GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[dipfrik]

So after i found out, that i missed a jumper i have now different values. (see attached screen)

It looks thats my faulty -15 are now ok, but my positive voltages are now completely "lost".

Did i tell you, that i can hear ARD-Info Radio right now through the powered unit?
Nothing at all on the output in bypass, except now radio

Thanks, Sven

 

[dipfrik]

Ok, strange things happend

I i turn the unit on = nothing (no led e.g.) but radio *g
If turn the off/on again = everything is fine and working (led, voltages and so on)

I think i read about this behaviour in this thread a few days ago?

Cheers, Sven

 

[Gustav]

Ok, strange things happend

I i turn the unit on = nothing (no led e.g.) but radio *g
If turn the off/on again = everything is fine and working (led, voltages and so on)

I think i read about this behaviour in this thread a few days ago?

Cheers, Sven

Latching regulator.

It has been covered numerous times, and a search should come up with a solution.

Gustav

 

[dipfrik]

Thanks Gustav! I read it last night several times

Cheers, Sven

 

[John Isaac]

Hi again. I have another transformer problem. I threw this DPST power switch with a build in BULB: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/MS-101135.pdf in between my transformer and IEC connector (with built in fuse). The switch was properly working (light turns on and off) but I was not getting any output from my secondaries anymore. I couldn't figure out why, so I removed the switch and ran the transformer straight off the IEC connector but I'm STILL not getting any voltage out of my secondaries!

I have 115v in the wall outlet, 115v on the IEC pins, the fuse is healthy, but still nothing off the secondaries! Is it possible that my transformer died? How would the switch have killed it?

Please help someone, before I pull the rest of my hair out

 

[Harpo]

.. but I was not getting any output from my secondaries anymore. I couldn't figure out why, so I removed the switch and ran the transformer straight off the IEC connector but I'm STILL not getting any voltage out of my secondaries!

I have 115v in the wall outlet, 115v on the IEC pins, the fuse is healthy...

IEC-L to switch-1a,
IEC-N to switch-3b.
Switch-2a to 1st.joined (black+violet) wires of your -for 115VAC- parallel connected primary windings of your Amveco transformer,
switch-2b to remaining joined (red+yellow) wires of your primary winding wires.
Pull out the fuse, double check fuse for close to/dead zero resistance between its endcaps in your multimeters [ohm] setting and if still alife push it back in, else (infinite resistance from blown fuse) replace with properly rated fuse with slow blow fusing characteristic.

 

[John Isaac]

IEC-L to switch-1a,
IEC-N to switch-3b.
Switch-2a to 1st.joined (black+violet) wires of your -for 115VAC- parallel connected primary windings of your Amveco transformer,
switch-2b to remaining joined (red+yellow) wires of your primary winding wires.
Pull out the fuse, double check fuse for close to/dead zero resistance between its endcaps in your multimeters [ohm] setting and if still alife push it back in, else (infinite resistance from blown fuse) replace with properly rated fuse with slow blow fusing characteristic.

I hooked up the switch as you stated and as the schematic suggested and the switch worked fine, but I didn't get any output on the secondaries. I took the switch out the signal path and ran the transformer directly off the IEC but I still have no secondary voltages. Is it possible that the switch may have shorted the neutral and live wires and killed the transformer?

The fuses are 1/2 Amp, 250v slow blow fuses. I measured several of them at about 1/2 Ohm.

When I hook up the primaries directly to the IEC inlet I get a healthy 117v on the wires and IEC pins:

BUT when I measure the output on the secondaries I get 20-30mV. Millivolts!

Notice the meter reads mV's not Volts:

The only strange thing about the transformer that I can tell is the secondaries won't solder together well. After my failed power switch hookup attempt, I cut the wire back a bit and tried to solder them together but with little success. I even tried a little flux, but the wire just won't take. I also noticed that the wire look slightly darker/browner than they were further up the leads (the sections of lead that I cut off).

I'm starting to conclude that the transformer/or secondary leads are fried. I can trace healthy voltages up to the actually winding off the transformer, but I get no voltage coming out of the transformer. Since they were fine yesterday and they're not today, I'm not sure how they would have died. Does anyone have any idea why I'm getting next to no output from my secondaries?

 

[Harpo]

I'm starting to conclude that the transformer/or secondary leads are fried.

;D the insulation of the wires does its job.
When you clip the croko to the copper lead ends and not to the insulation, it will work.

 

[John Isaac]

;D the insulation of the wires does its job.
When you clip the croko to the copper lead ends and not to the insulation, it will work.

When I clip the croko? What do you mean? What is the croko?

 

[Harpo]

;D the insulation of the wires does its job.
When you clip the croko to the copper lead ends and not to the insulation, it will work.

When I clip the croko? What do you mean? What is the croko?

from your pic move it 5mm to the right side, so it gets in touch with the conducting copper. Actually the croko clips to the wire insulation.

 

[Gustav]

;D the insulation of the wires does its job.
When you clip the croko to the copper lead ends and not to the insulation, it will work.

When I clip the croko? What do you mean? What is the croko?

from your pic move it 5mm to the right side, so it gets in touch with the conducting copper. Actually the croko clips to the wire insulation.

I would assume he is just using the clip to hold the wires in place/together, since they wont solder...

This

"The only strange thing about the transformer that I can tell is the secondaries won't solder together well. After my failed power switch hookup attempt, I cut the wire back a bit and tried to solder them together but with little success."

Is probably the cause of the problem.

You have to scrape off the "plastic" coating on the wires - it is only exposed at the tips (on any transformers I have seen at least), and you indicate you have cut those off.

Not sure what it is made of, actually - but it can be a little hard to get rid of it.

Gustav

 

[Neko Neko]

Hello

Looking forward to finishing my GSSL. I have some nice edge meters which are 500uA. The meter sensitivity resister should be 4k or 1k for 500uA?

Thanks

 

[gyraf]

4K for 500uA, 20dB gain reduction full-scale. Or 2K for 10dB gain reduction full-scale (which may be more useful).


Jakob E.

 

[Neko Neko]

Thanks Jakob think I will stick with 10dB scale. Excellent project by the way

 

[mats-odm]

This

"The only strange thing about the transformer that I can tell is the secondaries won't solder together well. After my failed power switch hookup attempt, I cut the wire back a bit and tried to solder them together but with little success."

Is probably the cause of the problem.

You have to scrape off the "plastic" coating on the wires - it is only exposed at the tips (on any transformers I have seen at least), and you indicate you have cut those off.

Not sure what it is made of, actually - but it can be a little hard to get rid of it.

Gustav

Yep I've had this problem (on another project), went so far as I started to unwind the transformer to try and find what was wrong
There is varnish (? lacquer) on the copper wire under the "normal" insulation and it's practically invisible, had to use fine sand paper to get it off.

 

[replicant]

Hi, I'm selecting a power transformer for my GSSL (first build). It's between these two.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPT30-830/?qs=wkKrz7WmEgNXIHrxEqIP6Q%3d%3d

http://www.parts-express.com/avel-y236103-30va-15v-15v-toroidal-transformer--122-605

I think either of these would be fine, but could someone at least give these the GDIY thumbs up for having the correct specs?

FWIW, I used to pay close attention when my tech was modding the pro compressors I used to own (Millennia, Crane Song, Inward Connections Vac Rac, Fearn, etc..). I sold them all when the economy tanked, and now I plan to rebuild the minions myself, starting with this GSSL. Thanks!

 

[Harpo]

@replicant, both will work for the GSSL and the common addons and for most parts of the world, whereever you might be located (please update your profile).

 

[replicant]

Thanks Harpo! I'm gonna build my first one with no super sidechain, but with turbo. I already ordered a case from Dan, and I've been modifying the Mouser BOM to fit my build. Now I'm trying to decide on which VCA I want to use, vintage DBX, or which THAT (?), etc...

I also might get a VU meter board, so I can use a VU meter. If I build the compressor in permanent turbo mode, I can use the turbo cutout hole on the front panel for a 3-way toggle switch, for the VU meter. Now I'm reading about different DPDT switches, On-On-On, On (Off) On, etc... that is pretty confusing, so far.

 

[Harpo]

..I can use the turbo cutout hole on the front panel for a 3-way toggle switch, for the VU meter...

Dunno of any On-On-On toggle where you could directly connect to 3 (or 5) different sources, FI GR/Left-out/Right-out or whatever permutation of left/right/input/output/gainreduction. This would require additional logic that controls some relays or CMOS switches for selecting the wanted source. Using a rotary switch instead, as shown in expats build manual, is much more simple if you -for whatever reason- additionally want to monitor a single side of the audio program thru your VU-meter. Your DAW will show this more precisely at nada cost. YMMV.

 

[replicant]

..I can use the turbo cutout hole on the front panel for a 3-way toggle switch, for the VU meter...

Dunno of any On-On-On toggle where you could directly connect to 3 (or 5) different sources, FI GR/Left-out/Right-out or whatever permutation of left/right/input/output/gainreduction. This would require additional logic that controls some relays or CMOS switches for selecting the wanted source. Using a rotary switch instead, as shown in expats build manual, is much more simple if you -for whatever reason- additionally want to monitor a single side of the audio program thru your VU-meter. Your DAW will show this more precisely at nada cost. YMMV.

I must have missed the part about using a rotary switch in the expat audio vu meter build manual. I will look over it again. Thanks.

The reason I thought of a toggle switch is because the panel cutout for turbo is a small hole, same as the bypass switch. Dan says I should just keep it simple for my first build, so maybe I'll just forget about the i/o levels and put the turbo switch there.