GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

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Found some 50v 3.3pf Ceramic disc caps:

http://www.opamp-electronics.com/~opamp/catalog/index.php?cPath=21_37&sort=4a&page=5

Will they work for the 3.3pf caps on the 9k project? :roll:

Todd
 
I'm looking for a single inline ribbon cable(10 in total) and connector to join the main and control board PCB's for the G-SSL. Unfortunately, I've only been able to find the dual pins (20 in total). Does anyone have a part number or know where I can locate in the US or Canada?

Thanks.
Siegfried
 
After hooking up my trafo, i got a nice 12.1 v/ - 12.0 v and a nice 15.1 V however the - 15 volt was -16,8 V !!!

Now i already replaced the 7915 for 3 times now but the value stays about the same. When i measure after the bridge rect. i get on both sides 26,3 Volts. I dont get it , CAn the 1000Uf cuase this? its the only thing between the 7915 and the bridge.

Or is my input voltage way too high for the 7915, i bought a 2 x 18 V wich when i measured gave me 2 x 20 Volts

Any one??

I did measure this without any ic in the circuits, that doesnt matter right?
 
Thanks that made the difference!!!!!

i have put the ic ;s in and voila there was my -14.9 V. Hooked everything up and audio is passing, not sure if all is working like it should be but i have to listen on speakers later, i am now on headphones!

only a litlle itchy hum is in the back but i did not connect any earth to the board yet so it will go away...

Going back for testing. THANKS AGAIN!!!
 
I can't seem to find anyone that is selling the Beh*inger meter. Does anyone have any they are selling? DBM Pro Audio doesn't seem to be replying to any emails.

Also, anyone know of a ribbon cable and connector I can use for the G-SSL?

Thanks,
Siegfried
 
Hey Siegfried,
Just try to call them if you can...

As for the ribbon cable, I just bought some Molex and wired it myself. Work out pretty well. Specially for removing the control board for checking for problems.
take care
Gil
 
I'm sorry to jump to the end but this thing is looooooooooooong.

Is there a US parts list yet & who has the PCB's in stock now?

Are there any differences in the PCB's offered? I noticed a few guys are making them.


Thanks, Kevin
 
Check the SSL Meta... there's a direct link to a parts list in the US. And all the boards are the same, as far as I know. I've built from the Chef's as well as Gustav's.
 
Hey Kevin,
I have a parts list laying around, but I used some pretty fancy switches and stuff. change it to your liking. Just PM or email me.
gilparente AT yahoo DOT com.

Check this thread for pcbs
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=10776

happy diy
 
Hi Guys, Newbie alert :oops:

I'm just trying to put an order together for a GSSL clone.

Can you answer a few questions?

1. Which THAT2180 should I get? Are they all compatible?
https://www.profusionplc.com/product-frame.htm I assume the LC version is OK?

2. Which NE5534 ? there are no AN's available?
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/searchPage2.jsp?Ntt=NE5534&newSearch=true&Nto=sifam+meter&Nty=1&showImages=true&N=401&Ntk=gensearch#results

3. Is this the right meter? Does it fit in a 1U 19" rack case?
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=969746&N=401

Also is there a up to date UK or Europe BOM as the one I tried to use (Rapid SSL) has a lot of parts missing due to changing stock codes?

I would like to know what you recommend for a 1U rack case as well?

Sorry for being a pain :green:
 
1) I took the THAT2180LB and it works very well for me. It's pre trimmed so you don't need a distortion meter to set it up. The THAT2180LA has better specs but is also more expensive. The THAT2181LA /B/C are user trimmable and have even better specs than the pre trimmed versions.

2)the NE5534AP will do....

3)I think it does. You can find the exact measures in the data sheet.
 
Sorry guys....I just posted this in "The Lab" without even thinking to ask in here....

Here is my issue....my SSL powers up, passes audio, the makeup gain works, and the bypass is defeating the make up....things are looking good. BUT, all of the other functions don't work, and neither does the meter!

On the layout I was confused with the bypass switch and there are two wires that go to A and A2 on the bypass switch. On the board it looks like I'm supposed to place a jumper between these two connections, but I was confused so I didn't do it.

Could this be the issue? Should I connect a jumper? Did I place my rotary switches in backward or something?
 
I'm going to use several led's to light my meter and also as the power on indicator-
I assume I can pull them all off the feed for the pilot led on the daughter board-

BUT- do I wire them in series, or parallel, between the two PC points?
AND would any extra resistors, etc. be needed to be inserted in the circuit?

(Sorry if this is a stupid question- I'm more of a solder jockey than an electronic theorist...)
 
you will add up the forward drop voltages of the LED if you use them in series.

they each chew arounf 1 ½ volts a piece, so you need to limit your
series string to 12 / 1.5 then subtract one LEED so you can replace it
with a series limiting resostor, which will chew up some amount of
volts deoending on which led you use and how much current you
feed it.

my inglsh ok?
 

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