GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

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Very often you need a bit of load for the 78/79xx regulators to act. Try putting in the 5532's and 5534's for load - they will survive up to +/-22.5V. If still -20V, change 7915.

Jakob E.
 
Sorry- have not seen this asked yet...so i kind of fear it might be a dumb question, but....
In the original schematic (Thanks Jakob!)and on the GSSL board itself (Thanks Gustav!) i see 2
larger caps in PSU section as 1000/35 value.
On the parts list i used (Thanks, Greg!) i don't see these listed,
the closest i have are values 1000u/63v.
Are these the 2 i am to use in this position?
Something to do with 115 vrs 220 perhaps?

a Canadian Question
:green:
 
Hello, I'm new here and just constructed the ssl compressor. It works and sound beautiful, but my one question is: how do I calibrate the output on it? It seems to be about 3db hotter than the signal going in. It would be great if in bypass it was the same as the input level.
Thanks.
-brian
 
Hi Brian,

Welcome to "The Lab"..!

Look through the ssl-clone meta (you can use the link .:Meta-Meta:. at the top of every page here to get there) - we've discussed this several times. It has to do with running the unit balanced or unbalanced - and involves changing some 15K resistors to 27K.

Jakob E.
 
Hi everyone

I'm back with another simple power transformer question. (thanks Jakob for helping out with the last one) :grin:

I went with a toroid for the gssl (jaycar MT2086 15+15 20VA), and i have had a quick look at some of the other threads on this, but i wasn't too sure of what the conclusion of those threads were.

So far: 2 x orange wires - go to iec inlet (cool got that)

Purple: to go to pcb
White and Yellow: wired together to pcb(centre)
Red: to go to pcb

is this right? or should it be?

Purple: to go to pcb
Red and white: wired together to pcb(centre)
Yellow: to go to pcb

I'm sorry if there was a simple answer that i missed somewhere, and if someone could point me in the right direction, that would be great.

Cheers

Steve
 
Oops sorry everyone,

I think i've just figured it out. I found that .gif file about the tranformers, and that explained everything. :oops:

I had wired to the two 0v wires together, which is wrong, but i'll go and sort that out now.

dont mind me.........., but thanks anyway :thumb:

Steve
 
After posting my own answer about wiring the transformer I found this perfect explanation from Mark Burnley hosted at Kev's DIY Factory. Number 3 shows the correct wiring of secondary windings for the SSL.

The same information is also referenced in the meta, proving that even when you're answering a question you should do a search first :oops:
 
Hey guys,
Been lurking around here for a while and was enticed into starting on the GSSL project even though I don't know jack about electronics and can barely solder. I have absorbed as much from this site the the Gyraf site as I can handle, but some things go over my head. I managed to get the PCBs stuffed for the most part, but I am hung up about a few things. I think they have been explained before, but I am too dense to comprehend; so dumb it down for me. :oops:
Here is the data on the toroidal transformer I have: Amveco62063http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Amv...Series Low Profile Miniature Transformers.pdf Wiring for USA voltage. Now I think I solder the yellow and the red together or maybe solder them to the PCB in like the middle 2 holes on the right side of the transfmr section. Then maybe I connect the....OK I have no clue. Everyone seems to do it differently and there are two possible sections to connect to in the first place. :sad: I'm also bound to hook up the IEC plug-in wrong, so I would appreciate some guidance there as well. And where the board is silkscreened +15V above -15V, are just normal jumpers supposed to go there or is that just a test point or what?

On a related note: how does the on/off switch hook in there? Does an extra wire off the transformer go to it or does it hook to the plug-in somehow?

And on the subject of switches, which way do the darn things go in there? The ratio and the attack switchers seem to go in right side up (turning the knob to 1, 2, 3, etc is about where it should be), but the PCB holes for the RELEASE switch are flipped around and I'm not sure which way to mount the switch. There are only two choices I guess, but it would be nice to know the right one without soldering it all up wrong first.

One last minor thing before I quit bugging, I can't squeeze in the 5-pin terminals that go the XLRs without unsoldering some stuff. Should I just forget them and solder direct to the board, or will that be a regrettable decision?

Soooo sorry, but I would really like to make this work despite my own stoopididy. Appreciate any help, and thanks for all the info that has been provided already. If it helps, I used this parts list: http://members.cox.net/capstanrecording/SSLCloneParts.pdf (thx greg) Dang already
Don't flame?
 
Don't solder the Red and yellow wires to the PCB!!

There a couple of things to think about first:

How to connect the IEC socket to a FUSE & On/Off switch then your Amveco Power transformer?

Primary: (the ones with Yellow Tubing around them)
Twist & solder the Yellow and RED wires together.
Twist & Solder the Black and Purple wires together.

Secondary:
Twist and Solder RED and Brown together.
Green
Blue

That will start you off.. I have to go to sleep now..
PM me if you have more questions.
 
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