GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[dukasound]

Hi Jakob and others
Before I make front panel for my GSSL tell me what value is for Threshold: -20db to +20db or -15db to +15db (like on original)
and value for Make-up: 0db to 20db or -5db to +15db (like on original).
Thanks
Duka

 

[ReggieReddog]

[quote author="drpat"][quote author="ReggieReddog"]
And on the subject of switches, which way do the darn things go in there?

Don't flame?[/quote]


I think this has already been covered, but you can mount the switches either way.
[/quote]


K thanks. I was afraid the switch would work backwards from what my panel will say if I don't get the 2 pins in the correct 2 holes. I'm still stuck on the power switch. Because I am too dumb for this.

 

[radiance]

[quote author="ReggieReddog"][quote author="drpat"][quote author="ReggieReddog"]
And on the subject of switches, which way do the darn things go in there?

Don't flame?[/quote]


I think this has already been covered, but you can mount the switches either way.
[/quote]


K thanks. I was afraid the switch would work backwards from what my panel will say if I don't get the 2 pins in the correct 2 holes. I'm still stuck on the power switch. Because I am too dumb for this.[/quote]

It's always best to first make "whatever you're building" work, and THEN design the frontpanel.

 

[drpat]

...

 

[ReggieReddog]

I haven't had the front panel cut yet, but I'm just saying it will be goofy if I have to design the front panel backwards because of my poor understanding of switch mechanics.


And yes, I'm afraid the switches have D shafts, which I would prefer except that it looks like at least one of them will have to be pointing a little goofy.
I guess I could just design the release settings sideways on the panel......and in backwards order unless I guess the correct way to put it in there......or something. Or maybe I should just leave my front panel blank so it doesn't look like a mistake, and I'll just memorize what does what.

Have I apologized for being a nuisance to this wonderful community yet?
Apologies,

Reggie

PS: :idea: Hey, let's say that I'm a female, like that other reggie on this board. Does that get me more help?

 

[drpat]

...

 

[dirk666]

How many VA is a good idea for this compressors transformer? Or is the straight amp rating more relevant?

I put a PCB mount 2x 0-18V .138A with 2.5VA in my first unit. (it runs a little hot, 15V would have been smarter)

But for my next one i'd like to use a toriod and they all seem to come with a much higher rating. 15VA being the smallest.
So is there a formulla for working out what the min requirement is?
That way I would actually learn something. Ace.



(also the 18V sticks up to high, gonna hafta make a bonnet scoop in the case
:thumb: )

 

[dukasound]

Hi
I saw on schematic one note about changing 15K if we use GSSL unbalanced.
In case if I would use in stereo insert, must I change 15K to 27K?
Thanks
Duka

 

[Greg]

hi Reggie:

I got your PM and I will try and help you out.

Wiring the IEC and toriod:
It's kind of pointless to wire in a power switch if you don't have the front panel. So let's just leave this out for now until get power to the main PCB. First do what cannikin said about wiring the toroid. Now, on the IEC. At the top (the one in middle) is the GND. That wires to your chassis. Then there are two more contacts. One has an N by it, so that's the neutral. The other is the hot (ie 115VAC). For the primary, I think red and yellow go to the hot and purple and black to the nuetral, but double check this on the data sheet. For the secondaries, red and brown is the center tap, and that goes the middle point on the PCB, the green and blue go to the two other points (doesn't matter which one goes where). This will give you the AC voltage you need for the PSU.

Here's what I do for the switches:
Put them in so the round part of the D-shaft is pointing towards the bottom part of the daughter PCB. I use knobs made to fit a round shaft, so as long as the round part is facing downward, I can orient the knob so the set screw with hit the round part of the knob.

For the 5-pin connectors, I just use a Dremel and grind off the edge of the plastic until it fits. As long as the pins aren't damaged, it'll work fine.

Regarding test points, when you first power up the GSSL, make sure none of the ICs are in. Then look at the data sheet and it will tell you which pins are the rails. You can test your +/-15VDC and +/-12VDC.

 

[ReggieReddog]

Thanks, you guys are priceless. I think I'm with you pretty much.
IEC: check.
Toroid: check. (I assume you are refering to using the section at the top of board when you were talking about hooking the secondaries, rather than the original section for the on-board trans. I never woulda guessed that the other 2 secondary wires could hook up either way :? )
Switches: Check. (I think...)
5-pin: Check. Good idear. (Don't have a Dremel, but I just sawed the 16-pins in half with a hacksaw so I'll manage a way.)
Test points: Uhhh, I'll do some research on what rails are; but at least I can say I knew to leave the IC's out whilst testing!

Now here's a dumb question for you: Where is the actual PCB circuit grounded to the chassis? I know there is the ground loop that connects some stuff on the board to ground, but I can't figure out where it actually is grounded. I mean, the IEC is grounded to the chassis, and I think the XLR input jacks are grounded directly to the chassis; but I don't see how the board is grounded. I would think it would be at the screws that connect it to the chassis, but apparently I'm supposed to use non-conductive washers to prevent this.
Am I so clueless that I'm going to electrocutionate myself?
I'm real close to "getting it." I can almost feel it.

Edit: I think I figured out how the on/off switch is wired, so:
Power switch: Check

 

[drpat]

...

 

[drpat]

...

 

[dirk666]

hey!
Was just cleaning up some papars lying around and found a proper schematic for the Gssl. And built the damn thing with only the layout pdf? So were did this come from? The top of the print-out didntnt come through so its not a complete one.
Can someone point me in the right direction?

Just as well nothing went to wrong with my first build but would be nice to have the proper schm to work off in future.

Cheers
Scott

 

[gyraf]

I Don't understand your question, Scott?

 

[chrissugar]

Scott,

You have all you need in one place at Jakob's site, schematic, gerbers, PDFs, description, datasheets:

http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/ssl/ssl_sch.gif
http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/ssl/ssl.pdf
http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/ssl/SSL.zip
http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/ssl/ssl_complist.htm

Jakob done an extremely good job.
What else do you need? :?

chrissugar

 

[dirk666]

Yeah that was a bit of a ramble sorry. Long story short, for some reason I never relised there was a proper schematic for the gssl compressor and built it off of the layout diagram. No questions, no problems. As you were

 

[martthie_08]

hey can anyone help me on this, I would like to have a 6.3V Pilot Light instead of the power status led on my gssl and I am not quite sure on how to hook it up.

possibility #1:
get an extra transformer 230V prim / 6V sec

possibility #2:
no extra tranny, take one of the 15V secondaries of existing power trafo and wire a resistor in series with the lamp. The lamp I have around here says it will consume 180mA. Any suggestions?
How do I calculate the correct value for the resistor, is it R = (15V-6V)/0,18A - I have a feeling this is not the way to go, especially since I will be using one of the secondary windings more than the other... any help really appreciated!

 

[gyraf]

is it R = (15V-6V)/0,18A

Yes. 50 Ohms calculated. You may want to run the lamp at under-voltage to prolong life - in that case make the resistor 68R or even 100R. make sure to properly calculate power dissipation and size the resistor for this!

And make sure that your power transformer has the needed 180mA to spare for the light..

Jakob E.

 

[martthie_08]

Thanks Jakob! I will try a 56R / 5 watts, that should give around 5 volts to the lamp (power dissipation will be around 1.8 watts for that resistor, according to my calculations).

 

[ReggieReddog]

[quote author="dirk666"]Yeah that was a bit of a ramble sorry. Long story short, for some reason I never relised there was a proper schematic for the gssl compressor and built it off of the layout diagram. No questions, no problems. As you were[/quote]


Well I can't even read a schematic (or at least not very well), so at least you're ahead of me. :green: I'm building mine off the layout diagram mainly. Waiting on THATs (ordered 2 weeks ago from Blacklion), chassis, and figuring out drilling on front and back. Found a place in Kansas that sells a cheap 24mm chassis punch (SESCOM), but man they are hard to deal with.

Maybe someday as a way to contribute to the community, I will try to put together a GSSL For Dummies guide so even novices can build one.