ground (should be 6dB down relative to the test tone = -16dBV.)
6) Pin 3 of the output XLR to ground (should be 6dB down relative to the test tone but opposite in phase to above = -16dBV)
7) Between pins 2-3 of the output XLR (should be the same as your test tone = 0dB down on the input = -10dBV)

At least then you should be able to narrow down where to look (between the last good reading and the first bad one)

 

[frazzman]

Thank you so much guys for your help!!!

After hours of troubleshooting... common sense finally prevailed and I found that one of the inputs on my convertor that I was using to hook up the right channel is not working properly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hooked it all up again and used a different combination of input & outputs.... worked straight away... and sounds amazing!!!!

The damn thing was working from the start... thanks again for your help! Especially Harpo and Metoo for pointing me in the right direction.

 

[mingus]

Here is my revised secondary winds.

does it matter what voltages go on one side or the other side?

center taps get wired together and put into the center tap input right?

thanks allot...cant wait!

Hi all, I have the same parts as Somsay. Did this wiring work for you? I´m pretty new to DIY stuff and can´t find any "no brain" explanation on how to do the psu/power wiring.
Help....

M

 

[Harpo]

Hi all, I have the same parts as Somsay. Did this wiring work for you? I´m pretty new to DIY stuff and can´t find any "no brain" explanation on how to do the psu/power wiring.
Help....

Depending on location (please update your profile) and with correct fuse fitted in the fuse holder, for 115V AC mains probably yes, for 230V AC mains definitly NO.
Always switch your brain for activated mode when wiring AC mains.

http://www.amveco.com/Miniature_Low_Profile_Transformers_2.htm

 

[pietro_moog]

hi guys.

what's the use of those 100n caps on ins and out?
they looks totally useless to me, considering modern electrolytic caps in parallel

 

[mingus]

Hi all, I have the same parts as Somsay. Did this wiring work for you? I´m pretty new to DIY stuff and can´t find any "no brain" explanation on how to do the psu/power wiring.
Help....

Depending on location (please update your profile) and with correct fuse fitted in the fuse holder, for 115V AC mains probably yes, for 230V AC mains definitly NO.
Always switch your brain for activated mode when wiring AC mains.

http://www.amveco.com/Miniature_Low_Profile_Transformers_2.htm

Thanks for your quick reply there! And sorry for not having updated my profile, I´m pretty new on the forum thing.
230V is the thing for me, so I´m very happy I didn´t try it the way Somsay did now..

Thanks for the link to, I´ve already seen it, but still a bit uncertain (you know the feeling when you want to be 110% sure how it´s done).
Would be nice to know "the red goes to.. and the black goes..." etc

Sorry, just a bit new to this!

Thanks

m